Turkey
It's a simple deal: first join the shouting throng in the market, and select your catch from the dizzying array of freshly caught seafood. Take your prize to one of the little restaurants surrounding the market, where it will be grilled, and served with a mountain of springy green salad and puffy "balloon bread." Enjoy your meal in the square with an Efes beer, watching the market wind down and the evening Fethiye come to life.
Pazar Yeri, Fethiye, Turkey
Google map: bit.ly/GI7tbC
Great value for money and hugely atmospheric, if you can find it. Hop on a dolmus into Fethiye, get off at the last stop, then take the road behind the main mosque into the heart of the town. It's only about a two-minute walk (if you get lost, ask a local or follow the cats!) Buy your fish direct from the stall holders - levrek (sea bass) and cupra (sea bream) are both delicious - and one of the surrounding restaurants will cook it for you there and then, how you like, for a small cover charge with fresh bread and salad alongside. Mezes are extra and raki, the potent local aniseed-based tipple traditionally enjoyed with fish, is an absolute must. My favourite is Recep's Place and the owner, formerly a butcher, is a bit of a local celeb.
Hal ve Pazar Yeri, No: 51, Fethiye, Tel: +90 (0)538 304 0555).
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