I discovered this place after the gas bottle in our flat ran out one day – right in time for lunch. ‘Go to El Rincón del Búho, you can get a menú del día there for €3.50!’ read a text from my flatmate. And off I toddled. It took me about three goes to find it, as it looks like flats from the outside and you have to go up a corridor to reach it.
Advertised as an ‘artistic and socio-cultural project’, the venue has a small bar and performance space. It offers music events (including flamenco), art exhibitions, children’s theatre and storytelling workshops. Cheap snacks (€1 for a homemade empanada or slice of pizza) and bottled beers are on sale when events are on. The €3.50 deal is available from 2pm till 4pm on Thursdays and Fridays, with vegetarians catered for well.

rincondelbuhosevilla.blogspot.com.es/
Calle Parras, 31, 41002, Seville, Spain
bit.ly/13xEm7l

* Eloise is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her bio here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-eloise-horsfield.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/EloiseHorsfield You can also catch her on Twitter at @EloiseHorsfield

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An organic and vegetarian restaurant in Seville. Yes, you have read correctly. A meat-free menu! It offers a wide range of fresh, mainly local produce. Salads (from €8-€12.50), cheeses, gazpachos and full meals. There are also set menus for €9.95 Monday to Friday with a starter, main meal and dessert. Wednesdays are curry day - the 'mixed plate' didn't leave much room for the dessert!
In addition to the restaurant, Gaia has an alternative studies centre (massage, Chinese medicine, etc) and a shop selling organic produce.
Staff are incredibly friendly!

www.restauranteecologicogaia.com
Calle de Luis de Vargas, 4 41001 Seville, Spain
+34 (0)954 21 19 34
Google map: bit.ly/O0ODl9

* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/

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A lovely wine bar. Not being much of a connoisseur of wines, I can only say that there is an extensive list. For me the food is by far the most important! There is a vast choice of dishes and the menu interestingly (for this neck of the woods) indicates vegetarian options (the online one doesn't really do it justice). My favourite dish was marinated tuna on a bed of seaweed, with wasabi dressing. Tapas are a little more expensive than in bog-standard bars, but are quite generous portions. Some patience needed with waiters when bar is busy. I am eager to return to try more of their delicious food.

www.vineriasantelmo.com/
Paseo de Catalina de Ribera, 4 41004 Seville, Spain
+34 954 41 06 00
Google map: bit.ly/JrgVoY

* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/

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Seville city centre has a wealth of food establishments, with plenty of choice between tapas bars and international dishes. However, sometimes a trip to a small town can uncover little gems. Da Frá is a beautifully decorated Italian restaurant. Very cosy, and with a family feel - perfect for a winter's evening with an enormous log-fire in the middle of the venue. It has a wide selection of anti-pasti/insalatas, pasta and pizza, meat and risotto but not too much to make you dizzy. All reasonably priced and generous portions. Homemade puddings too!

www.dafrasevilla.com
Calle Martires de la Iglesia, S/N, 41807 Espartinas
Google map: bit.ly/zFRcqK

* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/

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A minimalist wine-bar style establishment in Utrera, a small town some 30 minutes away from Seville. A good range of hot and cold gastro-tapas. A little more expensive than most places, but definitely worth the few cents more. All dishes come beautifully and innovatively presented. Being a drab winter day, I asked for the 'pucherito expreso' (€3.90), and what a spectacle! Puchero is a broth made of various meat-types. It is normally served as a broth with rice or chickpeas and the meat is served as a side, all mushed together and eaten with bread, called 'pringá' (or pringada). My pucherito expresso was served to me from a tiny cafetiere. The waitress poured it for me into a bowl, garnished with a quail egg, and the pringá was in the bottom half of the instrument.

www.besanatapas.com/
C/ Niño Perdido, 1 41710 Utrera
+34 955 86 38 04
Google map: bit.ly/xujL5Z

* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/

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Local tapas bar in the Alfalfa neighbourhood.
Good relaxed vibe, with people spilling out into the street when it gets packed (which it easily can given the small size).

C/ Candilejo, 1 41004 Seville, Spain
+34 954 222 344
Google map: bit.ly/mZLXAV

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This traditional stand up tapas bar is located on Plaza Alfalfa. Above the door is a colourful tiled arch depicting a beach scene.
A very popular place with both locals and visitors alike and it quickly fills up as soon as the door opens. Offers superb value for money & allows you to try traditional Andalusian-style tapas at great prices.
A novel tapa for me was the Iberian pork liver, served cold in an olive oil marinade. The tortilla portions were massive. Staff friendly and attentive.
There are tables at the back, but most opt to stand while eating tapas and watching the football on the TV and the activity on the street outside.

