The palace in Stockholm is well worth the SEK 120 admission fee - it was one of the highlights of our stay in the city. For a little extra grandeur and spectacle, try to catch the changing of the guard which takes place at 12.10pm (1.10pm on Sundays).

Slottskajen, Gamla Stan

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It's 100 giant outdoor photos of wildlife from all over the world. you can see it at even at night.

The photos are huge, incredible, and moving, and the whole exhibition is easy to find, and free!

Raoul Wallenbergs Torg. Really central.

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One of Sweden's main national parks and a true wilderness is only 20km from the centre of Stockholm. It is perfect for summertime walks and berry picking or cross-country skiing in winter, with many special tracks to follow. There is also an historic village with museum and cafe.

Tyresta National Park is an easy drive out of the city. Or take the 807 bus from Gullmarsplan tube station to Svartbäcken. Change there for the 834 to Tyresta. The buses are easy to use.

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the bastard Right have taken over

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Tivoli is a huge funfair on Djurgarden island, opposite the main Skansen entrance, with great views across to Gamla Stan and Sodermalm. The entry prices are a bit cheeky, as you pay to get in, only to find everything costs extra. If you have a Stockholm or Tourist card, however, initial entry is free. #

Tivoli isn't a particularly classy, or clean establishemnt but it makes for an exciting end to a Djurgarden day trip - a 180kr evening wristband gets you on all the decent rides between 7pm and midnight, when the park empties out and queues are short. Go on half a dozen rides, in particular the impressive Jetline, and it's value for money.

Get to Djurgarden via the 44 and 47 buses from Sergel Torg, the No. 7 tram from Ostermalm, or the ferry from Slussen. All journeys are free with the 72hr Tourist Card.

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Skeppsholmen is a tiny island best reached by crossing Skeppsholmsbron, a bridge from the Blasieholmen district (where the Nationalmuseum is, which might be worth a visit - check what exhibitions are on). Skeppsholmen is good for a pleasant stroll, and to see the exhibits at the Moderna Museet, which is the Tate Modern of Stockholm. Skeppsholmen also is home to af Chapman, Sweden's most famous youth hostel, a huge ship that, with its masts rigged, is a famous Stockholm landmark.

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Gamla Stan is the old town of Stockholm, with narrow cobbled little streets. Lots of medieval history and the Royal Castle, Storkyrkan (oldest church in town), and Stortorget (where the bloodbath of Stockholm took place in the 16th century. Check out the red brick building with white stones on one side of the square - the white stones denote how many people got their head chopped off. Nice!).

There are plenty of medieval cafes to head into for lunch or fika (morning or afternoon tea/coffee break) - sitting sipping hot chocolate in a medieval stone cellar complete with arches and stuff is exciting for most people. Chokladkoppen on Stortorget is always good, and so is Kaffegillet on Trångsund.

Västerlånggatan is the main drag, but sadly quite touristy these days. But if you're in the business of getting some reindeer slippers or the like, this is where to go. Österlånggatan is nicer, with little antiques shops and galleries. Next to Gamla Stan is Riddarholmen, which also has lots of history. The Parliament and the beautiful Riddarholmskyrkan church are located here.

Good places for food/drink:
Pontus in the Green House on Österlånggatan (good for lunch) - traditional Swedish cuisine but with an exotic twist.
Pontus by the Sea on Skeppsbrokajen (good for lunch) - see above.
Grill Ruby on Österlånggatan (lunch) - brasserie.
Källaren Movitz on Tyska Brinken – doesn’t look that special, but the restaurant downstairs is good for Swedish food.
Järnet Matsal & Bar on Österlånggatan is cosy and does good food.
Engelen/Kolingen on Kornhamnstorg - a nice old-school type of place where you're pretty much guaranteed to get a good night out.

Walk from Norrmalm along Drottninggatan towards the Houses of Parliament, or northwards from Slussen.

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In summer, this is the perfect spot for grabbing a drink and watching people go by. I always go here when the weather is nice and stay for hours.

T Medborgarplatsen

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There are lots of great museums in Stockholm. Nordiska museet (The Museum of Nordic history) is my favourite, located in a colossal 19th century building on Djurgarden island in central Stockholm. Just to see the building is worth the trip and Djurgarden is the most beautiful part of central Stockholm. Note that most museums are closed on Mondays and most of them are free to visit.

Nordiska museet, Djurgardsvagen 6-16, next to the bridge.
Telephone : (00 46) 8519 546 00 or (00 46) 8457 06 60 (Swedish and English 24-hour line).

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Vasastaden - nice area for a wander around in. Lots of nice old buildings, nice little independent shops and good for going out. Observatorielunden above the Stockholm City Library is a nice park with great views.

A nice walk is to start at Karlbergs Station, or the St Eriksplan tube stop nearby, and head down to the water, and follow Norr Mälarstrand along the north side of the Riddarfjärden canal. You'll pass through a park called Rålambshovsparken and eventually end up at the City Hall (with its three golden crowns), where the Nobel Prize dinner and ceremony takes place every December. Climb up it if you want, or head off to Gamla Stan for more.

Good places for going out around here are Tranan on Karlbergsvägen (just by Odenplan tube) which is a good hang-out place. Nice food and good music during the day, and a great bar at night.

Storstad on Odengatan (also Odenplan tube) is also a good bar, with good food for lunch and dinner. La Habana on Sveavägen (Odenplan/Rådmansgatan tube) is excellent for mojitos and all things Cuban and is a pretty good place to spend an evening. Paladar de Cuba is another cool Caribbean offering closeby, on Tegnergatan (also Rådmansgatan tube).

St Eriksplan/Odenplan tube

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A brilliant hands-on museum charting the history of musical instruments. There’s an interesting range of traditional Swedish instruments, alongside an array of harps, guitars and drums that you’re encouraged to pluck, strum and bang and just generally make a noise. There’s even a karaoke basement where you can dress up in wigs and belt out a few Abba numbers.

Sibyllegatan 2;
tel: 8 519 554 90;
nearest station is Östermalmstorg
www.musikmuseet.se

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