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Vegetarian festival, Krabi
Photo: Nick Tarver

Pure shores
Krabi is a town for Thai people. There are no go-go bars or beaches, no hassles and no McDonald’s: only Thai authenticity. In a country that relies so heavily on the tourist dollar, Krabi town has escaped the trap and feels a happier place for it.

Many travellers who come to Thailand crave cultural authenticity, but the allure of the beaches and islands proves too strong and they rarely see it. Any ‘culture’ seen here will have been constructed solely for the benefit of the tourist.

To find Thai culture you have to look away from the beaches (Thais despise the sun and most can’t swim) and look toward provincial towns and the countryside. Perched on the edge of a river; Krabi town is located in the tourist saturated province that takes its name and is surrounded by distinctive limestone karsts and pure tropical rainforest.

Krabi town is not only home to the cheapest guesthouses in the area but also many tour agencies, making it the perfect base from which to explore the province. The town is 20 minutes away from the popular beach resort of Ao Nang, a relatively short boat ride away from Koh Lanta, Koh Phi Phi and any of the other 132 offshore islands, and an even shorter boat ride away from the ‘up and coming’ beaches of Railay and Tonsai, which are both inaccessible by road. Compared to the main tourist-traps of Thailand, in Krabi you still remain a novelty to the genuinely interested and helpful locals.

There are few scams to be wary of and unexpected friendliness can be found everywhere: visit certain shops or stalls for long enough and you might just get a Thai price, or go out to a Thai club at night (if you can bare the aneurysm inducing Thai techno music) and you’ll be inundated with people offering you a drink.

‘Lively town, lovely people’, shouts the town’s tourist slogan. Luckily tourists have little to do with the ‘lively’ nature of Krabi, as it is the locals who shop in the indoor morning market, eat at the superb stalls on the roadside, or drink whisky and dance the night away in local clubs that gives Krabi its liveliness. This town is for Thais and that’s why I love it.
Best view
Wat Tham Seua
One of the best views in Krabi, if not the whole of Thailand, can be found at the top of Wat Tham Seua (Tiger Cave Temple). It will take you 1,237 steps of sweat-drenched effort to reach the summit but you will be rewarded with spectacular 360 degree views of the area including the forests, limestone scenery and the Andaman Sea.

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Best walks
Markets and gardens
If you want to walk around the town centre then morning is the best time, not only because it is relatively cool, but also because it gives you a chance to see the largest indoor market in southern Thailand: the morning food market. In the evening why not take a turn in the landscaped gardens parallel to the river which lead from the old pier to the new municipal sport facilities at Thara Park.

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Best guide
Krabi Flyer
The free monthly guide to Krabi province, the Krabi Flyer, is an excellent resource for giving up-to-date tourist information. It can be found in most guesthouses and tour agencies.

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Best bar
Old West Bar
There are only a couple of tourist bars to choose from but the best of the bunch is the Old West Bar on Chao Far Road, which offers some decent tunes (but too much Moby), an intimate atmosphere and friendly staff.

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Bring back
Photos
Thousands of photographs: everywhere you turn there’s a photo opportunity.

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Leave there
T-shirts
The obligatory Red Bull or Beer Chang T-shirt need not leave Thailand.

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Best journey
The road to Ao Nang
Hire a scooter or hop on a bus and wiggle around the spectacular limestone karst rock formations on the 20 minute journey between Krabi town and the beach resort of Ao Nang.

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Best activity
Boat trips
There are plenty of island tours which depart from Krabi and it is possible to privately hire a longtail boat and captain from Chao Far pier. Kayaking trips around the local mangrove forest are also available.

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Bes-kept secret
Phanom Bencha Mountain Resort
If you want to stay at an eco-friendly resort that offers cheap, well-designed bungalows and some of the most beautiful views in the province then you should visit Phanom Bencha Mountain Resort. The enchanting gardens, natural spring water swimming pool and all the peace and quiet you’ve ever wanted, combine to make the mountain resort one of my favourite places in Thailand.

www.phanombenchamountainresort.com

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Where to eat (budget)
Chao Fah Pier night market
Krabi is famed for its food and there is no better place to experience cheap freshly cooked quality dishes than at the absurdly priced Chao Fah Pier night market next to Krabi River on Khong Kha Road.

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Where to eat (moderate)
Ruen Mai restaurant
Ruen Mai restaurant on Maharat Road caters to the higher-end market and serves deliciously authentic food. The restaurant has both inside and outside seating areas and is landscaped to produce a ‘jungle’ effect. Although the prices are dearer than the local night markets, the food is still low-priced and of better quality than the tourist resort restaurants.

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Where to stay (budget)
Chan Cha Lay Guesthouse
The reasonably new Chan Cha Lay Guesthouse on Utakrit Road provides clean, cheap and bright rooms and a friendly service. The décor is tastefully simplistic and the restaurant serves decent food.

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Where to stay (moderate)
Krabi River Hotel
The Krabi River Hotel on Khong Kha Road has balconied rooms that present beautiful views of the river and the stilted fishing village on the opposite side of the bank. The rooms are affordable and offer the regular hotel mod-cons.

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