Calle Alfalfa, 4 41004 Seville, Spain
Google map: bit.ly/pdCHCA
Opens: noon - 4pm & 8pm - midnight daily.

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Bodega Santa Cruz (aka Las Columnas) is a great find, just around the corner from the Giralda.
An authentic tapas bar where the good humoured bar staff chalk up your tab on the bar counter.
Food while cheap is good, and we ended up frequenting this place a few times during our stay in Seville.
Some seats outside.

C/Rodrigo Caro 1 (very near cathedral)
Open 7am - midnight daily.
Google map: bit.ly/q4Nee4

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An absolute gem. One of the oldest tapas bars in Seville, with a bar on the site since the late 17th century. Popular with tourists and locals alike.
Dark wood panels with seating at a minimum but great food and a great atmosphere.
You stand at the bar and order and your tab is chalked on the bar counter to keep track.
Food really good quality and not that expensive. The espinacas con garbanzos (spinach with chickpeas is particularly to be recommended.
You can book a seat at the back for the dinner menu but we much preferred the tapas menu at the bar, so much so that we returned a number of times during our stay in Seville.
While we were there there we encountered an elderly gentleman named Valentino who writes poetry on napkins and hands to people in the bar. If you do see him, buy him a glass of beer for his trouble.
We first heard about this place on Rick Stein's TV programme 'Spain'.

www.elrinconcillo.es/en/home.html
C/ Gerona 40 near Plaza Ponce de Leon
+34 954 22 31 83
Open until late every day
Google map: bit.ly/o0Hn7B


See bar featured at the start of this Youtube video on Rick Stein's Spain:.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=-fuiDcJyXfE&feature=related

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Literally meaning vegetable garden in Spanish, La Huerta, offers just that. Lots of veggie tapas - you can even find croquetas (croquettes) free of ham (choice of cauliflower or pesto). Tapas prices ranging between €2-3. Three tapas and 4 drinks (2 people) was about €20. Great summertime dining as plenty of outdoor seating and near other tapas bars (including the infamous Rinconcillo) if you wished to make a little tour of it.

Plaza Terceros 9, Seville, Spain
+34 655 270 079
Google map: bit.ly/ovIJK5

* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/

Barrio: La Encarnación

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A lovely bar/restaurant nestled in the Triana barrio. It offers a wide selection of international-influenced tapas, and a well-balanced variety of meat/fish/vegetable dishes. Friendly and attentive waiter service. Fancy food but relaxed atmosphere - a little pricey, but good quality (3 tapas and 2 drinks €28). Try the star dish "Arroz meloso con magret" - Risotto-style rice with duck.

www.puratasca.com
Numancia, 5, Triana 41010
+34954330680

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50s-style American dining, with authentic-looking decor, free jukeboxes and plenty of ketchup and mayo on the table for your liking. Meals are quite pricey - around seven euros for a burger and fries - DO NOT come for that! Pink lemonade a refreshing economical option and great choice of indulgent desserts.
Meal is a little rushed as you're given an hour slot. Reservations a must!

C/ Luis Montoto, 50, 41018 Sevilla
+34 954 41 45 85
www.peggysues.es
Google map: bit.ly/kDvEvR

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Boreas could be considered a “gastro” tapas restaurant, serving traditional tapas with quality ingredients and a modern, international twist. It has a relaxed atmosphere, and a specials board that changes regularly, with plenty of choice for vegetarians and pescatarians. Tapas are a little pricier than your bog-standard bar but the quality is definitely there.

Make a table reservation to avoid disappointment

Alameda de Hercules, 61, Sevilla, 41002
+34 954 916334
www.boreassevilla.com/
La Alameda is considered the more indie part of the city, where many bars and restaurants have sprouted after a recent renovation. It is a short stroll away from the city centre, but is a hive for food and entertainment.
Google map: bit.ly/mm1TIV

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It is a bar that a friend recommended to me. It's nothing fancy and you can either sit at the bar or in one of two rooms with tables. We ordered four tapas (carriada, espinacas con garbanzos, pisto con huevo, and champinon a la plancha) with five drinks and it only came to 15 euros. Great home-made Spanish food.

