- Tanzania
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When changing pounds sterling or dollars to Tanzanian shillings in a exchange bureau, large denominations get a better exchange rates. This is not so in banks, but banks take ages! (two hours in Bagamoyo)
There are a series of private campsites in the Ngorongoro conservation area and Serengeti National Park. They cost a little more than the 'public' campsite but are better located, more off the beaten track and away from the crowds. In some areas you can even do walking safaris.
Summits Africa is a Kilimanjaro operator that provides essential safety devices - oxygen, pulse oximetry, mountain sickness scorecard monitoring and so on, all as standard on all trips (they also do Mt Kenya). Their safaris are also a little more off the beaten track as they prefer to practise 'leave no trace' camping trips to places like the Serengeti and Lake Natron.
www.summits-africa.com info@summits-africa.com
+255 784 522090
This small shop in a dead-end street just off Haile Selassie in Msasani sells all sorts of produce that will warm the hearts of caricature Guardian readers: organic nuts, seeds and other foods including excellent jams; hand woven textiles; products made of recycled materials. Excellent service and fair prices attract a wide clientele, but obviously mainly catering to the large local expat community.
Tel: 0744 847 312
e: joyce_lyapanga@hotmail.com
www.lutoni.com
All the possible processes in fish trading can be seen in one place. The catch is landed from boats onto the shore, from where it goes straight to the auction section to be sold to wholesalers. From there it is a quick trip across the road, past the stalls selling shells and other fishy artefacts and to the retail section.
At the back the fish is fried in a haze of fire and smoke and ready for selling to the public.
On the shore and at the end of Ocean Drive where it turns into Kivukoni Front
If you are looking at visiting Kilwa, you will already know that these two islands nearby are home to a series of interesting historic sites. It is worth noting that both of the islands can be visited on a single day without undue pressure of time. If you charter a dhow and hire a guide, take a picnic lunch to enjoy on the trip between the two islands. If you are lucky it will be in a dhow under sail and lunches don't get much better scenery than this.
Ask your hotel/resort in Kilwa Masoko to make arrangements
Just outside the 'centre' of Kilwa Masoko (ie. a 10-15 minute walk), this collection of ensuite chalets sits in grounds on a headland with amazing views over the sandy bay of Kilwa Masoko and towards Kilwa Kisiwani island.
The resort is very professionally managed and keen to make visitors welcome. Activities organised by the resort - tours, diving, etc - seem very well organised and reasonably priced. There is a special path from the resort down to the beach. The restaurant is recommended, too.
tel: 022 265 0250/1
e: info@kilwa.net
www.kilwa.net
A great location on a high bluff overlooking the Tarangire River and well-managed ensuite permanent tents makes this excellent value for staying in Tarangire National Park. From the terrace there should be views of elephants, water buffalo, zebra, giraffes and other game. It is located about 15 minutes' drive from the main park entrance and has easy access to all the main circuits round the park. There is a small swimming pool. The only downside is that the meals in the spacious restaurant are less than special.
tel: 027 253 1447
e: sss@habari.co.tz
www.tarangiresafarilodge.com
A sensible mid-price option for accommodation in/near Arusha, located on the east side of the city and therefore towards Kilimanjaro airport. Six ensuite chalets (some sleeping up to four people) occupy a lush garden, with a dining area nearby. It is not far from the main road to Moshi, but it would be a great challenge to find the place for the first time after dusk.
tel: 027 250 9205
e: info@klubafriko.com
A nice small hotel situated on the east coast of Zanzibar, right at the beginning of Jambiani village. 10 palm-thatched roof beach bungalows, set in the peaceful tropical gardens.
The hotel has a quiet, peaceful, friendly and very relaxing atmosphere for an affordable sunny holiday.
Right at the beginning of Jambiani Village, Jambiani (on the east coast of Zanzibar).
Tel:00 255 777843622
Email:mbuyunibeachvillage@yahoo.co.uk
www.mbuyuni.com
We went on a trip organised by the Livingstone Tanzania trust and we spent time visiting places we would have been scared of visiting without their help, staying with families in their homes and seeing an Africa we'd never seen before. The different tribes were fascinating and the landscapes completely beautiful.
Before our safari we visited the school that they sponsor, met the kids and saw their farm. The safari was a budget one, budget because we stayed in a local guest house rather than in expensive European ones and so the money was kept in the community, which was important to us. The vehicles were excellent and the guides knowledgable and friendly. We saw no other white faces!
