http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/ Welcome to Been there. Your tips on the places you know - that you love, live in or have just visited - are what make this guide. http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33710 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33710 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33644 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33644 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33562 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33562 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33176 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33176 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33024 It may seem excessive having a whole market dedicated to the nativity scene, but it is here where they do not do things by halves. The feria starts mid November until 23 December, and its 20-odd stands have a range of hand-crafted figurines, buildings, bridges, even a pyramid if you wish. Their nativity scene does not just include the stable and baby Jesus in a crib: it extends to the mountains, the farmlands, rivers, ponds and often proudly takes up a large table in Spanish families' houses.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33024 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32897 I was wrong.
Before even stepping foot in the museum reception, you are already welcomed by faint flamenco rhythms and the sound 'pa-tah, pa-tah, pa-tah'. On the way to the museum (it's located on the 1st floor), you pass the light and airy patio where top-notch performances take place every evening. It was from here that the sounds of taconeo were being produced, although not in the form of a spectacular show on the centre stage, but basic steps from flamenco fledglings in the glass-paned dance studio. Visitors are encouraged to take a pew and observe, attempt to comprehend the complexity involved with mastering this art form, so that they are able to really appreciate how long it took the novice to perfect just one step when watching the professional show.
The museum itself is relatively new, and was inaugurated in 2006, born of the initiative of Cristina Hoyos, an acclaimed Sevillana flamenco dancer and actress, who has had a great influence on the rise of this artform. She wanted to bring flamenco dance closer to the world, to make people understand that it is one of the three fundamental pillars that support flamenco: the other two being cante (singing) and toque (guitar playing). Only last year, flamenco was declared as being of intangible cultural heritage by UNESCO, and Crisitina Hoyos and this wonderful museum may have had something to do with that! This is the only museum in the world, to date, to solely be dedicated to flamenco dance.
It provides a perfect introduction for any visitor to this magical world (or for Andalusian visitors to be reminded of its beginnings). Although I have attempted to describe the different flamenco palos in the past, I learnt from the tour that many stones were surely left unturned. The first floor of the Museo del Baile Flamenco uses a hands-on high tech approach to explaining the origins, (i.e., where castanets, hand or hip movements were from) and the variety of palos (flamenco styles), through videos and interactive screens, available in many languages (English, Spanish, German, French, Chinese and Japanese). Flamenco is an emotive dance, and depending on the palo different feelings can be portrayed: these videos perfectly demonstrate this with buzz words flashing up alongside. Furthermore, visitors can read more information, listen and watch using the touch-screen displays. This floor also describes how flamenco came into the spotlight, both in Spain and in the rest of the world. You can stand under the 'sound showers' and experience a sensory overload: hear flamenco melodies, see footage from years bygone - when flamenco started to take centre stage - and read famous flamenco quotes from flamenco-inspired works such as Carmen.
Another room puts flamenco costume in the spotlight, using interactive screens to explain where different items came from and how they were incorporated into dance. Last but not least on this floor, is a room consisting entirely of video walls, showing a performance choreographed specifically for the museum by Cristina Hoyos.
The museum also has an impressive photography and art collection, including images of Cristina Hoyo and her dance company, reminiscing of their ‘golden years’. Contemporary art works from up-and-coming artists, Spanish and international bring give the museum bring the art to the modern day. The exhibition rooms, as well as the well-preserved 18th century basement, are also used for percussion lessons and can be hired out for private events or conferences.
After discovering so much about the art of flamenco, it really made me appreciate the amazing live performance that same the evening. Four artists: two bailaores dancers (Lola Jaramillo and Jesús Herrera), a tocaor guitarist (Andrés Martínez) and a cantaor singer (Trini) took to the stage to bring to life all that was learnt from the museum. Here though, you could feel the flamenco and understand the emotions involved in the various palos. You could feel the vibration from the taconazos on the wooden tablao, and the swish of air as the train from Lola's traje swished inches past your face. Experience the joyfulness of bulerías and heart-felt wails of a saeta. I had seen many shows in free bars, the Bienal and touristy tabloas and I can guarantee that this show will remain present in my memory for much time to come. All of the performers stood out for me, but never had I seen a bailaora with such stage presence – maybe because I had never seen one master dancing with a mantoncillo and long-trained traje - it was astonishing.
This museum and show is a perfect introduction to flamenco for any visitor to Seville. It is located on C/ Manuel Rojas Marcos, 3, and is open 365 days a year from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Entrance to the museum is: Adults - €10, Students and over 65s - €8, and Sevillanos and children - €6.
Shows are
Sunday to Thursday (45 mins): Adults - €15, Students and over 65s - €12, and Sevillanos and children - €10
Friday and Saturday (60 mins): Adults - €23, Students and over 65s - €20, and Sevillanos and children - €12
Packages are available to enter the museum and see a show:
Sunday to Thursday: Adults - €20, Students and over 65s - €15, Sevillanos and children - €12
Friday and Saturday: Adults - €28, Students and over 65s - €25, Sevillanos and children - €20

