- Fethiye
- (20)
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Turkey
It's a simple deal: first join the shouting throng in the market, and select your catch from the dizzying array of freshly caught seafood. Take your prize to one of the little restaurants surrounding the market, where it will be grilled, and served with a mountain of springy green salad and puffy "balloon bread." Enjoy your meal in the square with an Efes beer, watching the market wind down and the evening Fethiye come to life.
Pazar Yeri, Fethiye, Turkey
Google map: bit.ly/GI7tbC
Beg, borrow or steal a boat somewhere between Bodrum and Marmaris, because that's the only way you can get to the fabulous wild bay of Bosuk Buku and the ancient ruins of Loryma. You'll know you've arrived when the skipper gently nudges the boat through the narrowest of entrances, beneath the ancient battlements running along the spine of the boulder-strewn headland.
There are no houses or hotels in the bay, but a couple of enterprising local families from nearby villages have set up restaurants. They get their power from antediluvian generators and bring water in by boat every day. The best of these is the eccentric Sailors House in the north western corner. Serving the best mezzes in the whole of Turkey (well, at least the best we found in the four years we lived around the southern coast) Ali, with his son Mustapha, go to great lengths to make your stay memorable. Sublime food, excellent hospitality and ad hoc entertainment combine to make every visit unique.
Nr Bozukkale, Bosuk Buku, Muğla, Turkey
Lon: 028° 01 5 E
Lat: 36° 34 0 N
Beautiful Fethiye is set in a spectacular bay, on the edge of the Lycian coast. With the wild snow-capped Taurus mountains as a backdrop it is one of the dreamiest places to spend the winter. On the harbour, just in front of the ancient theatre by the marina, is Fethiye's best local restaurant. Unlike the fish market and other harbour-side restaurants frequented by Fethiye's summer tourists, Ocakbaşı Iskele stays open all year round. The local community – and holiday makers who want authentic Turkish dishes made from local produce – come here for its tasty meat dishes and the morning's catch. You can sit outside in the summer and watch turtles swimming in the harbour, or go inside where the chef will cook tender şiş kebaps in front of you.
Cheaper than the average over-priced restaurants in most Turkish sea resorts, the best mezzes in town begin at 4TL for the unmissable aubergine salad. Wines are not cheap (but then they are not cheap anywhere in Turkey) and at 7TL for a glass it is better value to go for a bottle. Beer is 5TL.
In the winter they close the floor to ceiling windows and light the log fire, creating a simply perfect atmosphere to while away the cold, dark evenings over coffee and whatever else tickles your fancy. We spent many happy hours here during our stay from October to April lingering over a rakı or two.
Corner of Fevzi Cakmak Cad,
(By the marina, overlooking the harbour)
Karagözler
(Nr Telmessos Ancient Theatre)
+90 (252) 614 94 23
Beautiful Fethiye, on the edge of the Lycian coast, is a spectacular bay. With the wild snow-capped Taurus mountains as a backdrop it is one of the dreamiest places to spend the winter. On the harbour, just in front of the ancient theatre by the marina, is Fethiye's best local restaurant. Unlike the fish market and other harbour-side restaurants frequented by Fethiye's summer tourists, Ocakbaşı Iskele stays open all year round. The local community – and holiday makers who want authentic Turkish dishes made from local produce – come here for its tasty meat dishes and that morning's catch. You can sit outside in the summer and watch the turtles swimming in the harbour, or go inside where they'll cook flavoured şiş kebaps in front of you while you wolf down the best mezzes in town.
Prices are better than the average over-priced restaurants in most Turkish sea resort towns, with starters from 4TL for the unmissable aubergine mezze. Wines are not cheap (but then they are not cheap anywhere in Turkey) and at 7TL for a glass it is better value to go for a bottle. Beer is 5TL.
In the winter they close up the floor to ceiling windows in the front and light the log fire, creating a simply perfect atmosphere to while away the cold, dark evenings over coffee and whatever else tickles your fancy. We spent many happy hours here during our stay from October to April lingering over mezzes and rakı.
Corner of Fevzi Cakmak Cad,
(By the marina, overlooking the harbour)
Karagözler
(Nr Telmessos Ancient Theatre)
If you're enjoying a family holiday in Fethiye, Hisaronu or Olu Deniz, you really have got fun, sun and sea on your door step. What's not so obvious, is that you also have one of the most beautiful and moving historic sites in the world a few minutes away.
Kayaköy was, until 1923, a hillside village populated by Greek speaking Christians. After the Greco-Turkish war, the Greek and Turkish governments agreed to a population exchange. The village has been uninhabited ever since, and is now preserved as a historical momument. There are hundreds of houses and other buildings all more or less untouched in nearly a hundred years.
When you're there you will need to pay a nominal entrance fee. Walk up through the village to the top, enjoying the beautiful Greek Orthodox churches and the view from the top. The sense of peace and tranquility is wonderful.
