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The festival of La Tomatina in Spain gives new meaning to the expression 'playing with your food'. For most of the year, Buñol is a ho-hum industrial town, about 40km (25m) from Valencia, quietly going about its own business. But come the last Wednesday of August, the town's streets turn into a salsa riot, with over 20,000 revellers pelting each other with large, red, squishy tomatoes.
There are lots of theories on how the festival started; one is that it began in 1945 with anti-Franco protests, although any link between Franco and tomatoes remains ambigous. Another theory is that it started when two friends had a stand-up knock-down argument while sharing a meal. The argument quickly reached food-throwing proportions, infected acquaintances and nearby diners, moved out into the street, spread through the suburbs, progressed to neighbouring towns and eventually wound up as an annual event that attracted 'mata throwers from all corners of the the world.
The most likely explanation is that it started as a juvenile class war between bare-footed Troskyist macarras and el-ivy leaguers staying at Papa's summer house, the latter passing the former in a provocative way - that is to say, within tomato-throwing range. Like gangs of adolescents anywhere, it soon became a point of honour and a mark of tribal loyalty to make a stand at the tomato-stained barriers. As the event turned into a national event it lost its hostile political edge and became, instead, an unbridled Dionysian riot of flesh-baring bodies covered head to toe in tomato goo.
The standard uniform is an old T-shirt, old shorts and eye goggles. T-shirts with bullseyes printed on them are not recommended. Nearly 140 tonnes of tomatoes are trucked in from around the countryside and the argy-bargy begins with the firing of a rocket. An hour later the end of the festival is announced with the firing of another rocket and the clean up of the tomato-slimed streets begin.
La Tomatina takes place in Buñol, a small town about 40km (about 25 miles) west of Valencia and well connected by train and bus.
On the last Wednesday of August, at the peak of tomato season, between 10 am and 1 pm. Everybody enjoys and the streets turn into rivers of tomato juice.
www.latomatina.org/
Nit in Vela is Valencia's answer to the White Nights that have taken pace in other European cities, such as Rome, Paris, Madrid and Barcelona in recent years.
On the 31st of March, from 8pm, for over eight hours several of the major thoroughfares and plazas, and particularly the Rio Turia, Valencia's wonderful Park, will see over thirty spectaculars. From theatre to music to dance to acrobatics and fireworks. It's all to celebrate the beginning of the America's Cup, which takes place from April to July in the port.
The historic centre of Valencia, For much more information on the event and all things Valencia. www.thisisvalencia.com/newinvalencia.html
Up to 2 million visitors in Fallas to watch some of the most incredible firework displays, both day and night.
Yes, daytime fireworks, or Máscletas, a display of noise and smoke mainly, so loud you are advised to keep your mouth open to avoid bursting your eardrums!
To see examples of a Mascletà, click the link, if you are not at work, turn the volume up to experience them properly!
The 15th of March sees the beginning, in Valencia, of what has to be one of the most spectacular and exciting five days in the whole of Europe.
Fallas is the most extraordinary festival, celebrated only in the Comunidad de Valencia and mainly in the city itself. Supposedly originating from a time way back when carpenters would chuck out old offcuts of wood into the street and set fires to welcome spring - the festival has grown into a feast for all the senses.
www.thisisvalencia.com/fallas-intro.html or for a really in depth look at Fallas www.thisisvalencia.com/news4.html
It is a music festival held every year in Benicassim, which is around 50 miles north of Valencia on the coast. It attracts around 35000 people, with bands as diverse as Franz Ferdinand, Madness, Placebo, Soulwax, and Rufus Wainwright. I recommend it as it is the best organised festival that I have been to. There is a diversity of music, good facilities, free camping and 3 miles of beach. There is a great atmosphere at the venue, with around 60% of people Spanish, 30% British, and 10% from other European countries. A 3-day pass costs £99 and flights from the UK are £100 approx to either Valencia or Barcelona. It is like a combinaton of Glastonbury and Ibiza, and there is generally a great vibe!
Likely to be one of the more popular festival options for the Glastonbury exiles heading overseas this year.
A combination of four-day festival, campsites practically on the beach plus after-show party on the beach on the fifth day, diverse European crowd, Spanish sunshine, numerous stages, a broad range of music genres, plus other contemporary arts such as film, theatre and fashion also represented, oh and did I mention the beach?!
Headliners for Summer 2006 include The Pixies, Depeche Mode, Morrissey, Scissor Sisters, however the big names seem to be in the minority, with the festival more in favour of championing more alternative artists to cater across the musical spectrum. With some quality bands and DJ talent performing, this year is guaranteed to be a stormer.
www.fiberfib.com
Benicassim is located on the Costa Azahar, one of Spain's less-developed Costas. About an hour north of Valencia and a couple of hours south of Barcelona, flight options are plentiful.
Can't believe this hasn't been posted yet. Glad to be the one. Annual tomato fight lasting about two hours. The last Wednesday of August. About 10.30 in the morning. Bring old clothes, a change of clothes and a disposable camera. That's all I can say. Just go.
In the town of Bunol, about an hour west of Valencia on the train. Just get yourself to the train station in Valencia early in the morning. Follow the crowds;
www.thisisvalencia.com/thetomatinafesti.html
Great fun and a wonderful occasion (despite all the Australians). But a few useful tips...
1. Catch an early train (if based in Valencia). The trains run every hour, but on Tomatina day they run every half hour. They don’t tell you this, but the trains get full quickly (20,000+ people!), and they only allow a certain number onto the platform for each train, so you pretty much inevitably miss your train and end up on the next one. Not a problem, but Tomatina starts at 11:00 and if you assume you will get on the train you want you might miss it.
2. Don’t take anything! Everyone we met afterwards had something stolen (including us) from pockets, bumbags, rucksacks, cars. Take 10 euros for a beer and the train home, put it somewhere very safe (and very waterproof) And that’s it!
3. Don’t hang around in the town after the fight has finished, looking for where the action is... everyone is back up at the train station partying.
4. Wear goggles! At least when it gets a bit wild, and the ripped t-shirts and sandals start flying. My love got hit in the eye within the first minute and spent the next days getting sympathy for a blackeye, while I got dirty looks!
5. Have fun. It’s the best experience ever!
Bunol village about 30 minutes' train ride from Valencia (7.5 euros return) - although the journey can take 50 minutes on Tomatina day.
A pleasant and cheap hotel located in a quiet town. Located 5 minutes from the small but nice beach, it is handy for commuting to the FIB festival (provided you have a car - there are buses though). Friendly staff and it's disabled friendly (there were a group staying there).
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