This is a new five-star hotel just in front of the cathedral and the Giralda. It's super-modern and it has some great stuff inside it, such as a Japanese restaurant, Spanish modern food, a cocktail bar, rooftop terrace with insane views, spa massage facilities, and great service.

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This is a personal collection of some of my favourite restaurants and tapa bars in Seville.

azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletapas/

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See www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2007/oct/27/saturday.seville for details.

Open only on weekdays, between 1pm and 5pm.

c/Pedro del Toro, 12 (+954 214 115)
Hidden away on a narrow street Behind the Museo de Bellas Arte
picasaweb.google.com/yaniyoplin/CasaSalva

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Excellent modern Spanish restaurant near Santa Catalina. The menu is interesting (and there's a helpful English translation behind the bar if you ask). The food is very tasty and well prepared. The special house red is amazing and I'm gutted to have forgetten the name already. Child-friendly. Excellent and non-prententious service. Very reasonably priced. I would go back!

Dona Maria Coronel, 17
Seville: 954 215 804

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A fantastic tapas bar on (surprise-surprise) Alfalfa. Great Italian-style tapas, great wine, great service, laid-back and good music. Amazingly good value for money.

Also appears to have a slightly unusual resident transvestite.

Don't go for pudding at Tuereg over the road - it's dreadful!

Calle Alfalfa, 6

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Wander across one of the bridges and buy churros with gorgeous warm chocolate to dunk it in. Tasty.

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Dont eat out before 11, eat late with the locals. You'll get better food, atmposhere and you wont be surrounded by fellow tourists! Take some drinks and tapas early evening then go for the meal.

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Amazing Italian restaurant, very reasonably priced, very central, amazing fresh food. It’s perfect when you are sick of being ripped off by tourist priced greasy tapas in the centre! It is in the main central shopping district. I went there for three meals in a row. Open every day 12.30pm – 4.30pm; 8pm – 1am.

Cl Tetuan, 15 (Pasaje de las Delicias) 41001, Sevilla;
Reservations (not necessary at all when I was there in November): 954 21 77 83

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I don’t recommend anyone to go anywhere near this "housing development". Taxi drivers won't take you there and the police only go there in extreme cases, usually by the dozen (of vans), but on Sundays there´s a great market in "The Alameda de Hercules". Try the food in Los Robles (calle Argote de Molina), it’s not cheap, but the food is great.

On Thursdays there´s a street market called “El Jueves”. On Wednesdays they put a sign on the church door which says "tomorrow is Thursday", just in case you forgot it's Wednesday.

Some things may have changed in the 20 years since I lived there but the art school dance goes on forever. Avoid if possible La plaza de la Pulmareja, which is close to La Macarena, but try to visit La Plaza de San Romanand and the bar of the same name. They have a blackboard which counts down the days to La Madrugá, the night between Thursday and Good Friday when the Cristo de Los Gitanos goes out for a walk. I once saw and heard Cameron de la Isla singing Saetas there, spinechilling.

c/ Argote de Molina is one minute from the cathedral

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Not a great setting tucked away off the vibrant Plaza Alfalfa. But this Cuban-inspired bar has great vegetarian and non-veggie food. Black-eyed beans and cheese-and-onion pastries are delicious. Lunch for two including beers €26.

3 Calle Golfo

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Fun Italian in an old Arabic baths near to La Giralda. Dinner for two plus half bottle of wine: €30.

Calle Meson del Moro

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Sit outside on the cobbled street or inside on tiled benches while cured hams hang overhead. Fine Manzanilla sherry is served by a quirky moustachioed waiter.

Calle Santa Teresa

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