Based in Babati, 175km from Arusha.
www.livingstonetanzaniatrust.com
LangiLangi Beach Bungalows is located in Nungwi and is one of the best hotels in the area. The restaurant serves the best food in Nungwi and the staff are just excellent. The pool and beach are the best part of the hotel.
Nungwi, Zanzibar
www.langilangizanzibar.com
A fantastic luxury lodge at reasonable price, on a deserted private beach with white sand and blue sea. Food is amazing and the pool, bar and restaurant areas are great. Huts you stay in are beautifully furnished with breathtaking views of sea and sand. It's quite new I think, so not many people have been there yet - now's the time to go! Also went swimming with whale sharks (awe inspiring!) and picnicked on desert islands.
Flexible cycle schedule taking you round the base of Kilimanjaro, across the plains to the Serengeti and through the cooling shadows of the Rift Valley Wall.
Spectacular scenery, unique cultural experiences and a wildlife safari on top! How can you resist?
www.adsportleisure.com or info@adsportleisure.com
Adventure Sports & Leisure are a company based in Arusha, Tanzania. Responsible tourism is their thing, unique life-changing experiences is their talent! Don't be put off by their website - email them!
Colonial era coffee estate farm set in delightful gardens on edge of Ngorogoro crater. Recommended for its kitchen garden, working farm, setting and stylish accommodation. Go for the new rooms with outdoor showers and verandahs. The food is a cut above.
So lovely you'll probably want two nights - at the Manyara/Ngorogoro stage of your Northern Circuit safari.
Small ecological island reserve 40 minutes off Zanzibar. Only 14 tourists at any time, staying in romantic beach bandas stylishly constructed from natural materials.
One of the finest beaches on Zanzibar, the best food I sampled and superlative nature trails in the mangrove forest and over best coral in east Africa. Relatively expensive but a must for any holiday, particularly a honeymoon.
Kimbilio Lodge is a very new lodge on the Kilwa Masoko Bay. Italian-run and has excellent Mediterannean cuisine. Simple and, at the same time, sophisticated eight bungalows with air conditioning.
The atmosphere is friendly and the managers always managed to fulfil my requirements. I had a great time and superb dives. They have the only diving centre in the area.
I was surprised at the things I was able to do in Kilwa in one week - diving, visiting the Kilwa Ruins, see hippos a short boat ride from the lodge.
I flew in from Dar es Salaam, it was about one hour's flight and drove back to Dar es Salaam, four hours trip on a good road going through beautiful scenery and small traditional villages. It could have been possible to stop at the Selus Game Reserve on the way, but I left it for next time. Overall a wonderful experience.
www.kimbiliolodges.com
tel. + (255) 787211201
300 Km from Dar es Salaam, reachable by plane (Coastal aviation) or car; no need of 4x4
One of the lesser-known parks in Tanzania (dwarfed in size by the Masai Mara and Ngorongoro crater parks), Tarangire is thronged with wildlife towards the end of the dry season. Elephants flock here in their hundreds, and in one day there expect to see lions, leopard, buffalo, fish eagles, dik-dik, mongoose, zebra, wildebeest. The works, in short.
About two hours west of Arusha. Book with one of Arusha's myriad operators and leave as early as you can the next morning to get the best of the morning. Take in nearby Lake Manyara if you need to see a hippo. www.tanzaniaparks.com/tarangire.htm
Have just got back from Tanzania. By total fluke we found a beach (8km long) with only one small (nine-room) lodge - although they don't trade on their 'eco' side it's the most eco place we've found at a mid range price. Their electric is run on biomass, water is solar heated and the place is built from coco-wood (actually a grass apparently) - totally amazing. They have a website at www.mafiaislandtz.com, get there quick before everyone else discovers it.
Little visited and close by, Arusha Park is scenic with great views of (and includes) Mt Meru, and has its own crater, forests and lakes, some laden with salts. There are giraffe, buffalo, colobus, flamingo and lots of birds, and a few hippo left in what was once their biggest home in Tanzania. Quiet and peaceful compared to the main parks.
A few miles east of Arusha on the Moshi road, lots of local safari operators will do a full or half day, or you can climb Meru on a 3 day tough trek
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