Spain
Walk across the Puente Isabel II to the Triana district which is full of old-style bars in narrow alleys. Triana contains the Iglesia Santa Ana, Seville’s oldest church (1260) and the Calle Betis, a wonderful street lined with tapas bars on the banks of the Guadalavirir river.
The alleyways of the Santa Cruz district wind between typical Andaluz houses with flowers on the balconies and cafés where flamenco is danced. Try and avoid the tacky tourist shops and restaurants and just wander around this former Jewish district of Seville to discover your own tranquility in the many plazas of this friendly and village-like district.
East of the Cathedral and the Alcazar
This is a tailored walking tour company operating in Seville. The owner, David, is an Englishman who has lived in Spain for some years and knows Seville intimately. For a relatively modest outlay, he brings the history of the city to life, in a fun way that is simply brilliant. It is more than a tour, it is an experience.
David took us to local tapas places (not a tourist in sight) which were just fab, not to mention cheap - the money you spend on the tour you can mostly save by eating at these spots. Next time we go we will go to one of the local flamenco evenings. Thoroughly recommended.
Their partner company also found us a great apartment to rent.
www.reallydiscover.com
0034 955 113 912 (24 hours)
There is a very interesting and innovative tour in Seville. It is a GPS audio/visual tour guide system.
You carry a handheld GPS with you as you walk anywhere. It shows you where you are and what is exciting and interesting near your location.
It is tailored to individual visitors. You are free to create your own GPS tour without the aid of an escorted guide.
I was a student for a year at La Escuela Superior de Ingenieros, based within one of the old pavilions for the Expo (92, I think). This part of the town down the north-west bank of the river seems to be largely abandoned but, as with la ESI, has some re-population following the exhibition. It is essentially a disused amusement park with a number of colourful pavilions, bridges, towers and structures that have been left, but they have a derelict, out-dated and unloved charm... not everyone's cup of tea, but they appealed to me. This project, which must have taken so much effort, has not really achieved its long-term target - I guess I felt sorry for them. The Expo pavilions from the 1929 exhibition (Parque Marie Luisa) are very popular landmarks, but the nineties versions won't last so well I suspect. They offset the traditional flamenco culture of the city centre (that can get a little too much sometimes) and make a nice hour-long walk (start at Plaza de Armas - up the east bank - over Puente Alamillo - through the Expo site - then return over Puente de la Barqueta). Or get the circular bus.
North of Triana.
As first timers in Seville, we booked an excellent walking tour on our first day. David Cox, an Englishman and resident, organises small informal groups to discover the rather more unusual history and places in this beautiful city. We loved it and it was the kind of introduction that none of our guide books could match. At our request, he also told us about some excellent places to eat that were both good value and just off the tourist trail. There is a website with details of how to book both walking and bicycle tours. Suggest you try to do this tour early in your stay and then enjoy your own sight seeing even more.
Hernan Cortés Palace, placed in Castilleja de la Cuesta, only 5 minutes from Seville, was the last place were the the conquest of Mexico lived and died.
The building from the XVI century with neomudéjar style was later bought by the duchy of Montpensier.
Just returned from a lovely week in Seville. The highlights were a very informative and enjoyable walking tour of the city by a company called 'Really Discover'. Both Luis (the guide) and David (via email) were incredibly helpful and are definitely recommended.
Also visited a restaurant called 'Naranja'. A bit out of town up near the Almeda de Hercules but worth the effort. Delicious Andalusian food in a very contemporary setting.
Tour - www.reallydiscover.com/
Restaurant - www.cocinanaranja.com/mozilla.html
Evening tours of the city. Carmen takes you on a singing tour of the city, visiting many of the places mentioned in Bizet's opera (the tobacco factory is now the University). She has a wonderful voice and makes the place come alive. Does not perform every night.
Departs daily except Tuesday and Sunday at 7pm from the corner of Calle Sto. Thomas and Calle Miguel Mañara, near the Alcazar entrance. What you pay is up to you. For more details check with the main tourist hotels.
Named after Christopher Columbus, this river plays host to tourist steamers and pedal boats. On the weekends, the enchanting paseo is bustling with couples enjoying a romantic stroll and Spanish families dressed in their Sunday best. The scenic view across the river offers Andaluz houses with wrought-iron balconies.
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