For those of you travelling to the heart of Andalucia to sample something with a little more local flavour than an Irish pub, Bar Perejil is quintessentially Sevillano. It is owned by the former flamenco singer Pepe Perejil and photographs and mementos from his illustrious career adorn the walls. The man himself is quite a character and will often treat his customers to an impromptu burst of his still-incredible voice, particularly when accompanied by one of the many guitarists that stop by to have a casual jam Sevillanas-style. To complete the experience, go for the vino dulce or fino on tap - they go down worryingly easily but don't worry as Pepe will keep a chalk tally on the bar of how many you've had.

Plaza Padre Jerónimo de Córdoba; tel: 954 229 385

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Evening tours of the city. Carmen takes you on a singing tour of the city, visiting many of the places mentioned in Bizet's opera (the tobacco factory is now the University). She has a wonderful voice and makes the place come alive. Does not perform every night.

Departs daily except Tuesday and Sunday at 7pm from the corner of Calle Sto. Thomas and Calle Miguel Mañara, near the Alcazar entrance. What you pay is up to you. For more details check with the main tourist hotels.

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We went to a Flamenco show at El Arenal (which was recommended by our hotel and also happened to top the list of flamenco venues in our Time Out guide). You could choose to eat there (show & dinner or show & tapas) or just have a drink. It was quite pricey; they're very stern with latecomers and you have to book in advance; but it's worth it to get some idea of the breadth of the art form, especially if you don't have long in the city and can't take a chance just hanging out at bars hoping that someone will get up and sing/play. The best performance for us was from a majestic old woman who sat on a chair to sing, but got so involved that she pushed the chair away and danced too - she was mesmerising.

Tablao El Arenal, Calle Rodo 7, Seville, 41001;
tel: 954 216 492

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The new Flamenco Dance Museum by Cristina Hoyos is definitely worth a visit. With its interactive rooms, you can find loads of information of flamenco dance and dancers, alas, not so much of guitarists and singers. 10€ / 8€.

C/ Manuel Rojas Marcos 3;
tel: 954 340 311; fax: 954 340 364;
email: info@museoflamenco.com
www.flamencomuseum.com

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This is one of those great places that you think you've just discovered and then find every other visitor knows it. You get live music in a cool cavernous setting. Plenty of locals seem to go there too. Easily missed - just a small door in the wall and not much to advertise it. Especially good to hear a bit of flamenco, with some authentically gurning singers. Free entry.

Calle Levies - in the Barrio S Cruz. Best to ask someone

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