This family run four-star hotel offers a three-day Christmas package which is just magical! Kandersteg is the archetypal Swiss village set in a deep valley and blanketed with snow in winter. We stayed in the Ruedihus, a 300-year-old chalet (think Heidi, but bigger and more comfortable) with beautiful antique Swiss furniture and home-made Bircher muesli for breakfast, but had full use of the facilities of the main hotel 10 minutes walk away, including a luxury fitness centre with gym, sauna and heated indoor and outdoor pool. Tea and cake were served every afternoon in the country house-style lounge with open log fire and luxurious sofas. During the seven-course gala dinner on Christmas Eve, hosted by the owner and his family, there was an interlude where we all sang Christmas carols and every guest received a gift from under the Christmas tree. Later, the hotel mini bus transported everyone who wished to the candlelit Christmas Eve service in the tiny village church. On Christmas Day the 'Pelzmartiga' (local men dressed in furs and medieval costumes) roamed the streets, rattling chains and ringing bells to chase away evil spirits. Another gala dinner on Christmas evening rounded off a perfect Swiss Christmas - unforgettable!

www.doldenhorn-ruedihus.ch
CH-3718 Kandersteg
+00 41 33 675 81 81

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Teatro Dimitri is a small family theatre based in Verscio in the Centovalli - Ticino. It is the opposite to SERIOUS switzerland. Try and book up for "Canti popolare nel ticino." No yodelling or thigh slapping, just Dimitri and Roberto singing together.

www.teatrodimitri.ch
+41 (0)91 796 24 14
6653 Verscio, Switzerland
Google map: bit.ly/qniaPm

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Lucerne is only 45 minutes (with the railway) from Zurich. There is the beautiful Lake Lucerne, which has mountains around it and a famous old town. It is not so overcrowded as Zurich and much more relaxed. You can swim in the lake either in the lido (for a fee) or the equally beautiful "Ufschütti" (for free). The "Ufschütti" is near the railway station (ask for the way, many people in Lucerne speak English). You can also make boat trips on the lake, climb one of the many mountains around the lake or visit the old town.

With the train from Zurich Mainstation to Lucerne (every 30 minutes a train). www.luzern.com/en/
Google map: bit.ly/qqiXmg

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Each year Basel in Switzerland holds its Fastnacht which is three days of processions, small bands wandering the streets playing piccolos and drums and people in costume reciting stories in cafes. There is a lot of fun and mayhem with a lot of confetti thrown (being Swiss it is cleaned up very quickly.) This year the carnival starts on 14th March it always begins at 4am in the market place. Everywhere is very dark and quiet then at 4am precisely a procession of lanterns comes into the square, the drummers start drumming and the piccolos are played.The square is filled with light and sound. It is magical and a true feast for eyes and ears.
I lived in Basel some years ago and have never forgotten the magic of their carnival.

www.basel.ch/en/
Google map: bit.ly/g8uiRr

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On the Sunday night after Mardi Gras, start the Swiss Fasnacht celebration by visiting the small and sleepy town of Liestal. On that day though, the town will not appear sleepy at all, as it is the day of the Chienbäse parade. This tradition dates back to the 16th century and involves the town’s strongmen and women carrying burning broomsticks through the city to chase away the evil spirits. If that is not enough excitement, watch the flames of huge wagons piled up high with burning wood licking the roof of the narrow town gate. Surely, health and safety regulations in most countries would not allow a parade of that kind!
Continue the celebration of a different carnival, maybe less cheerful but wonderfully spooky and impressive, at precisely 4am on Monday after Ash Wednesday. Experience a city coming to life in the dark, as all street-lights are switched off to fully appreciate the groups of Fasnächtler meandering through the crowded streets of Basel, carrying beautifully hand-crafted lanterns on their heads and in their hands. Accompanied by drums and piccolo flutes, the lanterns wander through the city displaying current issues of interest in politics, world and local, usually in a mocking and sarcastic way. The Fasnächtler are disguised wearing the Larve (traditional mask), which are usually rather ugly and scary – so be prepared to jump if one of these comes up from behind in a dark city backstreet, as there are no fixed routes and a group can turn up anywhere you walk. Finish this early morning experience in a Beize (pub) with a traditional meal of Mehlsuppe (flour soup), Chäsweihe (delicious Swiss cheese quiche) or Zwiebelkuchen (onion quiche), and watch all the locals wandering off to work.

www.fasnacht.ch
www.fasnacht-liestal.ch
Google map: bit.ly/gZgLF3

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Stop at the first ski lodge in Italy.
The prosecco is cheaper than anything in Zermatt and the pannini excellent.
Most of all the juxtaposition of the order in Switzerland with the chaotic scramble and shouting is a laugh riot.

