I discovered this place after the gas bottle in our flat ran out one day – right in time for lunch. ‘Go to El Rincón del Búho, you can get a menú del día there for €3.50!’ read a text from my flatmate. And off I toddled. It took me about three goes to find it, as it looks like flats from the outside and you have to go up a corridor to reach it.
Advertised as an ‘artistic and socio-cultural project’, the venue has a small bar and performance space. It offers music events (including flamenco), art exhibitions, children’s theatre and storytelling workshops. Cheap snacks (€1 for a homemade empanada or slice of pizza) and bottled beers are on sale when events are on. The €3.50 deal is available from 2pm till 4pm on Thursdays and Fridays, with vegetarians catered for well.

rincondelbuhosevilla.blogspot.com.es/
Calle Parras, 31, 41002, Seville, Spain
bit.ly/13xEm7l

*Eloise is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her bio here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-eloise-horsfield and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/EloiseHorsfield You can also catch her on Twitter at @EloiseHorsefield

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You couldn't find a more intriguing watering hole than Bar Garlochí. It all starts with its name, which means heart in Gypsy language. The interior is lavish, chintzy and holy all at once. It is definitely heavy on the eyes: there are figures of the Virgin Mary and images of Christ in every corner. The bar is a popular haunt for the gay community and cheesy 70s Spanish tunes add to the atmosphere. Drinks are quite pricey though: €3 for a botellín (bottle of beer). It's quite a popular tourist spot as it has featured heavily in the press over the years and boasts that it serves 'Agua de Sevilla' in the doorway.

Calle Garlochi, 26, 41004, Seville
Google map: bit.ly/yy3D3Q

* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/

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Fed up of Cruzcampo (not many people out of Seville are actually that fond of it) then this is the best place to visit. It has an extensive menu of beers, ales, bitters, stouts from all over the world (hence the name). And to ensure that the Morte Subite (€2.95) doesn't take such effect there are also several tapas to choose from, including German sausage and sauerkraut.

www.cerveceriainternacional.com/
C/ GAMAZO, 3 41001 Seville, Spain
+34 954 211 717
Google map: bit.ly/A8l76q

* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
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A glamorous live flamenco venue frequented by many of Seville's celebs, such as Vicky Martín Berrocal, the famous flamenco dress designer. Upon entering the sala, her work is on show, a lavish red long-trained dress, and the walls adorned with black-and-white photography of flamenco greats such as Lola Flores and Camarón. The sala is minimalist, and was full of suave, young, beautiful people. A live band played a mixture of flamenquito (pop/flamenco), sevillanas and salsa, and the atmosphere was enjoyable and lively. Drinks are a little more pricey than other venues at €8 a copa (spirit and mixer).

Calle Castilla, 137
Google map: bit.ly/vS2oId

* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/

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A few months back a friend recommended me to go to Anselma's. She didn't really know how to direct me there and didn't tell me any more than that it had a good atmosphere. She assured me that anyone in the streets of Triana would know it, or her.

True to her word, a passer-by pointed us in the right direction, although upon arriving it still wasn't clear if we had reached our destination. The shutters were down and the mosaics above the door read 'Comestibles', not 'Casa Anselma'.

People were spilling out onto the road with a faint 'rociero' melody interrupted intermittently by loud outbursts of "vuelve a las 2, a las 2,'" "está a tope, a tope" ('come back at 2', 'its full"). The words were pouring out from a stout, black-clad woman in the entrance way, stopping the hoards from trying to squeeze in. It was not just her floral mantoncillo draped across her shoulders that made her appear a typical Andalusian woman -she was abrupt, loud and had plenty of guasa (wit): she was Anselma.

The crowds realised that there was no space for them and dispersed, heading to bars recommended by Anselma herself: “they sing as well as we do, but you must come back at 2”. My friend and I held tight and she eventually beckoned us on in.

The room was stuffy, packed with small gypsy-style hand painted tables and adorned with typical feria and Rocío paraphynalia. In the corner at the front was the choir, a coro rociero, a collective of people that sing hommage to the Virgen del Rocío and who go on pilgrimage every year. They were equipped with a percussion box and guitars, and not to forget the most important of instruments, their hands and voices! They performed upbeat bulerías and sevillanas to which a pair danced.

An hour into the show (at around 1 am) Anselma shouted across the audience "Stop dancing, I want to sing!" and she shimmied through the crowds to do what she knows best. It was clear that she was an experienced show woman: she joked, acted, and had a powerful copla voice.

