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After having lived in Seville for two years, I am a little embarrassed that there are many attractions I have yet to visit. This was the case of the Museo de Baile Flamenco (Museum of flamenco dance). I knew where it was and had wandered past peering in many a time when passing by with visitors. When I was invited to take a tour, I didn't know what to expect. I had a stereotypical prejudgement in mind: museums are boring and require a lot of reading and concentration.
I was wrong.
Before even stepping foot in the museum reception, you are already welcomed by faint flamenco rhythms and the sound 'pa-tah, pa-tah, pa-tah'. On the way to the museum (it's located on the 1st floor), you pass the light and airy patio where top-notch performances take place every evening. It was from here that the sounds of taconeo were being produced, although not in the form of a spectacular show on the centre stage, but basic steps from flamenco fledglings in the glass-paned dance studio. Visitors are encouraged to take a pew and observe, attempt to comprehend the complexity involved with mastering this art form, so that they are able to really appreciate how long it took the novice to perfect just one step when watching the professional show.
The museum itself is relatively new, and was inaugurated in 2006, born of the initiative of Cristina Hoyos, an acclaimed Sevillana flamenco dancer and actress, who has had a great influence on the rise of this artform. She wanted to bring flamenco dance closer to the world, to make people understand that it is one of the three fundamental pillars that support flamenco: the other two being cante (singing) and toque (guitar playing). Only last year, flamenco was declared as being of intangible cultural heritage by UNESCO, and Crisitina Hoyos and this wonderful museum may have had something to do with that! This is the only museum in the world, to date, to solely be dedicated to flamenco dance.
It provides a perfect introduction for any visitor to this magical world (or for Andalusian visitors to be reminded of its beginnings). Although I have attempted to describe the different flamenco palos in the past, I learnt from the tour that many stones were surely left unturned. The first floor of the Museo del Baile Flamenco uses a hands-on high tech approach to explaining the origins, (i.e., where castanets, hand or hip movements were from) and the variety of palos (flamenco styles), through videos and interactive screens, available in many languages (English, Spanish, German, French, Chinese and Japanese). Flamenco is an emotive dance, and depending on the palo different feelings can be portrayed: these videos perfectly demonstrate this with buzz words flashing up alongside. Furthermore, visitors can read more information, listen and watch using the touch-screen displays. This floor also describes how flamenco came into the spotlight, both in Spain and in the rest of the world. You can stand under the 'sound showers' and experience a sensory overload: hear flamenco melodies, see footage from years bygone - when flamenco started to take centre stage - and read famous flamenco quotes from flamenco-inspired works such as Carmen.
Another room puts flamenco costume in the spotlight, using interactive screens to explain where different items came from and how they were incorporated into dance. Last but not least on this floor, is a room consisting entirely of video walls, showing a performance choreographed specifically for the museum by Cristina Hoyos.
The museum also has an impressive photography and art collection, including images of Cristina Hoyo and her dance company, reminiscing of their ‘golden years’. Contemporary art works from up-and-coming artists, Spanish and international bring give the museum bring the art to the modern day. The exhibition rooms, as well as the well-preserved 18th century basement, are also used for percussion lessons and can be hired out for private events or conferences.
After discovering so much about the art of flamenco, it really made me appreciate the amazing live performance that same the evening. Four artists: two bailaores dancers (Lola Jaramillo and Jesús Herrera), a tocaor guitarist (Andrés Martínez) and a cantaor singer (Trini) took to the stage to bring to life all that was learnt from the museum. Here though, you could feel the flamenco and understand the emotions involved in the various palos. You could feel the vibration from the taconazos on the wooden tablao, and the swish of air as the train from Lola's traje swished inches past your face. Experience the joyfulness of bulerías and heart-felt wails of a saeta. I had seen many shows in free bars, the Bienal and touristy tabloas and I can guarantee that this show will remain present in my memory for much time to come. All of the performers stood out for me, but never had I seen a bailaora with such stage presence – maybe because I had never seen one master dancing with a mantoncillo and long-trained traje - it was astonishing.
This museum and show is a perfect introduction to flamenco for any visitor to Seville. It is located on C/ Manuel Rojas Marcos, 3, and is open 365 days a year from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.

