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View from below of Chedi, Chiang Mai
Photo: Corbis

The heart of Thailand
Respite is at hand. While Bangkok is the urban nerve centre of Thailand, second capital Chiang Mai is undoubtedly the nation's heart. Less populated, less expensive and far less stressful than its southern counterpart, it has instead the feel of a provincial city content to linger peacefully in the shadows of its boisterous brother.

For the most part, "development" in the shape of flyovers and skyscrapers has escaped it altogether, and central Chiang Mai still nestles within the comforting confines of its ancient city wall. It is therefore THE place to uncover the other side of Thailand, an ideal launch point for treks deep into the countryside where visitors can still find nature in all its splendour and encounter local people relatively untouched by civilisation.

In its own right, with tourism as its big money-spinner these days, Chiang Mai has a curiously laid-back vibrancy. With nightlife and a consumer culture to offer for those who want it - the night market has assumed legendary proportions among handicraft afficionados and budget buyers alike - plus a wealth of culture from the splendid Wat Doi Suthep to one of the nation's premier museums, Chiang Mai surely has something for everyone.

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