'Highway 7' (Run 7 on the Zermatt\Cervinia ski map), bottom of the blue run.
www.cervinia.it/pages/Home_i_en/211

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Nothing in Saas Fee is cheap, they will soon be charging for breathing. The resort sure is stunning though, especially when you find little places like this.
On the way down from a hard day's riding, pop into the Gletschergrotte. It's a small restaurant/ bar on the way down. They serve well priced drinks and nice but not budget priced meals. I would recommend getting a nice beer or gluewine or two, before riding down to the village.
Just be careful of pisters as the runs may have closed while you have been enjoying your beer!

Just off run 4b (the blue run down to the village) www.gletschergrotte.ch/
Chalet am Brunnen, 3906 Saas Fee
+41279572160
Google map: bit.ly/ehEDa4

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this is a recommendation for a cheap eat in the ridiculously expensive resort of saas fee. At the bottom of the main lift area below the "platjen" lift there is the no1 bar. Everyday it has the biggest pan you have ever seen cooking one dish. They change the dish daily and it is really good. nasi goreng was amazing! whats better is that it is only 10 francs which is a real bargain when a crappy margerine, ham and gherkin sandwich will set you back 5.5 francs in the supermarket!

Google map: bit.ly/faKFXT

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The largest alpine thermal spa in Europe, with 10 indoor and outdoor pools on four levels, ranging from blissfully warm to an almost-can't-stand-it natural cave watery sauna at 43 degrees. Water jets pummel and massage every part of your body. Family friendly, with a huge curly waterslide for children. And the view! At 1400 meters high, you can stare across the valleys to the Matterhorn as you soak away the days' hiking (summer) or skiing (winter). In a word (or two) watery bliss.

Burgerbad, Rathausstrasse 32, CH-3954 Leukerbad
www.burgerbad.ch/en/welcome.cfm
+41 (0) 27 472 20 20,
Google map: bit.ly/hFHLUE

Fly to Geneva and then the train/coach link takes you straight to Leukerbad.
Better still, do the whole journey by rail; eurostar, French rail to Lausanne, change for train to Leuk; a coach meets every train for the final stunning ascent into Leukerbad. Lots of hotels and self-catering to choose from.

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Chateau de Chillon rests on a small island on the shores of Lac Leman (Lake Geneva). The lake itself is hemmed in on all sides by hills that rapidly rise into snow-tipped mountains. The castle's gothic night-time appearance is said to have inspired some of the passages in Mary Shelley's 'Frankenstein's Monster'. Similarly, the story of François de Bonivard, a Genevan monk held captive in the castle's dungeons for four years by the Savoys, was the inspiration behind Byron's poem 'The Prisoner of Chillon'. Byron carved his initials into the pillar where he believed Bonivard to have been chained. Now, the castle is open to be explored, from the depths of its dungeons to the towers where you can look out on the lake and the mountainous peaks around.

www.chillon.ch/en/
Avenue de Chillon 21, CH 1820 Veytaux
+41 21 966 89 10
Google map: bit.ly/fZKVdL
en.wikisource.org/wiki/The_Prisoner_of_Chillon#Sonnet_on_Chillon

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After a bracking walk along Lake Zurich in winter this is one of the best places to find a warm drink or even a glass of champagne and while away some time. Set in the heart of the old town this Cafe-Conditorei serves an excellent selection teas and coffees, the hot chocolate with cream on top is particularly good. Set on three different levels, each with a distinct feel, with the cafe at the front with an amazing selection of sweet treats on offer and a smart bar at the rear. My favorite place to find a seat is the luxuriously appointed middle level. Gold-gilted chairs with soft velvety cusions, low-beamed ceiling and plush carpet all add to the cosy atmosphere. If you are lucky someone will be playing the piano to help you while away your time.

Napfgasse 4, 8001, Zurich.
Tel: +41 44 251 51 50
www.cafe-conditorei-schober.ch
Google map: bit.ly/a5tJHL
Nearest tram stop is Rathaus.

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A new milestone in architecture another famous project designed by Herzog & De Meuron in Allschwil near Basel.

Gewerbestrasse, CH-4123 Allschwil, www.artbasel-gallery.ch/pub-art-actelion-business-center.htm
Bus Stop: Im Brühl, Allschwil

Google map: bit.ly/aM8Tzh

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In the heart of the old town a popular local haunt, small enough to be intimate and decorated in the local wooden style. Almost everything comes with rosti, the ubiquitous Swiss 'hash brown' (grated, pan-fried potato) such as steak, sausage, kidney and liver, plus there's a viable selection of vegetarian courses, a pasta (described as dumplings) with Swiss cheese and mixed vegetables was delicious. Wines are by the glass and carafe and feature Swiss reds.

