This is a new five-star hotel just in front of the cathedral and the Giralda. It's super-modern and it has some great stuff inside it, such as a Japanese restaurant, Spanish modern food, a cocktail bar, rooftop terrace with insane views, spa massage facilities, and great service.

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This is a personal collection of some of my favourite restaurants and tapa bars in Seville.

azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletapas/

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A wonderful little neighbourhood with two churches and the same number of bars - of course.

Hidden away on the edge of Macarena, it is a delight and I defy you to find a better or friendlier bar in all of Seville.

There is nothing here but real Sevilla, peaceful at times, happy at all times, and clean!

Macarena, off Calle Castellar.

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A fantastic tapas bar on (surprise-surprise) Alfalfa. Great Italian-style tapas, great wine, great service, laid-back and good music. Amazingly good value for money.

Also appears to have a slightly unusual resident transvestite.

Don't go for pudding at Tuereg over the road - it's dreadful!

Calle Alfalfa, 6

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Both Alfalfa and Alameda are the hub of Seville´s nightlife. Alfalfa is a narrow street chock-a-block with bars and cheap tapas places. It kicks off about 11 o´clock at night and is stuffed with natives and foreigners alike. Bar Robotica is worth a view if only for the comic-book wallpaper and litre-sized drinks, and Bar Berlin is guaranteed to be open until the wee hours. Look out for the old man with a multi-coloured afro and a battered pair of rollerskates.

Alameda, despite the fact it is currently being reconstructed into what can only be described as a giant sand-pit, is still fun, lively and slightly more bohemian. In particular check out Cafe Central, one of the most popular joints, with the punters spilling out on the side walk, and the odd spontaneous flamenco clapping. The majority of punters there are local Sevillianas, and are all too happy to take the hapless foreigner under their wing, and direct them to the next venue. Don't expect to be in bed before 7 o'clock the following morning though!

Both areas are in the centre. Alfalfa is no more than 5 minutes’ walk from the cathedral, and Alameda is about 5-10 minutes’ walk north from there. Cafe Central is in the top left hand corner of the square. The subway is still in the process of being built, however any local or taxi driver would be able to point you in the right direction.

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A great place to get a cheap bite to eat. With a great selection of montaditos and a fair selection of cold tapas as well, it's a lively venue that always reminds me of an old municipal swimming pool. The main seating area is a series of tiled banks beyond the bar. It's very noisy but that's half the fun. If you're feeling greedy head down the road a few doors to the bar with the Chocolate y Churros sign hanging outside. The churros there are as good as you'll get in Seville and the background din of gossiping local senoras is the perfect accompaniment to the stodgy churros and thick, rich chocolate.

c/ San Eloy 9;
www.sevilla5.com/eat-drink/saneloy.html

9 San Eloy

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The world has been cursed with Irish pubs; miniature, unpleasant, tacky theme parks that recall an Ireland that probably never existed. If that's what you're looking for then you'll find them elsewhere in Seville, but the Merchants is nothing of the sort. Slightly off the beaten track, though still only a two minute walk from the centre, it manages to be as much a haven for locals as it is a home for ex-pats and cheap flight weekenders. Spacious and roomy, with free wifi, good music and ridiculously generous helpings of high quality food, it's everything most Irish pubs aren't. If you want to watch the football or have somewhere you can actually sit down and drink (the Spanish are much happier standing than the British) without feeling like you're still at home then the Merchants is the place to go.

C/ Canalejas 12; tel: 954 214 500;
www.merchantpub.com

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An incredibly popular tapas bar on the edge of the Santa Cruz district, Las Coloniales is one of the best and cheapest places to eat in Seville. When you arrive you have to write your name and the number in your party on a small blackboard and your name is called when a table is free. It's located on the edge of the leafy (for Seville) Plaza Cristo de Burgos, which is handy as you have somewhere shady to sit whilst you wait. The food is uniformly good and the tapas sizes are exceptional for the price. Two people can have a decent meal with a couple of drinks for little over ten euros. One of the best things on the menu are the quail eggs and chorizo on fried bread, which is like a sausage and egg sarnie in the sun. You can't go wrong with the staples either. The Solomillo al Whisky is as good as you can get in Seville. On Sunday afternoons the plaza is full of Spanish families eating ice cream from the Heladeria across the road. Seville is full of Heladerias and though this one is probably the most expensive it's also the best.

Plaza Cristo de Burgos, 19 - east of the main El Corte Ingles, just past Plaze de Encarnacion.

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For those of you travelling to the heart of Andalucia to sample something with a little more local flavour than an Irish pub, Bar Perejil is quintessentially Sevillano. It is owned by the former flamenco singer Pepe Perejil and photographs and mementos from his illustrious career adorn the walls. The man himself is quite a character and will often treat his customers to an impromptu burst of his still-incredible voice, particularly when accompanied by one of the many guitarists that stop by to have a casual jam Sevillanas-style. To complete the experience, go for the vino dulce or fino on tap - they go down worryingly easily but don't worry as Pepe will keep a chalk tally on the bar of how many you've had.

Plaza Padre Jerónimo de Córdoba; tel: 954 229 385

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Mercado de Triana, over the river great little market in what was once the poor gypsy quarter of the city. You can pick up lush fruit and stop for a little pick me up at one of the small stall bars.

