It's a simple deal: first join the shouting throng in the market, and select your catch from the dizzying array of freshly caught seafood. Take your prize to one of the little restaurants surrounding the market, where it will be grilled, and served with a mountain of springy green salad and puffy "balloon bread." Enjoy your meal in the square with an Efes beer, watching the market wind down and the evening Fethiye come to life.

Pazar Yeri, Fethiye, Turkey
Google map: bit.ly/GI7tbC

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Beg, borrow or steal a boat somewhere between Bodrum and Marmaris, because that's the only way you can get to the fabulous wild bay of Bosuk Buku and the ancient ruins of Loryma. You'll know you've arrived when the skipper gently nudges the boat through the narrowest of entrances, beneath the ancient battlements running along the spine of the boulder-strewn headland.
There are no houses or hotels in the bay, but a couple of enterprising local families from nearby villages have set up restaurants. They get their power from antediluvian generators and bring water in by boat every day. The best of these is the eccentric Sailors House in the north western corner. Serving the best mezzes in the whole of Turkey (well, at least the best we found in the four years we lived around the southern coast) Ali, with his son Mustapha, go to great lengths to make your stay memorable. Sublime food, excellent hospitality and ad hoc entertainment combine to make every visit unique.

Nr Bozukkale, Bosuk Buku, Muğla, Turkey
Lon: 028° 01 5 E
Lat: 36° 34 0 N

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Beautiful Fethiye is set in a spectacular bay, on the edge of the Lycian coast. With the wild snow-capped Taurus mountains as a backdrop it is one of the dreamiest places to spend the winter. On the harbour, just in front of the ancient theatre by the marina, is Fethiye's best local restaurant. Unlike the fish market and other harbour-side restaurants frequented by Fethiye's summer tourists, Ocakbaşı Iskele stays open all year round. The local community – and holiday makers who want authentic Turkish dishes made from local produce – come here for its tasty meat dishes and the morning's catch. You can sit outside in the summer and watch turtles swimming in the harbour, or go inside where the chef will cook tender şiş kebaps in front of you.

Cheaper than the average over-priced restaurants in most Turkish sea resorts, the best mezzes in town begin at 4TL for the unmissable aubergine salad. Wines are not cheap (but then they are not cheap anywhere in Turkey) and at 7TL for a glass it is better value to go for a bottle. Beer is 5TL.

In the winter they close the floor to ceiling windows and light the log fire, creating a simply perfect atmosphere to while away the cold, dark evenings over coffee and whatever else tickles your fancy. We spent many happy hours here during our stay from October to April lingering over a rakı or two.

Corner of Fevzi Cakmak Cad,
(By the marina, overlooking the harbour)
Karagözler
(Nr Telmessos Ancient Theatre)
+90 (252) 614 94 23

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Beautiful Fethiye, on the edge of the Lycian coast, is a spectacular bay. With the wild snow-capped Taurus mountains as a backdrop it is one of the dreamiest places to spend the winter. On the harbour, just in front of the ancient theatre by the marina, is Fethiye's best local restaurant. Unlike the fish market and other harbour-side restaurants frequented by Fethiye's summer tourists, Ocakbaşı Iskele stays open all year round. The local community – and holiday makers who want authentic Turkish dishes made from local produce – come here for its tasty meat dishes and that morning's catch. You can sit outside in the summer and watch the turtles swimming in the harbour, or go inside where they'll cook flavoured şiş kebaps in front of you while you wolf down the best mezzes in town.
Prices are better than the average over-priced restaurants in most Turkish sea resort towns, with starters from 4TL for the unmissable aubergine mezze. Wines are not cheap (but then they are not cheap anywhere in Turkey) and at 7TL for a glass it is better value to go for a bottle. Beer is 5TL.
In the winter they close up the floor to ceiling windows in the front and light the log fire, creating a simply perfect atmosphere to while away the cold, dark evenings over coffee and whatever else tickles your fancy. We spent many happy hours here during our stay from October to April lingering over mezzes and rakı.

Corner of Fevzi Cakmak Cad,
(By the marina, overlooking the harbour)
Karagözler
(Nr Telmessos Ancient Theatre)

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Great value for money and hugely atmospheric, if you can find it. Hop on a dolmus into Fethiye, get off at the last stop, then take the road behind the main mosque into the heart of the town. It's only about a two-minute walk (if you get lost, ask a local or follow the cats!) Buy your fish direct from the stall holders - levrek (sea bass) and cupra (sea bream) are both delicious - and one of the surrounding restaurants will cook it for you there and then, how you like, for a small cover charge with fresh bread and salad alongside. Mezes are extra and raki, the potent local aniseed-based tipple traditionally enjoyed with fish, is an absolute must. My favourite is Recep's Place and the owner, formerly a butcher, is a bit of a local celeb.

Hal ve Pazar Yeri, No: 51, Fethiye, Tel: +90 (0)538 304 0555).

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This small hotel defies the usual descriptions so favoured by the glitzy brochures, expensively produced by the Turkish holiday companies & tour operators. İt has, during the last 6 years, established a reputation for comfort, good food and excellent hospitality. Having now broken free from the chains of UK operators, Misafir Evi seeks to re-establish itself as an independent concern for those travellers and tourists who prefer a good read to watching the ubiquitous flat screen tv and a walk in the Turkish country side to a workout in the gym.

www.kayamisafirevi.com
Tel: 00 90 252 618 01 62

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Yuva is a family run eco holiday centre about 30 mins drive from Fethiye. It is set in 40 acres of pine forest and has direct access to the Mediterranean sea. It hosts a range of activity holidays from April to October for beginners and the more experienced including yoga, walking and chi gung, but you can also stay all year round without taking part in a course or activity to just relax and enjoy the beautiful natural environment.

Food is mainly delicious locally produced organic vegetarian and accommodation is in large traditionally built stone houses and wood cabins, all ensuite. Prices start from under £200 a week half board not including flight.

Yuva is a great place to relax, enjoy the sea, sunshine, and the natural environment and eat well and healthily at the same time!

www.yuvaholidays.com
Tel: 01760 755888

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A 15 minute taxi ride over the pass from Fethiye, the tranquil and scenic Kaya valley is well worth taking time to visit if you are tired with all the hustle and bustle. The main attraction is the "Ghost Village", a ruined village that was deserted during the war (made famous in Louis De Berniere's "Bird Without Wings"). There are plenty of restaurants around if you want to get some hearty authentic Turkish cuisine, or just fancy a drink and relaxation.

Kaya is about 15 minutes in a taxi from Fethiye over the mountain pass. If you fancy a walk it will take a good hour - look out for the ancient cliff dwellings carved into the mountainside on the road out of Fethiye.

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