Spain
With a wealth of potential flamenco available we asked the receptionist at the Museo del Baile Flamenco - incidentally a must for anyone interested in the subject - she recommended La Casa de la Memoria. It's a cultural centre in the Santa Cruz district - a short walk from the cathedral. It's got very limited space and it's worth booking in advance or reserving by phone. No tapas, no drinks just dance. Tickets 14 euros with performances most nights at 21.00.
28 Casa Ximenez de Enciso
Tel 954 56 06 70
Evening tours of the city. Carmen takes you on a singing tour of the city, visiting many of the places mentioned in Bizet's opera (the tobacco factory is now the University). She has a wonderful voice and makes the place come alive. Does not perform every night.
Departs daily except Tuesday and Sunday at 7pm from the corner of Calle Sto. Thomas and Calle Miguel Mañara, near the Alcazar entrance. What you pay is up to you. For more details check with the main tourist hotels.
We went to a Flamenco show at El Arenal (which was recommended by our hotel and also happened to top the list of flamenco venues in our Time Out guide). You could choose to eat there (show & dinner or show & tapas) or just have a drink. It was quite pricey; they're very stern with latecomers and you have to book in advance; but it's worth it to get some idea of the breadth of the art form, especially if you don't have long in the city and can't take a chance just hanging out at bars hoping that someone will get up and sing/play. The best performance for us was from a majestic old woman who sat on a chair to sing, but got so involved that she pushed the chair away and danced too - she was mesmerising.
Tablao El Arenal, Calle Rodo 7, Seville, 41001;
tel: 954 216 492
Don't be put of by the name, this "charity hospital", in particular the entrance patio and it's gem of a chapel, are well worth a visit. The place was built in 1676 as a home for the destitute and still operates as such. There is a small entrance charge, but the original paintings by Murillo and Valdés Leal (including one of a dead bishop being eaten by worms) plus the chapel itself, make it great value.
Calle Temprado 3, Sevilla - it's a side street parallel to the river road near the Torre del Oro; tel: 95 422 32 32;
Open: Mon-Sat 10.30-13.30 and 16.30-18.30
A cool, welcoming place after the heat of the street. The museum’s 14 galleries contain works by Murillo, Velazquez and Zubaran.
Plaza del Museo, with calle Alfonso XII
A 16th-century palace full of ornate tile work or azulejos. It also houses Roman sculptures and collections of porcelain and Italian and Flemish art.
Plaza de Pilatos
You don’t have to agree with killing a bull to take a tour of the ring, its baroque façade and its underbelly. Beneath the stands you will be shown the operating theatre for unlucky matadors and the museum of fighting treasures – suits and statues of the famous.
Plaza de Toros de la Real Maestranza; Paseo de Colón, 2; www.realmaestranza.com/
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