For a guided tour of the museum in English, visit on Mondays or Thursdays at 5 p.m.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32897 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32789 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32789 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32617
True to her word, a passer-by pointed us in the right direction, although upon arriving it still wasn't clear if we had reached our destination. The shutters were down and the mosaics above the door read 'Comestibles', not 'Casa Anselma'.

People were spilling out onto the road with a faint 'rociero' melody interrupted intermittently by loud outbursts of "vuelve a las 2, a las 2,'" "está a tope, a tope" ('come back at 2', 'its full"). The words were pouring out from a stout, black-clad woman in the entrance way, stopping the hoards from trying to squeeze in. It was not just her floral mantoncillo draped across her shoulders that made her appear a typical Andalusian woman -she was abrupt, loud and had plenty of guasa (wit): she was Anselma.

The crowds realised that there was no space for them and dispersed, heading to bars recommended by Anselma herself: “they sing as well as we do, but you must come back at 2”. My friend and I held tight and she eventually beckoned us on in.

The room was stuffy, packed with small gypsy-style hand painted tables and adorned with typical feria and Rocío paraphynalia. In the corner at the front was the choir, a coro rociero, a collective of people that sing hommage to the Virgen del Rocío and who go on pilgrimage every year. They were equipped with a percussion box and guitars, and not to forget the most important of instruments, their hands and voices! They performed upbeat bulerías and sevillanas to which a pair danced.

An hour into the show (at around 1 am) Anselma shouted across the audience "Stop dancing, I want to sing!" and she shimmied through the crowds to do what she knows best. It was clear that she was an experienced show woman: she joked, acted, and had a powerful copla voice.

Almost all of the people in the bar were Spanish: there were hen parties, and young groups of friends and couples. I would really recommend this bar to people that have knowledge of Spanish and the country's culture: the audience participated (singing along) at the end of the show, as Anselma belted out some classic Spanish tunes. However, without knowing a word of Spanish, I am sure that any guiri (foreigner) would be blown away by the atmosphere and Anselma's cheeky charm!]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32617 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32418 Located only across the road from the Santa Justa train station in a nice part of town.
While we were there in August (six nights) the hotel was in the process of being renovated but that was only a minor inconvenience.
We got a good deal on the rooms from a well know hotel booking website.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32418 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32414 Good relaxed vibe, with people spilling out into the street when it gets packed (which it easily can given the small size).]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32414 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32413 A very popular place with both locals and visitors alike and it quickly fills up as soon as the door opens. Offers superb value for money & allows you to try traditional Andalusian-style tapas at great prices.
A novel tapa for me was the Iberian pork liver, served cold in an olive oil marinade. The tortilla portions were massive. Staff friendly and attentive.
There are tables at the back, but most opt to stand while eating tapas and watching the football on the TV and the activity on the street outside.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32413 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32412 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32412 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32404 An authentic tapas bar where the good humoured bar staff chalk up your tab on the bar counter.
Food while cheap is good, and we ended up frequenting this place a few times during our stay in Seville.
Some seats outside.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32404 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32403 Dark wood panels with seating at a minimum but great food and a great atmosphere.
You stand at the bar and order and your tab is chalked on the bar counter to keep track.
Food really good quality and not that expensive. The espinacas con garbanzos (spinach with chickpeas is particularly to be recommended.
You can book a seat at the back for the dinner menu but we much preferred the tapas menu at the bar, so much so that we returned a number of times during our stay in Seville.
While we were there there we encountered an elderly gentleman named Valentino who writes poetry on napkins and hands to people in the bar. If you do see him, buy him a glass of beer for his trouble.
We first heard about this place on Rick Stein's TV programme 'Spain'.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32403 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32265 Another spot is in the Maria Luisa Park, not too far from the Plaza de Espanya entrance.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32265 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32140 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32140 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32027 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/32027 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31938 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31938 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31830 www.cajasol.es and cost €4 (€5 when purchased online).]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31830 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31498 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31498