Almost all of the people in the bar were Spanish: there were hen parties, and young groups of friends and couples. I would really recommend this bar to people that have knowledge of Spanish and the country's culture: the audience participated (singing along) at the end of the show, as Anselma belted out some classic Spanish tunes. However, without knowing a word of Spanish, I am sure that any guiri (foreigner) would be blown away by the atmosphere and Anselma's cheeky charm!

C/ Pagés del Corro, 49, 41010 TRIANA, Seville
+34 606 162 502
Google map: bit.ly/qxNlna

* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/

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This traditional stand up tapas bar is located on Plaza Alfalfa. Above the door is a colourful tiled arch depicting a beach scene.
A very popular place with both locals and visitors alike and it quickly fills up as soon as the door opens. Offers superb value for money & allows you to try traditional Andalusian-style tapas at great prices.
A novel tapa for me was the Iberian pork liver, served cold in an olive oil marinade. The tortilla portions were massive. Staff friendly and attentive.
There are tables at the back, but most opt to stand while eating tapas and watching the football on the TV and the activity on the street outside.

Calle Alfalfa, 4 41004 Seville, Spain
Google map: bit.ly/pdCHCA
Opens: noon - 4pm & 8pm - midnight daily.

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Good vibe around the Plaza Alfalfa with plenty of good tapas bars (La Bodega & Bar Alfalfa), cafes and alternative shops.

Plaza Alfalfa
Located very centrally north of the cathedral.
Google map: bit.ly/p7SK5I

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Bodega Santa Cruz (aka Las Columnas) is a great find, just around the corner from the Giralda.
An authentic tapas bar where the good humoured bar staff chalk up your tab on the bar counter.
Food while cheap is good, and we ended up frequenting this place a few times during our stay in Seville.
Some seats outside.

C/Rodrigo Caro 1 (very near cathedral)
Open 7am - midnight daily.
Google map: bit.ly/q4Nee4

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An absolute gem. One of the oldest tapas bars in Seville, with a bar on the site since the late 17th century. Popular with tourists and locals alike.
Dark wood panels with seating at a minimum but great food and a great atmosphere.
You stand at the bar and order and your tab is chalked on the bar counter to keep track.
Food really good quality and not that expensive. The espinacas con garbanzos (spinach with chickpeas is particularly to be recommended.
You can book a seat at the back for the dinner menu but we much preferred the tapas menu at the bar, so much so that we returned a number of times during our stay in Seville.
While we were there there we encountered an elderly gentleman named Valentino who writes poetry on napkins and hands to people in the bar. If you do see him, buy him a glass of beer for his trouble.
We first heard about this place on Rick Stein's TV programme 'Spain'.

www.elrinconcillo.es/en/home.html
C/ Gerona 40 near Plaza Ponce de Leon
+34 954 22 31 83
Open until late every day
Google map: bit.ly/o0Hn7B


See bar featured at the start of this Youtube video on Rick Stein's Spain:.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=-fuiDcJyXfE&feature=related

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This bar doesn't have the best location, perched on the corner of a busy road, but it is perfect for a quick bite and beer. It offers cheap, cold beer and a selection of fish-based montaditos at €1.50. Thick, white bread filled with your choice of filling: melva (frigate mackerel), achoas (achoivies), mejillones (mussels), caballa (Atlantic mackerel), or queso en aceite (cheese in oil).

Cardenal Ilundain s/n (corner of Manuel Suirot)
Bing map: binged.it/obLg2c

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A local bar squished between two blocks of flats. Don't go if you have tired feet or are looking forward to a good sit down, as there are no seats! Saying that the place was packed, and all of the white, plastic garden tables were taken up. There is not much on the menu, but the pajarito (roasted quail) and filete (pork bap) are both yum. Dare to try the spicy sauce too!

Avenida Santa Cecilia, 2, Triana, 41010 Sevilla
+34 954 08 66 94
Google map: bit.ly/fXIXVR

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Bar Giralda is a beautiful tapas bar that looks as though it hasn't changed in 60 years. The choice is staggering, and the food tastes as it should.
Bar Modesto had the best service in Seville. The waiter took a liking to us, and kept slipping us more olives, bread, Manchego cheese, wine and beer. We left to see some Flemenco with a smile and very full stomachs.

