If you are looking for the classic combination of tapas and flamenco in Seville (without being surrounded by hoards of tourists), then head
to Peña Pies Plombo. Food is authentically Andulasian - we tried the chorizo, the chickpea-based stew potaje, the pringá (a meat feast for pork lovers), plus the seasonal dish of papas aliñas which even has its own song. Only open to the public in the evenings, there is a small stage for live flamenco performances while photographs of Spanish greats Cameron and
Paco de Lucía cover the walls. The
bar is hosted by enthusiastic Loli who is always keen to start dancing, especially when accompanied by her husband, Paco. Reassuringly, his Spanish guitar playing is more convincing than his wig.

C/Dársena, 22. Tel: 954905964

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With a wealth of potential flamenco available we asked the receptionist at the Museo del Baile Flamenco - incidentally a must for anyone interested in the subject - she recommended La Casa de la Memoria. It's a cultural centre in the Santa Cruz district - a short walk from the cathedral. It's got very limited space and it's worth booking in advance or reserving by phone. No tapas, no drinks just dance. Tickets 14 euros with performances most nights at 21.00.

28 Casa Ximenez de Enciso
Tel 954 56 06 70

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Seville is famous for its Easter celebrations, but if you can't face the crowds go in September. The weather is tolerable and you can take part in the street parades and activities that are part of the Festival of St Michael (Feria de San Miguel). Watch the locals struggle with heavy silver tableau through the streets at night, sit at the back of candlelit churches and breathe it all in. And it's free!

Feria de San Miguel takes place at the end of September each year (2006: 23 - 24 Sep).

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This is one of those great places that you think you've just discovered and then find every other visitor knows it. You get live music in a cool cavernous setting. Plenty of locals seem to go there too. Easily missed - just a small door in the wall and not much to advertise it. Especially good to hear a bit of flamenco, with some authentically gurning singers. Free entry.

Calle Levies - in the Barrio S Cruz. Best to ask someone

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