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Spain
For those of you travelling to the heart of Andalucia to sample something with a little more local flavour than an Irish pub, Bar Perejil is quintessentially Sevillano. It is owned by the former flamenco singer Pepe Perejil and photographs and mementos from his illustrious career adorn the walls. The man himself is quite a character and will often treat his customers to an impromptu burst of his still-incredible voice, particularly when accompanied by one of the many guitarists that stop by to have a casual jam Sevillanas-style. To complete the experience, go for the vino dulce or fino on tap - they go down worryingly easily but don't worry as Pepe will keep a chalk tally on the bar of how many you've had.
Plaza Padre Jerónimo de Córdoba; tel: 954 229 385
Behold Merchant's pub in Sevilla. A two-storey bar that is both relaxed, charming, and definitely the best place to while away your Sunday watching La Liga and the premiership. There is a lively ex-pat community that frequents the bar with other regulars including locals who love to chat and sing and dance with the best of us. There is a nurturing spirit within the walls of Merchant's, it's wooden décor and snugs make you feel all cosy and at home, and with friendly bar staff who genuinely enjoy their work, you could find yourself nipping in for a quick “pinta” and not leaving until the early hours having had a brilliant evening, having hardly dinted your Euro holdings, and having made some great friends.
C/ Canalejas 12; tel: 954 214 500;
www.merchantpub.com
Although Irish owned it's nothing like the typical Irish pubs you'll often find on your travels. With friendly bilingual staff and a mainly local clientele the atmosphere, whilst differing from that of a traditional Seville bar, is welcoming and hospitable. Excellent food ranging from local dishes to a wide selection of international meals. Also serves an excellent pint and has a huge choice of whiskies. Right in the centre of the city.
C/ Canalejas 12; tel: 954 214 500;
www.merchantpub.com
Riverside restaurant on three (maybe four) levels on the Triana side of the river, at the end of the Puente Isabel II bridge. At bridge level it is a stand up tapas bar, oddly reminiscent of an English pub. Below this, a dining room and at street level a pavement terrace. A rooftop terrace offers superb views over the river towards the Maestranza bullring and the cathedral beyond.
Primarily fish and seafood, their pescaito frito (mixed fried fish) is as good as most restaurants on the coast and a half ración easily feeds two. A word of warning; seats on the roof terrace are freely available on summer afternoons but the locals tend to eat inside. You'll soon understand why - the sun in Seville can be merciless at lunchtime!
On the bridge facing Plaza Altozano at the northern end of Calle Betis
The world has been cursed with Irish pubs; miniature, unpleasant, tacky theme parks that recall an Ireland that probably never existed. If that's what you're looking for then you'll find them elsewhere in Seville, but the Merchants is nothing of the sort. Slightly off the beaten track, though still only a two minute walk from the centre, it manages to be as much a haven for locals as it is a home for ex-pats and cheap flight weekenders. Spacious and roomy, with free wifi, good music and ridiculously generous helpings of high quality food, it's everything most Irish pubs aren't. If you want to watch the football or have somewhere you can actually sit down and drink (the Spanish are much happier standing than the British) without feeling like you're still at home then the Merchants is the place to go.
C/ Canalejas 12; tel: 954 214 500;
www.merchantpub.com
You couldn't find a more intriguing watering hole than Bar Garlochí. It all starts with its name, which means heart in Gypsy language. The interior is lavish, chintzy and holy all at once. It is definitely heavy on the eyes: there are figures of the Virgin Mary and images of Christ in every corner. The bar is a popular haunt for the gay community and cheesy 70s Spanish tunes add to the atmosphere. Drinks are quite pricey though: €3 for a botellín (bottle of beer). It's quite a popular tourist spot as it has featured heavily in the press over the years and boasts that it serves 'Agua de Sevilla' in the doorway.
Calle Garlochi, 26, 41004, Seville
Google map: bit.ly/yy3D3Q
* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/
Bodega Santa Cruz, Las Columnas is just a stone's throw away from La Giralda and is a charming Sevillian tapas bar. This is the Andalucian tapas tradition in one stop and is well worth seeking out. The few old wooden tables set against the apricot coloured walls and the bar's trade mark columns are a perfect spot to sit and soak up the old city's life. Situated on the old cobbled Calle de Rodrigo Caro, it's the bar for anyone who loves Spanish food or wants to try something a little different. Along with fantastic coffee, the cafe cortado is particularly good. The bodega serves the local beer, Cruzcampo and a very impressive menu of tapas ranging from the familiar Spanish tortilla to rincones al jerez (kidneys cooked in a local sherry.) But one of their best is patatas alioli (a potato salad with a velvety garlic-infused mayonnaise). If you choose to eat or drink at the bar you can expect to see your bill chalked up before you on the wooden-worn bar. Also, it's cheaper to stand. Be sure to get there early for lunch for this tapas bar is so popular with the locals that the Sevillanos pour out onto the cobbled street to eat, drink and catch up in the hot Andalucian sun.