Marktgasse 19, 8001 Zürich,
+41 (0)44 251 29 91
Google map: bit.ly/9gNw6o

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Lugano is a beautiful city but it's hard to do it justice if you're not on a banker's salary.

One surprisingly cheap option is to hire one of the boats on the waterfront and explore the lake. The views are wonderful and you can make it over to restaurants on the other side.

Just walk along the main waterfront, the hire places are easy to spot.

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Zermatt is the most special place in the Alps. The colours in the autumn are fabulous, the sun and blue sky in summer make a perfect holiday. With the Matterhorn dominating the skyline it is the most perfect place for walking.

Alpine Walks Zermatt do custom holidays for groups as small as four people. Either stay in a luxury hotel with a spa (as we did) or they will lead walks from mountain hut to mountain hut. Perfect for a family or a couple of couples.

www.AlpineZermatt.com

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Fighting cows, stunning views, and huge wedges of homemade cake make this homely alp herdsman's dairy farm turned walkers refuge unmissable. Nestling 2000m up on summer alpine pastures above the Rhone on the Tour de Mont Blanc, Bovine route, the refuge offers great meals, giant bowls of hot chocolate or coffee, and those cakes. You can even stay in the simple dortoir accomodation if the walk up was all too much. Swiss Valais fighting cows are the serious celebities here with pride of place for the Reine des Reines champion adorned with a huge traditional cow bell and giant floral headress. The heats of this sumo style pushing contest are on the alps, with the final down in Martigny in the valley. Photos of past champions adorn the farmhouse kitchen, and the young pretenders are in the fields.

Alpage de Bovine, on the Tour de Mont Blanc Bovine route between Champex and Col de Forclaz. Good public transport to either end, then a couple of hours walk.

ALPAGE DE BOVINE
Buvette et petite restauration + dortoir, ouvert de mai à octobre. Renseignements Gérard Rouiller
La Fontaine CH 1921 MARTIGNY-COMBE
Tél mobile de mi-mai à mi-septembre : 079/894.31.21
E-mail : bagerra78@hotmail.com

Google map: tinyurl.com/ycuhcaw

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There are so many good reasons to visit this alpine restaurant it's hard to choose one for the top of the list. For me it was the summer journey from Interlaken, through the 'valley of seven waterfalls' and up the 10,000 foot mountain on a series of trains, funiculars and cable cars, each with a view wider and brighter than the last. There are plenty of places to get off and use your legs, but I enoyed the ride so much that my walking boots never hit the path.
The Piz Gloria restaurant sits at the top, revolving gently through 360 degrees, so your mouthfuls of rosti, buttery pastries and coffee are interrupted by gasps and gulps as the gleaming peaks of two hundred mountains are rolled out before you.
If you're there early enough, you can even have a 007 buffet breakfast - this was the baddie's lair in the film 'On Her Majesty's Secret Service'.

Schilthorn Cableway Ltd
Hoheweg 2, 3800 Interlakenn.ch

www.schilthorn.ch

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Its a café, bar and book store. Cool place close to the Limmat.

www.spheres.cc/
Hardturmstrasse 66
CH-8005 Zürich
044 440 66 22

Google map: tinyurl.com/ygh4owe

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Hard to reach but this will be the most earned drink you will find. The Refuge L'Espace is atop the glacier of Les Diablerets, around 3000m. Clad in sheet aluminium to stormproof it, it is equipped with wood burner, well stocked bar, food such as Baked Thom cheese with basil leaves and truffle oil, and barbecues built into tables over which to braise your plates of raw goat and vegetables. Leftovers are fed to a resident Lammergeir - its enormous - a 3m wingspan cruising low over the terrace is truly spectacular. Also known to fly around here, though a little smaller, are humans in wingsuits. Then ski down powder fields to the Combe d'Audon for over a kilometre of vertical drop red run to make any thighs burn. Oh, and it's open already for the winter season!

Between Aigle and Gstaad. Then up the cablecars from Pillon.
www.refuge-espace3000.ch

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The last stop on the way back from the Klein Matterhorn, and a great place to be after a hard day on the slopes. There's always a fantastic atmosphere, with live music, and a lively crowd, and a great mix of ages and nationalities. Skiing in is relatively easy, but skiing out again may prove more tricky, especially if you've sampled one of their skis laden with toffee vodka shots!

On Run 50 from Klein Matterhorn
www.hennustall.ch/
tel. 027 966 35 10

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