Spain
Mercado de Triana, over the river great little market in what was once the poor gypsy quarter of the city. You can pick up lush fruit and stop for a little pick me up at one of the small stall bars.
In Triana itself, there are plenty of good untouristy good tapas bars where you can pick gambas al pil pil etc. And you can wind your way back via a few of the little bars that line the banks of the river Guadalquivir.
There are plenty of them, and they seem to happen over the weekend. The strangest is the pet market. Wander through Plaza Alfalfa on a Sunday morning and chose a budgie, kitten, lizard or puppy.
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