The Hotel Bolgenschanze is a no-frills snowboarders' hostel with very friendly staff. It doubles as a bar and nightclub with DJs or live bands most nights until late - it also usually offers bunches of tipsy snowboarders moshing energetically to an eclectic mix of hip-hop, indie music and krautrock.

Instead of pool tables, there's a tree trunk, a box full of nails and a hammer - all that you need to play nageln. The purpose of the game is to hammer four nails into the trunk with the fewest blows - the loser buys a round of shots. I ended up buying a lot of shots. Other bars, slightly quieter but with similar clientele are the small and cosy Rotliechtli and the Bolgenplaza where you can drink and watch the crazier snowboarders trying to kill themselves on the floodlit halfpipe.

The Bolgenschanze is situated at the base of the Jakobshorn ski area which is the most popular with boarders as it's all chairlifts (apart from one, long drag that is worth the pain for the off-piste it opens up). With a little bit of hiking, it also has one of the best off-piste rides - an awesome, steep off-piste descent from the top of the Jatzhorn down to Teufi where you can get a bus back into Davos.

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