Fantastic and underrated modern art museum/ gallery on Djurgarden (past the huge tourist destination, Vasa Museum). Every year it hosts about four exhibitions of contemporary and modern art.

We were there for an exhibition of Alberto Giacometti and it was amazing to see 'Walking Man 1' in full height. His drawing and paintings were an absolute revelation and it was a great way of spending the afternoon.

Djurgårdsvägen 60
STOCKHOLM
www.liljevalchs.stockholm.se

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Just north of Stockholm is Linnaeus' garden. It is also the 300th anniversary of his birth this year so there are exhibitions about him. He was the man who intoduced the notion of species and genus etc.

www.linnaeus.uu.se/LTeng.html

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This is Sweden's national gallery and shows a wide range of work from the middle ages to the start of the twentieth century.

Like the other countries in Scandinavia, Sweden's painters especially loved landcape and nature, and there are many beautiful examples of this kind of work. The murals on the grand staircase are by Carl Larsson.

Nationalmuseum, a short walk from Gustav Adolf's Torg (city centre) westwards, along the waterfront, past the Opera House.

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The theatre offers a very wide programme each year of new and classic plays, often in radical productions. Last season's production of Macbeth (in Swedish - well, you know the story) was set at the time of the Great War, and was highly imaginative and wholly convincing.

Drama in Sweden has a long and distinguished history, and the high quality of work at the national theatre is a reflection of this tradition.

The website is clear, well illustrated and easy to use.

City centre, short walk, or subway to Ostermalmstorg. www.dramaten.se

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Norway is what's usually considered the main 'Viking' country, Sweden also has a fascinating Viking past. It's amazing to see how the Swedes have turned around to become one of the most peaceful nations on Earth. Sweden has a rich history that is definetely worth a look at.

www.travel--guide.org/Stockholm

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I love Cafe String. It's a really cosy retro-cafe with huge windows made for people-watching. And all the things in there, furniture included, are for sale.

Cafe String, Nytorgsgatan 38, Stockholm.
Tel : (00 45) 8 714 8514.
www.cafestring.com

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The Skansen is an open air museum but one that won't scare you: over 150 relocated historic buildings from all over Sweden. Those open are attended by informative people in costume of the period of the house. Bears and other wild animals will captivate the children. Allow a whole day. 50Kr per person, children free but there is a 20 Kr discount with the travel card. Times vary: to end of April: 10.00-16.00; May: 10.00-20.00; June- Aug: 10.00-22.00.

Nearby is the Nordiska Museet of Swedish history and life: again don't be put off by the name and content. (free).

Moderna Museet and Arkitektmuseet are free and on Skeppsholmen: great collections (especially the models in the architecture museum) all in Rafael Moneo's building. T/W: 10.00-20.00; Thur-Sun: 10.00-18.00

Skansen located on Djurgårdsslätten, use bus 47, 44 or better the tram line 7 (try the café tram).

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No visit to Stockholm is complete without a visit to this outdoor museum of Swedish life. They have everything from Swedish houses, crafts, cultures and also a zoo complete with Swedish bears, reindeer and wolves. This would also be great for families.

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There are lots of great museums in Stockholm. Nordiska museet (The Museum of Nordic history) is my favourite, located in a colossal 19th century building on Djurgarden island in central Stockholm. Just to see the building is worth the trip and Djurgarden is the most beautiful part of central Stockholm. Note that most museums are closed on Mondays and most of them are free to visit.

Nordiska museet, Djurgardsvagen 6-16, next to the bridge.
Telephone : (00 46) 8519 546 00 or (00 46) 8457 06 60 (Swedish and English 24-hour line).

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A lot of the state museums in Stockholm have gone to free entry this year (2005). NB NOT the Vasa or Skansen. Bear this in mind before paying out for a Stockholm card... It does make it easier on the budget and means you can more happily drop in for a short visit. A couple (notably the Nordic Museum and the National Gallery) have rather thwarted the intention by organizing parts of their collections as "special exhibitions" and charging for those, but others are basking in their new popularity. Try the Historiska Museum for its Viking and medieval displays - or at least its collection of viking etc gold in the strongroom in the basement, or the Etnografiska Museum (ie most of the world outside Europe's cultures) which has very atmospheric displays addressing modern impacts as well as traditional ways, and is much more interactive and lively than its title suggests.

Historiska Museet. Narvavagen - five minutes walk up from the Djurgarden bridge.
Etnografiska Museet. Out on the side of Djurgarden furthest from the city centre: bus 69. I'ts in open parkland, with the Technical and the Maritime museums and the TV tower nearby.

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