Entrance to the museum is: Adults - €10, Students and over 65s - €8, and Sevillanos and children - €6.
Shows are
Sunday to Thursday (45 mins): Adults - €15, Students and over 65s - €12, and Sevillanos and children - €10
Friday and Saturday (60 mins): Adults - €23, Students and over 65s - €20, and Sevillanos and children - €12
Packages are available to enter the museum and see a show:
Sunday to Thursday: Adults - €20, Students and over 65s - €15, Sevillanos and children - €12
Friday and Saturday: Adults - €28, Students and over 65s - €25, Sevillanos and children - €20

For a guided tour of the museum in English, visit on Mondays or Thursdays at 5 p.m.

www.museoflamenco.com
C/ Manuel Rojas Marcos 3
+34.954.34.03.11
Google map: bit.ly/ujcnsi

* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/

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Sevilla Tapas Tours

Posted by alejna 7 July 2010

A high point of my visit to Sevilla was a tapas tour with the woman who writes the Sevilla Tapas website. Not only did we get to try some really delicious food, but we got to see some truly charming tapas bars, each with its own unique character.
It was a real treat to be with someone who really knew her way around Seville's confusing maze of streets, and knew where to go and what to order to have a phenomenal tapas experience.

azahar-sevilla.com/tapas-tours/

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Go to Horno de San Buenaventura for breakfast.
We stayed in a hotel nearby where the breakfast was 20 euros each. As a family of four we decided to explore an alternative and found this great place. Great food, great value and the best coffee we have had in Spain.
The cost for the four of us was only about 16 euros.

Avenida la Constitución 16. Sevilla, 41002
Teléfono.: 95.422.18.19

Google map: tinyurl.com/ycumrpp

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An organic and vegetarian restaurant in Seville. Yes, you have read correctly. A meat-free menu! It offers a wide range of fresh, mainly local produce. Salads (from €8-€12.50), cheeses, gazpachos and full meals. There are also set menus for €9.95 Monday to Friday with a starter, main meal and dessert. Wednesdays are curry day - the 'mixed plate' didn't leave much room for the dessert!
In addition to the restaurant, Gaia has an alternative studies centre (massage, Chinese medicine, etc) and a shop selling organic produce.
Staff are incredibly friendly!

www.restauranteecologicogaia.com
Calle de Luis de Vargas, 4 41001 Seville, Spain
+34 (0)954 21 19 34
Google map: bit.ly/O0ODl9

* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/

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La Mar de Flores

Posted by BecomingSevillana 9 March 2012

A small florist/garden centre. The mar de flores family-run store is literally on their doorstep: they have opened their front garden to all who wish to peruse the collection of plants they have on offer. All plants are interestingly presented: in shoes, bird cages, teacups, handbags and kettles. Would make the perfect gift for the eco-conscious. Pick up a ready crafted gift, or request a tailor-made arrangement.

Alameda de Hercules, 73
+34(0)954374685
Google map: bit.ly/yTSeRt

* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/

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Bar Garlochi

Posted by BecomingSevillana 16 February 2012

You couldn't find a more intriguing watering hole than Bar Garlochí. It all starts with its name, which means heart in Gypsy language. The interior is lavish, chintzy and holy all at once. It is definitely heavy on the eyes: there are figures of the Virgin Mary and images of Christ in every corner. The bar is a popular haunt for the gay community and cheesy 70s Spanish tunes add to the atmosphere. Drinks are quite pricey though: €3 for a botellín (bottle of beer). It's quite a popular tourist spot as it has featured heavily in the press over the years and boasts that it serves 'Agua de Sevilla' in the doorway.

