‘Son Çare’ (meaning Last Chance), situated in Antalya’s atmospheric and beautifully restored Kaleiçi (old town) provides a glorious sight at any time of the day. This small – barely more than a kiosk – establishment is secreted away just behind the picture postcard Clock Tower. It comes into its own late at night when the bars, clubs and music venues are starting to disgorge their customers.
The smell and sound of sizzling köfte (a spicy Turkish meatball) will direct you to the right place. Ask for a köfte sandwich and the guy will throw four or five meat balls on to the barbeque, closely followed by a generous portion of bread. Once this is cooked, the fun really begins - a large counter out front displays every kind of fresh salad vegetable available including: different types of lettuce, rocket, flat-leafed parsley, mint, tomatoes, cucumbers, radishes, onions, carrots, the list goes on. Next there are bowls of spices: pul biber (red pepper flakes), sumac, thyme, cumin, black pepper and small but deadly pickled chillies. Fill your sandwich to your heart’s content and wash it all down with a cool glass of ayran – a refreshing salty yoghurt drink.
Not only does this mop up any alcohol and help ward off next day’s hangover, but you can feel justified in having indulged yourself in a healthy snack. Beats chips with curry sauce any day.

Just off Dönerci Çarşısı, close to the clock tower in Antalya's Kaleici - just ask any local!

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Turks are famed for their hospitality, so for me, the best eating in Turkey is neither in the cities nor the resorts, but in people’s homes. Get off the beaten track and many people are delighted to welcome visitors. On a recent road trip between the Mediterranean resorts of Antalya and Kaş, my friend was caught short while passing through at small village. We stopped to ask a group of women outside the village shop if there was a toilet handy. One of them, smiling broadly, beckoned us into her neighbouring house to use her facilities. She then insisted we sit while she brought us traditional tulip shaped glasses of piping-hot çay (Turkish tea). While we were busy drinking, we realised she was preparing our lunch - an offer we couldn’t refuse.
A few minutes later, a huge tray arrived, laden with dishes. A saucer of olives picked from the tree in her garden and home-cured with thyme and lemon was followed by sliced tomatoes in which you could taste the warmth of the Medittarenan sun. A plate of strong, crumbly local goats cheese came accompanied by bowls of creamy chicken soup that our host indicated had also come from her garden, gesturing outside at the small flock of happily clucking hens. It was all served with piles of yufka – delicious and impossibly soft and thin village flatbread. We ate it, attempting to communicate in our few words of Turkish with our host and her assorted children, grandchildren and their friends. The warmth of this welcome and the delicious simplicity of the food is the real taste of Turkey.

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This is a 2 star hotel in a historical Ottoman building. It has air conditioning, pool and B&B plus wi-fi all for 30 Euros a night. Ibrahim the manager is very helpful and accommodating.

www.urcuhotel.com/
Barbaros Mh. Hadi Efendi Sk. 07100 Muratpaşa
+90(0)242 243 67 00
Google map: bit.ly/oh7cZB

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As one who loves cooking I always look out for interesting kitchen utensils to bring back from a holiday. Some are more useful than others. What ever you buy is always a good reminder of your holiday and where you shopped.
This also gives you the opportunity to wander off the beaten track to discover small ironmongers or market stalls stacked with goodies.
Turkey in general is known for its stainless steel products. In Antalya I found a pressure cooker. Not so practical to get home, however how could I resist? It is fantastic quality, simplicity in it's design and a real bargain for £12.

Back streets that surround the markets in Central Antalya one in particular Bahçecik Mah. Atatürk Cad. No:338 D:A, Konyaaltı, Antalya/Antalya Province, Turkey

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