The Haga district in Gothenburg is like stepping into a fairytale town. Having explored Kungsportavenyn (the Avenue) and the inner city area of Gothenburg, I was starting to get tourist fatigue. Craving some greenery, we headed for Slottsskogen, a vast and beautiful open space littered with open-air zoos, restaurants, and grand oak trees. It was on our walk there that we inadvertently stumbled across the Haga district. It was like walking straight into a fairytale; cobbled lanes with secrets to tell, tired looking shop fronts dripping with vintage nick-nacks, and row after row of delicious coffee shops. Far removed from the hustle and bustle of the city centre, the Haga district emanates calmness and coolness, welcoming both tourists and locals alike. It felt like I'd wandered into the heart of a local Swedish tow, and was being welcomed as a regular, rather than just another visitor. Besides soaking up the atmosphere of the Haga district, it implores you to engage in the serious business of 'fika', right beside the locals. Fika, the Swedish practice of taking a break usually with coffee and cake, is best enjoyed in Cafe Husaren where they offer great coffee and the biggest, most generous cinnamon rolls. They were literally bigger than my head - not for the faint hearted. Although, after exploring the many cute cobbled streets and shabby chic shops, it's a well-deserved break. The attitude of this place offers a really unique edge to the city of Gothenburg, I would strongly recommend a visit, no matter how brief your trip.

www.cafehusaren.se/
Haga Nygata 28, 411 22 Gbg
+46(0)31 136 378
Google map: bit.ly/rstpLh

www.goteborgairport.se/eng/info/resenaerer/buss.asp
www.goteborg.com/en/

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Haga is an older part of town with wooden houses, once for the poorer inhabitants of Gothenburg and now an uber-fashionable place to live. With many trendy shops there is one particular cafe along Haga Nygata (the main street). The cafe is called Cafeva and serves home-made food and soups, excellent coffees, teas and hot chocolates. The decor is homely and it has a very friendly atmosphere. A must for any visitor to Gothenburg.

Haga Nygata, tram stop Jarntorget or Hagakyrkan.

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Lovely youth hostel near the coast on the island of Orust. Good accommodation, shared or family rooms (largest about 5 people) in old buildings, or hytter in the garden. Summer restaurant.

Walk down the garden to the sea, or into the village nearby to buy fresh fish, crab or lobster. Alternatively cross the road into the coastal woodland.

There are excellent public transport links to local towns (Ellos, Mollusund and Henan), and ferries to the islands of Gulholmen and Karingdon for swimming, sunbathing, walking and people watching or eating fresh Dublin Bay prawns.

Accessible from Goteborg by public tranport (bus stop 50m). If you arrive late (by car), they will leave your key to collect in the porch. It may be worth getting YHA/HI membership as the supplement for non-members is 45 SEK (£3.50) per night.

www.toftagard.se/

STF Tofta gård/Orust
Tofta gård,
Stocken,
Ellös
47492
Sweden
Tel: 46-304-50380
Fax: 46-304-50298
info@toftagard.se

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Midsummer is the longest day and I spent one of the most beautiful nights ever on a beach watching the light not fade. And, if you like seafood, chardonnay and vodka, the crayfish festival is the best way to round off the summer. I lived in Gothenburg for five years and to me it is the heart of Sweden. If you go to Sweden, go to Gothenburg.

The annual crayfish parties are held throughout Sweden on Midsummer's Eve in June.

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