Calle Garlochi, 26, 41004, Seville
Google map: bit.ly/yy3D3Q

* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/

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A minimalist wine-bar style establishment in Utrera, a small town some 30 minutes away from Seville. A good range of hot and cold gastro-tapas. A little more expensive than most places, but definitely worth the few cents more. All dishes come beautifully and innovatively presented. Being a drab winter day, I asked for the 'pucherito expreso' (€3.90), and what a spectacle! Puchero is a broth made of various meat-types. It is normally served as a broth with rice or chickpeas and the meat is served as a side, all mushed together and eaten with bread, called 'pringá' (or pringada). My pucherito expresso was served to me from a tiny cafetiere. The waitress poured it for me into a bowl, garnished with a quail egg, and the pringá was in the bottom half of the instrument.

www.besanatapas.com/
C/ Niño Perdido, 1 41710 Utrera
+34 955 86 38 04
Google map: bit.ly/xujL5Z

* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/

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Heladería La Fiorentina

Posted by BecomingSevillana 3 November 2011

My Sevillana friend always swears by a certain Sevillano chain heladería. Then, I told her about this little place. If there is any place where you can taste Seville, then it is here. Joaquín Liria has created ice creams based on some of Seville's most prominent scents: springtime's crema de flor de azahar (cream of orange blossom) and dulce de romero (rosmary), and favourite sweets: dulce de palmera, crema de Torrijas (typical of Holy Week). There is even one that tastes of Manzanilla de Sanlucar de Barameda - sherry flavour! For me it would be hard to choose a favourite: I love Dulce de Chirimoya (custard apple), which is only available towards the end of summer when the fruit is most flavoursome, and caramelly Dulce de pestiño, another sweet typical of Holy Week. There is a variety of sizes, available in scoops or little tubs (a 1-scoop cone is €2.20 and small tub €3.00). The heladería has gained press both nationally and internationally for its innovative creations, and even Great Britain's Rick Stein visited while filming his last series Rick Stein's Spain.

www.heladerialafiorentina.com
c/ Zaragoza, 16, 41001
+34 954 22 15 50
Google map: bit.ly/vfAUmd

* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/

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Bar Alfalfa

Posted by Fidge 2 October 2011

Local tapas bar in the Alfalfa neighbourhood.
Good relaxed vibe, with people spilling out into the street when it gets packed (which it easily can given the small size).

C/ Candilejo, 1 41004 Seville, Spain
+34 954 222 344
Google map: bit.ly/mZLXAV

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La Bodega

Posted by Fidge 2 October 2011

This traditional stand up tapas bar is located on Plaza Alfalfa. Above the door is a colourful tiled arch depicting a beach scene.
A very popular place with both locals and visitors alike and it quickly fills up as soon as the door opens. Offers superb value for money & allows you to try traditional Andalusian-style tapas at great prices.
A novel tapa for me was the Iberian pork liver, served cold in an olive oil marinade. The tortilla portions were massive. Staff friendly and attentive.
There are tables at the back, but most opt to stand while eating tapas and watching the football on the TV and the activity on the street outside.

Calle Alfalfa, 4 41004 Seville, Spain
Google map: bit.ly/pdCHCA
Opens: noon - 4pm & 8pm - midnight daily.

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Bodega Santa Cruz/ Las Columnas

Posted by Fidge 1 October 2011

Bodega Santa Cruz (aka Las Columnas) is a great find, just around the corner from the Giralda.
An authentic tapas bar where the good humoured bar staff chalk up your tab on the bar counter.
Food while cheap is good, and we ended up frequenting this place a few times during our stay in Seville.
Some seats outside.