C/ Herbolarios, 17 41004 Seville, Spain
+34 954 215 177
Google map: bit.ly/g3boVW

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Blanco Cerrillo is one of the oldest bars in Seville. Very simple and no fuss. It is perfect for eating fried fish tapas, and the adobo is loved by the locals. It gets very packed and the tables outside (and any convenient space to place a tapa and beer) are usually occupied. Once inside though, you can normally holler your order and then inch your way to the bar. It is equipped with a team of three or four older waiters who are constantly shouting out the orders to the kitchen crew "'obo", "eroneeeeh" (boquerones). Something that I loved here before the smoking ban was that one of them had a little ciggy nooky-hole and would serve you and go back for a crafty drag every once in a while - now he swigs from a Cruzcampo botellín instead (a small bottle of Cruzcampo). Tapas are well-priced at only €1.50 a pop.

Calle Doctor Jimenez Diaz, 16, 41008 Seville, Spain
+34 954351008
Google map:bit.ly/yD8Ow2

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I really recommend heading 20 minutes away from the city to La Puebla del Río to feast on their speciality arroz con pato (rice with duck). There are many restaurants that serve it, but the locals love the riverside, family-run El Rezón. The dish costs €8 per head and comes served in a cazuela (casserole dish) with your very own ladle. If you are rather peckish try the camarones con pimiento asado y huevo frito (tiny shrimps with roasted peppers and fried eggs) or mejillones rellenos (filled mussels) for starters.

Plaza Blas Infante, s/n
La Puebla del Rio
C.P. 41130
www.elrezon.com/pages/ES/inicio.htm
+34 955 771 806
Google map: bit.ly/hDDWr3

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Excellent Italian restaurant on Calle Matteos Gago. Two standout dishes - pasta with Italian sausage, cream and nutmeg (sounds dull, tastes of heaven - think it's the nutmeg) and a salad of strawberries, walnuts and goat's cheese. Much, much better than the (now) dreadful place in the Arab bathhouse who get you in and out REALLY fast and feed you nothing very special in, admittedly, wonderful surroundings. Go to L'Oca Giuliva instead. Friendly (although not quick) service. If you want to eat outside, go early.

Calle Matteos Gago (in Barrio Santa Cruz, leading down to the Cathedral/Giralda/Alcazar.
Calle Mateos Gago, 9, 41004 Sevilla, España
954 214 030

Google map: tinyurl.com/32gzzpo

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Go to Horno de San Buenaventura for breakfast.
We stayed in a hotel nearby where the breakfast was 20 euros each. As a family of four we decided to explore an alternative and found this great place. Great food, great value and the best coffee we have had in Spain.
The cost for the four of us was only about 16 euros.

Avenida la Constitución 16. Sevilla, 41002
Teléfono.: 95.422.18.19

Google map: tinyurl.com/ycumrpp

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Really Discover offers short (2.5 hrs) tours of Seville. The walking tour is limited to 10 people so you are never so far from the guide that you can't hear what is being said.

We chose to start our first full day in Seville with the walking tour in order to get our bearings and plan our week better. Our guide, Luis, really knew his city and obviously loves it as well. They have a basic plan but are flexible so that they can skip over places you've already been if you wish.

We were met by David, a Brit who moved to Seville, and Luis our guide who spoke very good English. Both were friendly and helpful. A later call to David helped us sort out a taxi back to the station very early in the morning.

They are also happy to recommend their favourite places to eat or visit. Luis recommended a restaurant called Taberna del Alabardero which we visited twice for their Menu del Dia.

Luis also took us to the Archivo General de Indias which was a treat that we would probably have skipped had it not been for the tour. This place is particularly interesting for US visitors interested in their own history.

www.reallydiscover.com

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Bodega Santa Cruz, Las Columnas is just a stone's throw away from La Giralda and is a charming Sevillian tapas bar. This is the Andalucian tapas tradition in one stop and is well worth seeking out. The few old wooden tables set against the apricot coloured walls and the bar's trade mark columns are a perfect spot to sit and soak up the old city's life. Situated on the old cobbled Calle de Rodrigo Caro, it's the bar for anyone who loves Spanish food or wants to try something a little different. Along with fantastic coffee, the cafe cortado is particularly good. The bodega serves the local beer, Cruzcampo and a very impressive menu of tapas ranging from the familiar Spanish tortilla to rincones al jerez (kidneys cooked in a local sherry.) But one of their best is patatas alioli (a potato salad with a velvety garlic-infused mayonnaise). If you choose to eat or drink at the bar you can expect to see your bill chalked up before you on the wooden-worn bar. Also, it's cheaper to stand. Be sure to get there early for lunch for this tapas bar is so popular with the locals that the Sevillanos pour out onto the cobbled street to eat, drink and catch up in the hot Andalucian sun.

Calle de Rodrigo de Caro, Seville, Andalucia, Spain

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