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        <title>Been there | Tips</title>
        
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            Welcome to Been there. Your tips on the places you know - that you love,
            live in or have just visited - are what make this guide.
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                <title>Feasting on seafood at the city fish markets</title>
                
                <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34102</link>
                
                <description><![CDATA[It's a simple deal: first join the shouting throng in the market, and select your catch from the dizzying array of freshly caught seafood. Take your prize to one of the little restaurants surrounding the market, where it will be grilled, and served with a mountain of springy green salad and puffy "balloon bread." Enjoy your meal in the square with an Efes beer, watching the market wind down and the evening Fethiye come to life.]]></description>
                
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                <title>Sailors House</title>
                
                <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34073</link>
                
                <description><![CDATA[Beg, borrow or steal a boat somewhere between Bodrum and Marmaris, because that's the only way you can get to the fabulous wild bay of Bosuk Buku and the ancient ruins of Loryma. You'll know you've arrived when the skipper gently nudges the boat through the narrowest of entrances, beneath the ancient battlements running along the spine of the boulder-strewn headland.<br>There are no houses or hotels in the bay, but a couple of enterprising local families from nearby villages have set up restaurants. They get their power from antediluvian generators and bring water in by boat every day. The best of these is the eccentric Sailors House in the north western corner. Serving the best mezzes in the whole of Turkey (well, at least the best we found in the four years we lived around the southern coast) Ali, with his son Mustapha, go to great lengths to make your stay memorable. Sublime food, excellent hospitality and ad hoc entertainment combine to make every visit unique.]]></description>
                
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                <title>Ocakbaşı Iskele restaurant</title>
                
                <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34069</link>
                
                <description><![CDATA[Beautiful Fethiye is set in a spectacular bay, on the edge of the Lycian coast. With the wild snow-capped Taurus mountains as a backdrop it is one of the dreamiest places to spend the winter. On the harbour, just in front of the ancient theatre by the marina, is Fethiye's best local restaurant. Unlike the fish market and other harbour-side restaurants frequented by Fethiye's summer tourists, Ocakbaşı Iskele stays open all year round. The local community – and holiday makers who want authentic Turkish dishes made from local produce – come here for its tasty meat dishes and the morning's catch. You can sit outside in the summer and watch turtles swimming in the harbour, or go inside where the chef will cook tender şiş kebaps in front of you.<br><br>Cheaper than the average over-priced restaurants in most Turkish sea resorts, the best mezzes in town begin at 4TL for the unmissable aubergine salad. Wines are not cheap (but then they are not cheap anywhere in Turkey) and at 7TL for a glass it is better value to go for a bottle. Beer is 5TL.<br><br>In the winter they close the floor to ceiling windows and light the log fire, creating a simply perfect atmosphere to while away the cold, dark evenings over coffee and whatever else tickles your fancy. We spent many happy hours here during our stay from October to April lingering over a rakı or two.]]></description>
                
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                <title>Ocakbaşı Iskele restaurant</title>
                
                <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34061</link>
                
                <description><![CDATA[Beautiful Fethiye, on the edge of the Lycian coast, is a spectacular bay. With the wild snow-capped Taurus mountains as a backdrop it is one of the dreamiest places to spend the winter. On the harbour, just in front of the ancient theatre by the marina, is Fethiye's best local restaurant. Unlike the fish market and other harbour-side restaurants frequented by Fethiye's summer tourists, Ocakbaşı Iskele stays open all year round. The local community – and holiday makers who want authentic Turkish dishes made from local produce – come here for its tasty meat dishes and that morning's catch. You can sit outside in the summer and watch the turtles swimming in the harbour, or go inside where they'll cook flavoured şiş kebaps in front of you while you wolf down the best mezzes in town.<br>Prices are better than the average over-priced restaurants in most Turkish sea resort towns, with starters from 4TL for the unmissable aubergine mezze. Wines are not cheap (but then they are not cheap anywhere in Turkey) and at 7TL for a glass it is better value to go for a bottle. Beer is 5TL.<br>In the winter they close up the floor to ceiling windows in the front and light the log fire, creating a simply perfect atmosphere to while away the cold, dark evenings over coffee and whatever else tickles your fancy. We spent many happy hours here during our stay from October to April lingering over mezzes and rakı.]]></description>
                