Dolmus buses go through Hisaronu every half hour in the summer season, and cost just a couple of lira. The journey to Kayaköy takes about ten minutes.
It gets very hot so, if you can, go early or late. And when you get back down, enjoy a refreshing tea from one of the small, local cafes in the beautiful village before returning to the real world.
Google map: bit.ly/lKtpOz
Originally built by Yavuz Sultan Selim in the 16th Century this is a beautiful mixed hammam - a fantastic place to be steamed, scrubbed and massaged. With most hammam's now based in hotels this is an original alternative with its traditional Moorish design and architecture (check out the brass fittings.) Having arrived covered in seasalt (it's neatly located in the Old Town near the marina) I and my partner in crime were returned to former glory ready to face the haggling and the raki that lay beyond the white walls. It is professional and welcoming, swimwear is worn in the hammam and girls can request a female masseuse. As with any Turkish establishment they may try and sell you an additional massage such as a facial while there so just be aware that they will add this to your bill when you leave and don't be afraid to say no! Other than that you really do feel amazing, radiant and squeaky clean!
From Dalaman, through Fethiye, through Ölü Deniz, along a narrow road on the side of a mountain, we climb higher. The sun gets lower and sinks as a huge red ball into the sea. We stop, but we should be down at sea level. Out of the gloom a safari jeep appears. We climb in the back and the jeep plunges over the edge of the road, down a precipitous boulder-strewn track, winding between trees barely a jeep width apart. Eventually we do reach sea level and are greeted by Yalcin and his wonderful staff. They, carrying hurricane lamps, guide us to our rooms, which are balconied cabins – rustic, yet well appointed with all mod cons. They, the kitchen and behind the bar are the only places under cover. Elsewhere, sun shades and vines on pergolas shade the many peaceful lounging areas. Everything is clustered round the kitchen garden which provides much of the delicious food. On the first day, everyone was very British and ate at separate tables. Thereafter everyone was very Mediterranean and we all ate round one big table exchanging life histories and tall tales. There are great walks (look out for wild boar, tortoises and rare butterflies) and the sea to cool off in. If you can’t be bothered to go the three minutes to the sea, there is a pool – but don’t try diving in – the rocks on which it was built provide a smooth but uneven bottom. Not just Turkish Delight, but Turkish Paradise.
Beyaz Yunus Faralya, Faralya, near Ölü Deniz
www.exclusiveescapes.co.uk/destinations/property/oyster/detail/
+44 (0)20 8605 3500
This three-bedroom villa is located in one of the most striking locations in Turkey. Kayakoy is a ghost town filled with fantastically preserved empty stone houses, gradually crumbling and being consumed by ivy. You can take a stroll up the hills on which it is situated, ducking in and out of the ruins, feeling like you own it completely. Small wonder Louis de Bernieres based his novel Bird Without Wings in this ethereal, historic setting. The villa itself does justice to the mystery and uniqueness of the place, built with regional masonry and cedar interior furnishing. It is spacious and comfortable, with not only a swimming pool but a Romeo and Juliet balcony with a prime view of Kayakoy. The town takes on an especially magical charcter at night, when it is floodlit, and you can hear the faint strummings of guitar players in the distance. What really sets this place apart is the owners; Selma and Hussein, whom we came to know personally, have their house next door. Expect to be invited to one of Selma's fantastic barbeques-welcome is the word, no strings attached. Picking of fruit from the surrounding fig, almond and pomegranate trees is allowed - if you are lucky Hussein will even help you to do it. To cap it all off, the villa is a short drive from the beach, walking distance from sumptuous pine forests, and is well served by restaurants offering the best in locally sourced Turkish food.
Phone Hussein: 00905326059072. Nearest airport Dalaman airport. Nearest large town Fethiye.
Great value for money and hugely atmospheric, if you can find it. Hop on a dolmus into Fethiye, get off at the last stop, then take the road behind the main mosque into the heart of the town. It's only about a two-minute walk (if you get lost, ask a local or follow the cats!) Buy your fish direct from the stall holders - levrek (sea bass) and cupra (sea bream) are both delicious - and one of the surrounding restaurants will cook it for you there and then, how you like, for a small cover charge with fresh bread and salad alongside. Mezes are extra and raki, the potent local aniseed-based tipple traditionally enjoyed with fish, is an absolute must. My favourite is Recep's Place and the owner, formerly a butcher, is a bit of a local celeb.
Hal ve Pazar Yeri, No: 51, Fethiye, Tel: +90 (0)538 304 0555).
Give the touristy, overcrowded day trip from Oludeniz a miss and head down to Fethiye harbour at around 10am. Take your pick of the boats departing for a day's cruising around Fethiye's islands and inlets: around 4-5 stops for swimming and snorkelling, plenty of opportunity to sunbathe and a leisurely BBQ lunch in between. Easily the best 20TL (around £9) you'll spend all holiday. Don't forget to stock up on snacks and drinks at the supermarket beforehand as it'll save you ££s on board.
