For Christmas 1991 I found myself high up in the Turkish Cappodocian mountians sitting down to a delicious meal at the Kose Pansion with my best friend, my two-year-old son and a group of backpackers from the four corners of the world.
We shared stories, sang songs and went on a group walk among the region’s magical snow covered faerie turrets. Later on, sitting round the fire drinking turkish tea, I realised one of our company knew a long lost friend of mine.
I can see from the website the Kose Pansion is now very different from when we visited. However, the reviews confirm that the lovely Kose family are still at the helm applying a friendly, family ethos to their hospitality and ensuring a comfortable home from which to explore this beautiful place.
My Turkish Christmas left me with a warm glow, a newly discovered address and a last minute buy, a present to myself, a kilim made by nomads depicting the tree of life.

www.kosepension.com/
+90 384 271 2294
Google map: bit.ly/t1JFw6

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More than a hotel, Selcuklu Evi is a historic Seljuk house in Urgup lovingly restored, arranged in an Oriental style, combining authentic charm with great comfort.
One word: magical.

www.selcukluevi.com
+90 384 341 7460
Yunak Mah. P.K. 55 - 50400 Urgup

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There can be few better experiences than sleeping in a (rather luxurious) cave hewn from Cappadocia's volcanic rock after a stomach-stretching meal prepared from local produce by an exceptionally talented chef. And all of this under the watchful eyes of a most attentive staff!
Make time to enjoy the hotel as well as rushing around the lunar landscapes and fairy chimneys of Cappadocia - a 7Km hiking trail starts right from the hotel's front door.

Gamirasu Hotel
Ayvali Koyu 50400 URGUP/ TURKEY
Tel : +90 384 354 5815
: +90 384 341 7485
Fax : +90 384 354 5864
Mobile : +90 530 468 2637
E-mail :info@gamirasu.com
Website :www.gamirasu.com

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A lovingly restored inn run by the owner. We slept in a dug out cave which allows the room to be cool in summer and warm in winter (with a reverse cycle air conditioner to help after a long day's adventure - just in case.) The room itself and bathroom were more than comfortable, while being unique, with shelves dug into the rock. The local knowledge and recommendations on what to do and see around Cappadocia were easily discussed and organised in advance and on the spare moment. If you arrive later in the evening a tasty dinner is served by friendly locals at Ziggy's Shoppe and Cafe, a ten minute walk from the hotel.
Organised tours from the hotel can be arranged, from being collected at 6am in the morning to go hot air ballooning over the spectacular landscape, or being driven around in a yellow taxi all day visiting underground cities and walking down Ihlara Valley with cliffs steeped in history and the churches to prove it (thankfully our driver met us at the end where he allowed me to indulge in a refreshing Efes and seafood lunch). Otherwise brave the local bus service to take you to Pigeon valley (they will all smile with you on local transport) and visit the pigeon houses or walk on an old Troglodyte track (be wary of some cliff faces - don't try and be brave - find another path). Of course do some shopping in the town centre of Urgup (buy a Turkish carpet), visit Goreme and make sure you see the outdoor museum after walking a few miles down one of the many valley's!
If you are attracted to Cappadocia, check out Esbelli Evi as I remember very fondly the staff, the brilliantly restored old cave and the friends I made with fellow tourists. I can't recommend it highly enough for families, couples, singles, groups of friends and adventurers alike! ENJOY!

www.esbelli.com
Esbelli Sokak, 8 (P.K. 2) 50400
Ürgüp, Cappadocia, Turkey
Phone: +90 (384) 341-3395
Fly Turkish airways from Istanbul - A taxi will pick you up from the airport.

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Although you absolutely must stay in a cave hotel when in Cappadocia, there are far too many to choose from these days and seemingly not much to separate them. We can vouch for The Kelebek however. Our room was exceptionally cosy, even in deepest darkest November. Staff were magnificent, often going above and beyond the call of duty. On our final morning they presented us with freshly cooked borek and cans of juice at 5am - way before breakfast! It's within walking distance of the Goreme Open Air Museum, a must-see, and the sunny terraces afford breathtaking views of the famed landscape. If you're too broke/chicken to take a hot air balloon ride, do at least make the effort to get up at dawn and you will be rewarded with the most magical sight of 20 plus balloons in flight. Doubles from €45 per night, with breakfast.

www.kelebekhotel.com
Aydinli Mahallesi, Yavuz Sokak No:1
50180 Goreme, Nevsehir, TURKEY
+90 (384) 271 2531

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