Calle de Rodrigo de Caro, Seville, Andalucia, Spain
Bar Giralda is a beautiful tapas bar that looks as though it hasn't changed in 60 years. The choice is staggering, and the food tastes as it should.
Bar Modesto had the best service in Seville. The waiter took a liking to us, and kept slipping us more olives, bread, Manchego cheese, wine and beer. We left to see some Flemenco with a smile and very full stomachs.
Bar Giralda (c/Mateus Gagos 1) Next to the cathedral.
Bar Modesto ((c/Canoy Cueto 5) North Santa Cruz area
A wonderful little neighbourhood with two churches and the same number of bars - of course.
Hidden away on the edge of Macarena, it is a delight and I defy you to find a better or friendlier bar in all of Seville.
There is nothing here but real Sevilla, peaceful at times, happy at all times, and clean!
Macarena, off Calle Castellar.
Most squares in Seville have got nice old fashioned bars, where eating and drinking is cheap. Santa Maria La Blanca is not an exception, and it is close to the gardens (Jardines del Murillo) and the beautiful building of Universidad de Sevilla.
I recommend trying as many varieties of tapas as possible, always keeping in mind, or at hand, a nice beer to chill out.
The city centre.
Fed up of Cruzcampo (not many people out of Seville are actually that fond of it) then this is the best place to visit. It has an extensive menu of beers, ales, bitters, stouts from all over the world (hence the name). And to ensure that the Morte Subite (€2.95) doesn't take such effect there are also several tapas to choose from, including German sausage and sauerkraut.
www.cerveceriainternacional.com/
C/ GAMAZO, 3 41001 Seville, Spain
+34 954 211 717
Google map: bit.ly/A8l76q
* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/
If you are looking for the classic combination of tapas and flamenco in Seville (without being surrounded by hoards of tourists), then head
to Peña Pies Plombo. Food is authentically Andulasian - we tried the chorizo, the chickpea-based stew potaje, the pringá (a meat feast for pork lovers), plus the seasonal dish of papas aliñas which even has its own song. Only open to the public in the evenings, there is a small stage for live flamenco performances while photographs of Spanish greats Cameron and
Paco de Lucía cover the walls. The
bar is hosted by enthusiastic Loli who is always keen to start dancing, especially when accompanied by her husband, Paco. Reassuringly, his Spanish guitar playing is more convincing than his wig.
C/Dársena, 22. Tel: 954905964
See www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2007/oct/27/saturday.seville for details.
Open only on weekdays, between 1pm and 5pm.
c/Pedro del Toro, 12 (+954 214 115)
Hidden away on a narrow street Behind the Museo de Bellas Arte
picasaweb.google.com/yaniyoplin/CasaSalva
Mercado de Triana, over the river great little market in what was once the poor gypsy quarter of the city. You can pick up lush fruit and stop for a little pick me up at one of the small stall bars.
In Triana itself, there are plenty of good untouristy good tapas bars where you can pick gambas al pil pil etc. And you can wind your way back via a few of the little bars that line the banks of the river Guadalquivir.
I don’t recommend anyone to go anywhere near this "housing development". Taxi drivers won't take you there and the police only go there in extreme cases, usually by the dozen (of vans), but on Sundays there´s a great market in "The Alameda de Hercules". Try the food in Los Robles (calle Argote de Molina), it’s not cheap, but the food is great.
On Thursdays there´s a street market called “El Jueves”. On Wednesdays they put a sign on the church door which says "tomorrow is Thursday", just in case you forgot it's Wednesday.
Some things may have changed in the 20 years since I lived there but the art school dance goes on forever. Avoid if possible La plaza de la Pulmareja, which is close to La Macarena, but try to visit La Plaza de San Romanand and the bar of the same name. They have a blackboard which counts down the days to La Madrugá, the night between Thursday and Good Friday when the Cristo de Los Gitanos goes out for a walk. I once saw and heard Cameron de la Isla singing Saetas there, spinechilling.
c/ Argote de Molina is one minute from the cathedral
One of three bars owned by the same proprietor on the road. Roasted artichokes with chopped garlic and oil, garlic mushrooms and deep fried cheeses all on the menu.
24 Calle Mateos Gago
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