There's a certain formula to most of the treks and tours available from Chiang Mai travel agents: drive to the jungle; do a bit of walking; visit a couple of tribal villages; do a little bamboo rafting; ride an elephant.

All well and good, but for something a bit different, try the Elephant Nature Park. This is one of the few (if only) camps where the elephants run the show and are treated with the care they deserve - some of the others leave a lot to be desired. And it's also a great place to get up close and personal with the elephants themselves, all of which were rescued from far less salubrious conditions.

From $68 for a day trip to $260 for a week - not cheap, but consider that all the money goes towards looking after the elephants.
Addresses and telephone numbers at www.elephantnaturepark.org/office.htm

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All but a luxury hotel for all but a backpacker's price. The Lai Thai has a great location, minutes from the night market; the air-con rooms are clean and beautifully decorated with teak and bamboo; there's even a swimming pool.

If you're still not satisfied, the hotel has its own foot masseur and fortune teller too. Doubles from 600 Baht (about £8)

111/4-5 Kotchasarn Road, Tel: +66 5327 1725 or 5320 6438
www.laithai.com/

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