I never used to like this place. It features in all the tourist guides and every time I had been it was always full of chattering, disrespectful, sun-burnt guiris (what the Spanish have fondly labelled foreigners). La Carbonería, former coal yard, is a flamenco venue which showcases artists that are new to the scene. It has white-washed rugged walls, boasting flamenco-related art work.
I have, however, grown to like it: I do tend to try and steer myself away from the larger room, especially in peak season, where the long benches get filled up early for the more tourist-friendly flamenco show (i.e. it's complete with dancer). I prefer the smaller room in the entrance, where I have witnessed spontaneous displays of local talent, young and old passing on the baton to sing, play the piano, or make a space to dance. One of my favourite encounters was listening to a young guitarist and older gypsy gentleman jamming away in a little hidden-away corner.
A perfect venue for someone wanting to try flamenco for the first time. It's open every day from 10 pm. Entry is free but drinks a little more expensive than most places, although reasonable (€2 for a beer).

In the barrio Santa Cruz. It is a little hard to find but noticeable for its large red doorway.
Calle Levies, 18, 41004 Sevilla, Spain
+34 954 21 44 60
Google map: bit.ly/KEefQ6

* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/

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Random could be used to describe this venue (but good random). Walking in through the large entrance way you are confronted with an open patio space and many doors. Behind each is a different type of music - flamenquito, drum'n'bass, reggae- and atmosphere. I found myself in a tiny bar, with cheap beers served in plastic cups, bopping along to Brazilian rhythms.
From research, I have discovered that it is also a crafts centre grouping together the handiwork of many artists (silk, ceramics, puppets, glassware, etc).
Will definitely be popping by there again soon!

Calle de Castellar, 52 41003 Sevilla (NOT Castelar - I made that mistake!!)
Google map: bit.ly/J68PDs

* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/

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If you're not going to be able to make Semana Santa (Holy Week) or don't want to face the crowds, to at least get a feel for it head to La Torre del Oro in the evening (8pm+) to spot the band practicing. No matter what time of year (even when the event has only just past) they are there trumpets-a-tooting, drums-a-banging.
Another spot is in the Maria Luisa Park, not too far from the Plaza de Espanya entrance.

Paseo Cristobal Colon S/N, 41001 Sevilla, Spain
+34 954 22 24 19
Google map: bit.ly/nUjWjR

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Summer in Seville is all about staying cool in the day and enjoying the breeze in the evening. There is no better way to do this than to enjoy one of its many nightly events. Noches en los Jardines del Real Alcázar are are series of nightly concerts held in the Arab-style palace gardens. Choose from ancient medieval, classical or world music (even flamenco) and enjoy concerts in one of the most beautiful settings. Tickets can be bought from the Apeadero del Real Alcázar (Patio de Banderas) or via the Internet www.cajasol.es and cost €4 (€5 when purchased online).

www.actidea.es/nochesalcazar2011/
www.patronato-alcazarsevilla.es
Plaza Triunfo, S/N, 41004 Sevilla, Spain
+34 954 50 23 24
Google map: bit.ly/omtFyH

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If you are looking for the classic combination of tapas and flamenco in Seville (without being surrounded by hoards of tourists), then head
to Peña Pies Plombo. Food is authentically Andulasian - we tried the chorizo, the chickpea-based stew potaje, the pringá (a meat feast for pork lovers), plus the seasonal dish of papas aliñas which even has its own song. Only open to the public in the evenings, there is a small stage for live flamenco performances while photographs of Spanish greats Cameron and
Paco de Lucía cover the walls. The
bar is hosted by enthusiastic Loli who is always keen to start dancing, especially when accompanied by her husband, Paco. Reassuringly, his Spanish guitar playing is more convincing than his wig.

C/Dársena, 22. Tel: 954905964

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With a wealth of potential flamenco available we asked the receptionist at the Museo del Baile Flamenco - incidentally a must for anyone interested in the subject - she recommended La Casa de la Memoria. It's a cultural centre in the Santa Cruz district - a short walk from the cathedral. It's got very limited space and it's worth booking in advance or reserving by phone. No tapas, no drinks just dance. Tickets 14 euros with performances most nights at 21.00.

28 Casa Ximenez de Enciso
Tel 954 56 06 70

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Seville is famous for its Easter celebrations, but if you can't face the crowds go in September. The weather is tolerable and you can take part in the street parades and activities that are part of the Festival of St Michael (Feria de San Miguel). Watch the locals struggle with heavy silver tableau through the streets at night, sit at the back of candlelit churches and breathe it all in. And it's free!

Feria de San Miguel takes place at the end of September each year (2006: 23 - 24 Sep).

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This is one of those great places that you think you've just discovered and then find every other visitor knows it. You get live music in a cool cavernous setting. Plenty of locals seem to go there too. Easily missed - just a small door in the wall and not much to advertise it. Especially good to hear a bit of flamenco, with some authentically gurning singers. Free entry.

Calle Levies - in the Barrio S Cruz. Best to ask someone

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