Cafe de las Horas just off Plaza de la Virgen boasts a giddy Baroque décor of velvet wall hangings, ornate candelabras and trompe d'oiels. Garlands of flowers and yet more candles lurk in musky corners. Camp waiters float to your side and present you with a menu offering an impressive range of spiced teas, silky alcoholic coffees and potent but delicious cocktails.

Calle de Almodóvar, 1

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