C/Rodrigo Caro 1 (very near cathedral)
Open 7am - midnight daily.
Google map: bit.ly/q4Nee4

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El Rinconcillo tapas bar

Posted by Fidge 1 October 2011

An absolute gem. One of the oldest tapas bars in Seville, with a bar on the site since the late 17th century. Popular with tourists and locals alike.
Dark wood panels with seating at a minimum but great food and a great atmosphere.
You stand at the bar and order and your tab is chalked on the bar counter to keep track.
Food really good quality and not that expensive. The espinacas con garbanzos (spinach with chickpeas is particularly to be recommended.
You can book a seat at the back for the dinner menu but we much preferred the tapas menu at the bar, so much so that we returned a number of times during our stay in Seville.
While we were there there we encountered an elderly gentleman named Valentino who writes poetry on napkins and hands to people in the bar. If you do see him, buy him a glass of beer for his trouble.
We first heard about this place on Rick Stein's TV programme 'Spain'.

www.elrinconcillo.es/en/home.html
C/ Gerona 40 near Plaza Ponce de Leon
+34 954 22 31 83
Open until late every day
Google map: bit.ly/o0Hn7B


See bar featured at the start of this Youtube video on Rick Stein's Spain:.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=-fuiDcJyXfE&feature=related

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Cine Avenida 5

Posted by BecomingSevillana 6 September 2011

The perfect safe haven in the hot summer months or rainy winter weekends (yes it does rain!!). The cinema is old-style, with good choice of refreshments and pop corn and several screens. All films are in their original versions with subtitles in Spanish.

Avenida Marques de Paradas, 16
www.hoycinema.com/cartelera/cines/Avenida-5-Cines-VO-UCC.htm
+34 954 29 30 25
Google map: bit.ly/rov2jh

* BecomingSevillana is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-kim.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/BecomingSevillana.jsp
She also has her own blog: becomingsevillana.blogspot.com/

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l'Oca Giuliva

Posted by uglee 31 July 2010

Excellent Italian restaurant on Calle Matteos Gago. Two standout dishes - pasta with Italian sausage, cream and nutmeg (sounds dull, tastes of heaven - think it's the nutmeg) and a salad of strawberries, walnuts and goat's cheese. Much, much better than the (now) dreadful place in the Arab bathhouse who get you in and out REALLY fast and feed you nothing very special in, admittedly, wonderful surroundings. Go to L'Oca Giuliva instead. Friendly (although not quick) service. If you want to eat outside, go early.

Calle Matteos Gago (in Barrio Santa Cruz, leading down to the Cathedral/Giralda/Alcazar.
Calle Mateos Gago, 9, 41004 Sevilla, España
954 214 030

Google map: tinyurl.com/32gzzpo

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All around the city there are bike stations where you can rent a bike. The scheme is the same as the one running in Paris.

Use the touchscreen at the station to subscribe. You will need a credit card to do so. To subscribe costs €5 a week, and you can use the bike for 30 minutes without paying extra. Easy enough in Seville where it rarely takes more than 20 to get from one side of the centre to the other. If you do go over the 30 minute time, you will be charged about a Euro for 30 minutes.

Seville is such a flat city that cycling is easy. And with the hot weather (up to 45 degrees C. in the summer), cycling and the breeze is a lot more comfortable than walking.

There is a downside. Sevici is very popular with residents, tourists, and sadly vandals. Occasionally, either the station is empty, or the bikes have been vandalised. Also you may get to the bike station to return your bike and discover it is full. Log in with your code you were given when you subscribed and you will be able to get another 15 minutes to go to another station. There is a map available on the screen.

en.sevici.es/

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When the Euro was introduced to Spain this was generally seen as an excuse by most bars and restaurants to bump up the prices ...

Not here.

Not only is Eslava one of the cheapest places for tapas (still only about €1.80 as opposed to €3.00 for most places now), it is also one of the best. And boy does it get crowded because of it! But that is part of the charm.

And if this wasn't good enough, the staff are consistently, friendly, attentive, knowledgeable and professional. It works like a machine. Remember, Seville and customer service do not always go together.

There are a few tables but you cannot book. Just turn up, say how many you are, then wait with a glass of beer or wine. Alternatively, eat at the bar.