Bar Giralda (c/Mateus Gagos 1) Next to the cathedral.
Bar Modesto ((c/Canoy Cueto 5) North Santa Cruz area

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This is a new five-star hotel just in front of the cathedral and the Giralda. It's super-modern and it has some great stuff inside it, such as a Japanese restaurant, Spanish modern food, a cocktail bar, rooftop terrace with insane views, spa massage facilities, and great service.

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This is a personal collection of some of my favourite restaurants and tapa bars in Seville.

azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletapas/

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A wonderful little neighbourhood with two churches and the same number of bars - of course.

Hidden away on the edge of Macarena, it is a delight and I defy you to find a better or friendlier bar in all of Seville.

There is nothing here but real Sevilla, peaceful at times, happy at all times, and clean!

Macarena, off Calle Castellar.

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A fantastic tapas bar on (surprise-surprise) Alfalfa. Great Italian-style tapas, great wine, great service, laid-back and good music. Amazingly good value for money.

Also appears to have a slightly unusual resident transvestite.

Don't go for pudding at Tuereg over the road - it's dreadful!

Calle Alfalfa, 6

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Both Alfalfa and Alameda are the hub of Seville´s nightlife. Alfalfa is a narrow street chock-a-block with bars and cheap tapas places. It kicks off about 11 o´clock at night and is stuffed with natives and foreigners alike. Bar Robotica is worth a view if only for the comic-book wallpaper and litre-sized drinks, and Bar Berlin is guaranteed to be open until the wee hours. Look out for the old man with a multi-coloured afro and a battered pair of rollerskates.

Alameda, despite the fact it is currently being reconstructed into what can only be described as a giant sand-pit, is still fun, lively and slightly more bohemian. In particular check out Cafe Central, one of the most popular joints, with the punters spilling out on the side walk, and the odd spontaneous flamenco clapping. The majority of punters there are local Sevillianas, and are all too happy to take the hapless foreigner under their wing, and direct them to the next venue. Don't expect to be in bed before 7 o'clock the following morning though!

Both areas are in the centre. Alfalfa is no more than 5 minutes’ walk from the cathedral, and Alameda is about 5-10 minutes’ walk north from there. Cafe Central is in the top left hand corner of the square. The subway is still in the process of being built, however any local or taxi driver would be able to point you in the right direction.

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A great place to get a cheap bite to eat. With a great selection of montaditos and a fair selection of cold tapas as well, it's a lively venue that always reminds me of an old municipal swimming pool. The main seating area is a series of tiled banks beyond the bar. It's very noisy but that's half the fun. If you're feeling greedy head down the road a few doors to the bar with the Chocolate y Churros sign hanging outside. The churros there are as good as you'll get in Seville and the background din of gossiping local senoras is the perfect accompaniment to the stodgy churros and thick, rich chocolate.

c/ San Eloy 9;
www.sevilla5.com/eat-drink/saneloy.html

9 San Eloy

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The world has been cursed with Irish pubs; miniature, unpleasant, tacky theme parks that recall an Ireland that probably never existed. If that's what you're looking for then you'll find them elsewhere in Seville, but the Merchants is nothing of the sort. Slightly off the beaten track, though still only a two minute walk from the centre, it manages to be as much a haven for locals as it is a home for ex-pats and cheap flight weekenders. Spacious and roomy, with free wifi, good music and ridiculously generous helpings of high quality food, it's everything most Irish pubs aren't. If you want to watch the football or have somewhere you can actually sit down and drink (the Spanish are much happier standing than the British) without feeling like you're still at home then the Merchants is the place to go.

C/ Canalejas 12; tel: 954 214 500;
www.merchantpub.com

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An incredibly popular tapas bar on the edge of the Santa Cruz district, Las Coloniales is one of the best and cheapest places to eat in Seville. When you arrive you have to write your name and the number in your party on a small blackboard and your name is called when a table is free. It's located on the edge of the leafy (for Seville) Plaza Cristo de Burgos, which is handy as you have somewhere shady to sit whilst you wait. The food is uniformly good and the tapas sizes are exceptional for the price. Two people can have a decent meal with a couple of drinks for little over ten euros. One of the best things on the menu are the quail eggs and chorizo on fried bread, which is like a sausage and egg sarnie in the sun. You can't go wrong with the staples either. The Solomillo al Whisky is as good as you can get in Seville. On Sunday afternoons the plaza is full of Spanish families eating ice cream from the Heladeria across the road. Seville is full of Heladerias and though this one is probably the most expensive it's also the best.

Plaza Cristo de Burgos, 19 - east of the main El Corte Ingles, just past Plaze de Encarnacion.

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