Wonderful restaurant on the west of the river. Not cheap, but worth every penny for the great food, cocktails, service, view and private river boat. Has traditional dance displays at the weekend.

Opposite the Grand Palace next to Wat Rakhang in Thonburi.

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Just the maddest restaurant in Thailand. It's an enormous German beer hall that brews its own (very good) beer and seats about 1,500.

They serve German and Thai food and have cabaret every night - a mixture of traditional Thai and pop music. It's mostly Thais who go, and they all seem to be there to celebrate something and the whole place ends up dancing - at least in part because the staff insist on making you dance. Good if you're in a crowd, it's a truly Thai, if unexpected, experience. You'd need to book - it keeps going until about 2am.

Rama III- you'll probably need a cab. See www.tawandang1999.com/en/eng/detail.asp

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A bar, a Thai restaurant, a bakery and an Indian restaurant in a cluster of Jim Thompson-style Thai houses. Gorgeous.

Sukhumvit Soi 38

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Not a bad place for a pizza - good food, decent atmosphere, always buzzy with a lot of people coming and going, and drinkable house wine in carafes.

Sukhumvit Soi 11

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Cheap, freshly cooked vegan/vegetarian food in the backpacker area of Bangkok. Particularly recommended are the Thai Green and Massaman curries with tofu.

May also runs half-day cooking courses that are well worth trying out, though a touch pricey - in Thai terms - at 1000baht (£12). Each course includes a hair-raising tuk-tuk trip to the markets to get the essential Thai ingredients followed by hands-on tuition for 10 or so dishes. You'll be eating each one after you make it so skip breakfast that morning.

Cross the road perpendicular to the Burger King end of the Khao San Road and find the restaurant in the alleyway behind. It's very easy to find if you have a map.
www.maykaidee.com

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When in Bangkok airport don't queue for coffee in a throwaway cup at the self-service point on the main concourse. Co to the Thai restaurant where a waiter will bring you coffee in a cup and saucer at the same price. Peaceful surroundings and good food too.

Up stairs from main shopping concourse in airport. Sign at foot of stairs but easy to miss.

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