Seville is famous for its Easter celebrations, but if you can't face the crowds go in September. The weather is tolerable and you can take part in the street parades and activities that are part of the Festival of St Michael (Feria de San Miguel). Watch the locals struggle with heavy silver tableau through the streets at night, sit at the back of candlelit churches and breathe it all in. And it's free!

Feria de San Miguel takes place at the end of September each year (2006: 23 - 24 Sep).

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This is one of those great places that you think you've just discovered and then find every other visitor knows it. You get live music in a cool cavernous setting. Plenty of locals seem to go there too. Easily missed - just a small door in the wall and not much to advertise it. Especially good to hear a bit of flamenco, with some authentically gurning singers. Free entry.

Calle Levies - in the Barrio S Cruz. Best to ask someone

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