This is an excursion for the budding adventurers in the family - go in late summer when the icy waters are fairly low and there won't be too much wading required (be prepared for wet legs though!). The 20km long gorge, carved out by the melting snows, is a spectacularly cool walk, with parts to clamber over and pools to cross. If you don't fancy the trek, you can just chill at one of the restaurants built out over the river, drinking apple tea and listening to the music. Go late afternoon to avoid the coach trips and get the benefits of the evening sun.
Treks and walks are possible for residents and visitors alike. Certainly the coast offers beauty beyond description but the forests and mountains, together with the villages and settlements contained within their folds, provide an experience that, unchanged by tourism, contrasts sharply with the local resorts.
At the back of the famous blue lagoon the beach club is on a sandy slowly shelving shore. There are beach bungalows and a camping and caravaning area (unusual in this part of Turkey) and is away from the main tourist resort.
They also host music afternoons with Blues/Jazz/Salsa styles. There is a kids park and good Mediterranean-inspired restaurant and a free bus service from hotels in Olu Deniz & Hisaronu.
Olu Deniz, past the national park (blue lagoon) entrance, first on left,
0252 617 0048, www.thesugarbeachclub.com
This small hotel defies the usual descriptions so favoured by the glitzy brochures, expensively produced by the Turkish holiday companies & tour operators. İt has, during the last 6 years, established a reputation for comfort, good food and excellent hospitality. Having now broken free from the chains of UK operators, Misafir Evi seeks to re-establish itself as an independent concern for those travellers and tourists who prefer a good read to watching the ubiquitous flat screen tv and a walk in the Turkish country side to a workout in the gym.
www.kayamisafirevi.com
Tel: 00 90 252 618 01 62
Yuva is a family run eco holiday centre about 30 mins drive from Fethiye. It is set in 40 acres of pine forest and has direct access to the Mediterranean sea. It hosts a range of activity holidays from April to October for beginners and the more experienced including yoga, walking and chi gung, but you can also stay all year round without taking part in a course or activity to just relax and enjoy the beautiful natural environment.
Food is mainly delicious locally produced organic vegetarian and accommodation is in large traditionally built stone houses and wood cabins, all ensuite. Prices start from under £200 a week half board not including flight.
Yuva is a great place to relax, enjoy the sea, sunshine, and the natural environment and eat well and healthily at the same time!
www.yuvaholidays.com
Tel: 01760 755888
This rural hideaway, in the setting of the evocative novel 'Birds without Wings', is within easy reach of the hedonistic hot spots of Fethiye and Olu Deniz, yet could be a million miles away. We had a magical stay in this tranquil haven, only occasionally interrupted by the owners' donkey, Mabel. The first night's dinner, served on our private terrace, was included in the rent (now around £325 a week) but Bea, who has established some reputation as a talented chef, will provide further meals on request. John is an expert on local mountain trails, and this is an ideal spot for keen walkers. Here we savoured the atmosphere of Turkey as it used to be.
email johnandbea@superonline.com
www.buzzytravel.com/beatrixcottage.htm
Istanbul's biggest yoga centre 'Cihangir Yoga' holds annual retreats in Fetihye along the Lycian way. These retreats have been running successfully now for six years and attract teachers and students from all over the world.
Top class yoga tuition and time to relax on the beautiful secluded beaches.
you can find information at www.cihangiryoga.com
A 15 minute taxi ride over the pass from Fethiye, the tranquil and scenic Kaya valley is well worth taking time to visit if you are tired with all the hustle and bustle. The main attraction is the "Ghost Village", a ruined village that was deserted during the war (made famous in Louis De Berniere's "Bird Without Wings"). There are plenty of restaurants around if you want to get some hearty authentic Turkish cuisine, or just fancy a drink and relaxation.
Kaya is about 15 minutes in a taxi from Fethiye over the mountain pass. If you fancy a walk it will take a good hour - look out for the ancient cliff dwellings carved into the mountainside on the road out of Fethiye.
Being a less popular currency, rates in England are not very competitive. If you can, wait until you are in Turkey and there you will be able to get more Lira for your pound.
The highlight of this trip is travelling on a wooden river boat through a reed filled waterway where loggerhead turtles live. You may or may not spot one in the water. Also on view are ancient rock tombs of the Lycian age at Kaunos. These resemble small temples carved out of sheer rock which housed the nobility and their belongings after death to await reincarnation. The lower orders were buried in less impressive surroundings below them.
Also worth doing - taking a mud bath, followed by a shower and a dip in a thermal bath afterwards.
And finally by boat again to Iztuzu or 'Turtle' beach, a beautiful expanse of white sand. You can dive into the Mediterranean on one side of the beach and swim in fresh water on the other. The beach is closed to public access at night to allow the turtles to breed there.
You can get there easily from the bigger centres such as Marmaris or Fethiye on an organised trip or from Dalyan itself. Most agencies offer it.
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