There is a restaurant, but it's the same food in bigger portions.

The tapas are interesting, and well prepared. My personal favourite is Pork Loin with dill sauce "Lomo con salsa eneldo".

As many a Sevillano waiter discovered when I lived there, I have high standards.

But Bar Eslava is divine.

Every time.

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Bodega de Santa Cruz

Posted by Lalbachan 22 April 2009

Bodega Santa Cruz, Las Columnas is just a stone's throw away from La Giralda and is a charming Sevillian tapas bar. This is the Andalucian tapas tradition in one stop and is well worth seeking out. The few old wooden tables set against the apricot coloured walls and the bar's trade mark columns are a perfect spot to sit and soak up the old city's life. Situated on the old cobbled Calle de Rodrigo Caro, it's the bar for anyone who loves Spanish food or wants to try something a little different. Along with fantastic coffee, the cafe cortado is particularly good. The bodega serves the local beer, Cruzcampo and a very impressive menu of tapas ranging from the familiar Spanish tortilla to rincones al jerez (kidneys cooked in a local sherry.) But one of their best is patatas alioli (a potato salad with a velvety garlic-infused mayonnaise). If you choose to eat or drink at the bar you can expect to see your bill chalked up before you on the wooden-worn bar. Also, it's cheaper to stand. Be sure to get there early for lunch for this tapas bar is so popular with the locals that the Sevillanos pour out onto the cobbled street to eat, drink and catch up in the hot Andalucian sun.

Calle de Rodrigo de Caro, Seville, Andalucia, Spain

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Bar Giralda and Bar Modesto

Posted by jamessedge 20 April 2009

Bar Giralda is a beautiful tapas bar that looks as though it hasn't changed in 60 years. The choice is staggering, and the food tastes as it should.
Bar Modesto had the best service in Seville. The waiter took a liking to us, and kept slipping us more olives, bread, Manchego cheese, wine and beer. We left to see some Flemenco with a smile and very full stomachs.

Bar Giralda (c/Mateus Gagos 1) Next to the cathedral.
Bar Modesto ((c/Canoy Cueto 5) North Santa Cruz area

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Parque del Alamillo

Posted by EloiseHorsfield 8 May 2013

This enormous park is my favourite place to relax on a sunny Seville day. It’s a bit of a way from the main attractions – if you’re in a rush then head to the more central María Luisa park. With Alamillo Park’s wide boulevards, lakes and lawns there’s loads of space for cycling, rollerblading or just lazing peacefully with a book. There is also a large bar/restaurant. Families gather there for parties, setting up camp all day with picnics, games and wine flowing freely. There are often fairs and free concerts, and on my first trip I even happened upon a dog show taking place in one corner. The children will love the miniature railway and, if you fancy it, you can even try out cableskiing.

www.parquedelalamillo.org/
Google map: bit.ly/10i7fQG

*Eloise is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her bio here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-eloise-horsfield and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/EloiseHorsfield You can also catch her on Twitter at @EloiseHorsefield

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Archivo de Indias

Posted by EloiseHorsfield 8 May 2013

This splendid 16th-century building is one of the points on Seville’s UNESCO World Heritage triangle (the other two being the cathedral and the Alcazar) – and the only one with free entry. It was built to house Seville’s main commercial operations during the Golden Age, as more and more merchandise was brought back from the Americas. Since 1785 it has been used to store documents tracing all Spain’s dealings with the New World – some 80 millions of pages of them, on 8km of shelving. While most of the exhibits (maps, posters and documents) are labelled in Spanish, there is a very interesting 15-minute video on show, with English subtitles.

Avenida de la Constitución s/n (no number), 41004 Seville
+34 954 50 05 28
Google map: bit.ly/143kXe2

*Eloise is our Been there local for Seville. You can read her bio here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/seville-local-eloise-horsfield and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/EloiseHorsfield You can also catch her on Twitter at @EloiseHorsefield

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