Turkey
Give the touristy, overcrowded day trip from Oludeniz a miss and head down to Fethiye harbour at around 10am. Take your pick of the boats departing for a day's cruising around Fethiye's islands and inlets: around 4-5 stops for swimming and snorkelling, plenty of opportunity to sunbathe and a leisurely BBQ lunch in between. Easily the best 20TL (around £9) you'll spend all holiday. Don't forget to stock up on snacks and drinks at the supermarket beforehand as it'll save you ££s on board.
This is an excursion for the budding adventurers in the family - go in late summer when the icy waters are fairly low and there won't be too much wading required (be prepared for wet legs though!). The 20km long gorge, carved out by the melting snows, is a spectacularly cool walk, with parts to clamber over and pools to cross. If you don't fancy the trek, you can just chill at one of the restaurants built out over the river, drinking apple tea and listening to the music. Go late afternoon to avoid the coach trips and get the benefits of the evening sun.
Treks and walks are possible for residents and visitors alike. Certainly the coast offers beauty beyond description but the forests and mountains, together with the villages and settlements contained within their folds, provide an experience that, unchanged by tourism, contrasts sharply with the local resorts.
At the back of the famous blue lagoon the beach club is on a sandy slowly shelving shore. There are beach bungalows and a camping and caravaning area (unusual in this part of Turkey) and is away from the main tourist resort.
They also host music afternoons with Blues/Jazz/Salsa styles. There is a kids park and good Mediterranean-inspired restaurant and a free bus service from hotels in Olu Deniz & Hisaronu.
Olu Deniz, past the national park (blue lagoon) entrance, first on left,
0252 617 0048, www.thesugarbeachclub.com
This small hotel defies the usual descriptions so favoured by the glitzy brochures, expensively produced by the Turkish holiday companies & tour operators. İt has, during the last 6 years, established a reputation for comfort, good food and excellent hospitality. Having now broken free from the chains of UK operators, Misafir Evi seeks to re-establish itself as an independent concern for those travellers and tourists who prefer a good read to watching the ubiquitous flat screen tv and a walk in the Turkish country side to a workout in the gym.
www.kayamisafirevi.com
Tel: 00 90 252 618 01 62
Yuva is a family run eco holiday centre about 30 mins drive from Fethiye. It is set in 40 acres of pine forest and has direct access to the Mediterranean sea. It hosts a range of activity holidays from April to October for beginners and the more experienced including yoga, walking and chi gung, but you can also stay all year round without taking part in a course or activity to just relax and enjoy the beautiful natural environment.
Food is mainly delicious locally produced organic vegetarian and accommodation is in large traditionally built stone houses and wood cabins, all ensuite. Prices start from under £200 a week half board not including flight.
Yuva is a great place to relax, enjoy the sea, sunshine, and the natural environment and eat well and healthily at the same time!
www.yuvaholidays.com
Tel: 01760 755888
This rural hideaway, in the setting of the evocative novel 'Birds without Wings', is within easy reach of the hedonistic hot spots of Fethiye and Olu Deniz, yet could be a million miles away. We had a magical stay in this tranquil haven, only occasionally interrupted by the owners' donkey, Mabel. The first night's dinner, served on our private terrace, was included in the rent (now around £325 a week) but Bea, who has established some reputation as a talented chef, will provide further meals on request. John is an expert on local mountain trails, and this is an ideal spot for keen walkers. Here we savoured the atmosphere of Turkey as it used to be.
email johnandbea@superonline.com
www.buzzytravel.com/beatrixcottage.htm
Istanbul's biggest yoga centre 'Cihangir Yoga' holds annual retreats in Fetihye along the Lycian way. These retreats have been running successfully now for six years and attract teachers and students from all over the world.
Top class yoga tuition and time to relax on the beautiful secluded beaches.
you can find information at www.cihangiryoga.com
A 15 minute taxi ride over the pass from Fethiye, the tranquil and scenic Kaya valley is well worth taking time to visit if you are tired with all the hustle and bustle. The main attraction is the "Ghost Village", a ruined village that was deserted during the war (made famous in Louis De Berniere's "Bird Without Wings"). There are plenty of restaurants around if you want to get some hearty authentic Turkish cuisine, or just fancy a drink and relaxation.
Kaya is about 15 minutes in a taxi from Fethiye over the mountain pass. If you fancy a walk it will take a good hour - look out for the ancient cliff dwellings carved into the mountainside on the road out of Fethiye.
Being a less popular currency, rates in England are not very competitive. If you can, wait until you are in Turkey and there you will be able to get more Lira for your pound.
The highlight of this trip is travelling on a wooden river boat through a reed filled waterway where loggerhead turtles live. You may or may not spot one in the water. Also on view are ancient rock tombs of the Lycian age at Kaunos. These resemble small temples carved out of sheer rock which housed the nobility and their belongings after death to await reincarnation. The lower orders were buried in less impressive surroundings below them.
Also worth doing - taking a mud bath, followed by a shower and a dip in a thermal bath afterwards.
And finally by boat again to Iztuzu or 'Turtle' beach, a beautiful expanse of white sand. You can dive into the Mediterranean on one side of the beach and swim in fresh water on the other. The beach is closed to public access at night to allow the turtles to breed there.
You can get there easily from the bigger centres such as Marmaris or Fethiye on an organised trip or from Dalyan itself. Most agencies offer it.
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