In Triana itself, there are plenty of good untouristy good tapas bars where you can pick gambas al pil pil etc. And you can wind your way back via a few of the little bars that line the banks of the river Guadalquivir.

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Behold Merchant's pub in Sevilla. A two-storey bar that is both relaxed, charming, and definitely the best place to while away your Sunday watching La Liga and the premiership. There is a lively ex-pat community that frequents the bar with other regulars including locals who love to chat and sing and dance with the best of us. There is a nurturing spirit within the walls of Merchant's, it's wooden décor and snugs make you feel all cosy and at home, and with friendly bar staff who genuinely enjoy their work, you could find yourself nipping in for a quick “pinta” and not leaving until the early hours having had a brilliant evening, having hardly dinted your Euro holdings, and having made some great friends.

C/ Canalejas 12; tel: 954 214 500;
www.merchantpub.com

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For the last 7 years I have been going, every Thursday night, and sometimes other nights too, to Las Columnas-Bodega Santa Cruz on Mateos Gago street. It is a real, authentic, traditional tapas bar. Always busy and bustling. The food is good, the staff very friendly and there's nothing better than standing at one of the tables outside and gazing up at the beautiful Giralda tower at the end of the road while sipping an ice cold beer and eating one of the many tapas available.

C/Rodrigo Caro 1

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Very friendly gay bar in La Alameda. Very good ambience with a large outdoor seating area. Good beers and cocktails. Go on a Saturday night in the summer when the young Sevillians spill out into the promenade with their drinks and tapas until dawn!

La Alameda on Calle Arias Montano 3.

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An Irish pub in a very Spanish townhouse, popular with locals but with quite an international feel about it (when we went the bar staff consisted of a Swede, an English girl and even an Irishman!) You can tire of the ubiquitous tapas, even in its native city, so might enjoy a more substantial bar meal (the wraps are good) washed down with a pint of Guinness or, as the name suggests a good selection of Irish malts. There’s also a pool table upstairs and a big screen, in case there’s a match you just can’t miss.

Calle Canalejas 12, between the shopping centre and the river.

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Merchant's makes a refreshing change from your usual pitch black Irish pubs filled with knick-knacks and kettles on the walls. Surprisingly luminous and with a friendly, international staff, Merchant's is one of Seville's most popular bars. Offering a menu that is a joy to work your way through as well as a fine selection of ales and specialist whiskeys. Populated by interesting characters, Merchant's is an ideal choice for sporting events or a fine pint.

C/ Canalejas 12; tel: 954 214 500;
www.merchantpub.com

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Although Irish owned it's nothing like the typical Irish pubs you'll often find on your travels. With friendly bilingual staff and a mainly local clientele the atmosphere, whilst differing from that of a traditional Seville bar, is welcoming and hospitable. Excellent food ranging from local dishes to a wide selection of international meals. Also serves an excellent pint and has a huge choice of whiskies. Right in the centre of the city.

C/ Canalejas 12; tel: 954 214 500;
www.merchantpub.com

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This is a restaurant with a modern take on Spanish food. Ideal if you are getting a little bored of the standard tapas of jamon and tortilla.

Great value and exceptional food. Relaxed cafe type setting

Plaza Puerta Real 6 (just down from the NH Hotel on the river);
tel: 954 909 720

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For me Seville is a more interesting place than can be realised from the top of the Giralda. Locals who are most likely to talk about this are the 'Camareros' (staff) in the local bars. I found out from one of them that many younger people congregate in a neighbourhood called La Alameda de Hercules. There are numerous eateries and bars there, but leave your valuables behind.

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Riverside restaurant on three (maybe four) levels on the Triana side of the river, at the end of the Puente Isabel II bridge. At bridge level it is a stand up tapas bar, oddly reminiscent of an English pub. Below this, a dining room and at street level a pavement terrace. A rooftop terrace offers superb views over the river towards the Maestranza bullring and the cathedral beyond.

Primarily fish and seafood, their pescaito frito (mixed fried fish) is as good as most restaurants on the coast and a half ración easily feeds two. A word of warning; seats on the roof terrace are freely available on summer afternoons but the locals tend to eat inside. You'll soon understand why - the sun in Seville can be merciless at lunchtime!

On the bridge facing Plaza Altozano at the northern end of Calle Betis

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I don’t recommend anyone to go anywhere near this "housing development". Taxi drivers won't take you there and the police only go there in extreme cases, usually by the dozen (of vans), but on Sundays there´s a great market in "The Alameda de Hercules". Try the food in Los Robles (calle Argote de Molina), it’s not cheap, but the food is great.

On Thursdays there´s a street market called “El Jueves”. On Wednesdays they put a sign on the church door which says "tomorrow is Thursday", just in case you forgot it's Wednesday.

Some things may have changed in the 20 years since I lived there but the art school dance goes on forever. Avoid if possible La plaza de la Pulmareja, which is close to La Macarena, but try to visit La Plaza de San Romanand and the bar of the same name. They have a blackboard which counts down the days to La Madrugá, the night between Thursday and Good Friday when the Cristo de Los Gitanos goes out for a walk. I once saw and heard Cameron de la Isla singing Saetas there, spinechilling.

c/ Argote de Molina is one minute from the cathedral

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