Koh Samui has the natural geological formations known as Hin Ta and Hin Yai Rocks (the Grandpa and Grandma rocks), which look, respectively, like male and female genitalia. Even stranger, they are close to one another, giving rise to a convenient legend explaining how they came into being.

Anyone on Koh Samui will tell you the story, which goes like this: Ta Kreng and Yai Riem (grandpa Kreng and grandma Riem) lived with their son in the southern Thai province of Nakhon Sri Thammarat. Their son having come of age, they felt it was time he got married, and they set their sights on a union with the daughter of Ta Monglay, who lived in Prachuap Khiri Khan province, about 400 kilometres to the north.

They set off by boat but, on the way, the boat was caught in a storm and sank just off Koh Samui. The couple, unable to swim, drowned and turned into rocks: proof to the parents of the proposed bride of their good intentions. And there the rocks stand to this day.

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One of the few remaining chilled-out beach resorts on the island. They are run by a great English couple and don't welcome s*x tourists.

Big buddha beach (North Samui), www.samui-shambala.com

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Go to Koh Samui and try to see past the white guys hanging around with Thai girls. It's an amazing island with chilled, beautiful and reasonably-priced resorts. Easy to explore other islands from here.

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