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                <title>Kayaköy</title>
                
                <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/31319</link>
                
                <description><![CDATA[If you're enjoying a family holiday in Fethiye, Hisaronu or Olu Deniz, you really have got fun, sun and sea on your door step. What's not so obvious, is that you also have one of the most beautiful and moving historic sites in the world a few minutes away.<br>Kayaköy was, until 1923, a hillside village populated by Greek speaking Christians. After the Greco-Turkish war, the Greek and Turkish governments agreed to a population exchange. The village has been uninhabited ever since, and is now preserved as a historical momument. There are hundreds of houses and other buildings all more or less untouched in nearly a hundred years.<br>When you're there you will need to pay a nominal entrance fee. Walk up through the village to the top, enjoying the beautiful Greek Orthodox churches and the view from the top. The sense of peace and tranquility is wonderful.<br>Dolmus buses go through Hisaronu every half hour in the summer season, and cost just a couple of lira. The journey to Kayaköy takes about ten minutes. <br>It gets very hot so, if you can, go early or late. And when you get back down, enjoy a refreshing tea from one of the small, local cafes in the beautiful village before returning to the real world.]]></description>
                
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                <title>Old Turkish Bath</title>
                
                <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/29153</link>
                
                <description><![CDATA[Originally built by Yavuz Sultan Selim in the 16th Century this is a beautiful mixed hammam - a fantastic place to be steamed, scrubbed and massaged. With most hammam's now based in hotels this is an original alternative with its traditional Moorish design and architecture (check out the brass fittings.) Having arrived covered in seasalt (it's neatly located in the Old Town near the marina) I and my partner in crime were returned to former glory ready to face the haggling and the raki that lay beyond the white walls. It is professional and welcoming, swimwear is worn in the hammam and girls can request a female masseuse. As with any Turkish establishment they may try and sell you an additional massage such as a facial while there so just be aware that they will add this to your bill when you leave and don't be afraid to say no! Other than that you really do feel amazing, radiant and squeaky clean!]]></description>
                
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                <title>Beyaz Yunus Faralya</title>
                
                <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/26280</link>
                
                <description><![CDATA[From Dalaman, through Fethiye, through Ölü Deniz, along a narrow road on the side of a mountain, we climb higher. The sun gets lower and sinks as a huge red ball into the sea. We stop, but we should be down at sea level. Out of the gloom a safari jeep appears. We climb in the back and the jeep plunges over the edge of the road, down a precipitous boulder-strewn track, winding between trees barely a jeep width apart. Eventually we do reach sea level and are greeted by Yalcin and his wonderful staff. They, carrying hurricane lamps, guide us to our rooms, which are balconied cabins – rustic, yet well appointed with all mod cons. They, the kitchen and behind the bar are the only places under cover.  Elsewhere, sun shades and vines on pergolas shade the many peaceful lounging areas.  Everything is clustered round the kitchen garden which provides much of the delicious food. On the first day, everyone was very British and ate at separate tables. Thereafter everyone was very Mediterranean and we all ate round one big table exchanging life histories and tall tales.  There are great walks (look out for wild boar, tortoises and rare butterflies) and the sea to cool off in. If you can’t be bothered to go the three minutes to the sea, there is a pool – but don’t try diving in – the rocks on which it was built provide a smooth but uneven bottom. Not just Turkish Delight, but Turkish Paradise.]]></description>
                
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                <title>Villa Dimitri</title>
                
                <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/26278</link>
                
                <description><![CDATA[This three-bedroom villa is located in one of the most striking locations in Turkey. Kayakoy is a ghost town filled with fantastically preserved empty stone houses, gradually crumbling and being consumed by ivy. You can take a stroll up the hills on which it is situated, ducking in and out of the ruins, feeling like you own it completely. Small wonder Louis de Bernieres based his novel Bird Without Wings in this ethereal, historic setting. The villa itself does justice to the mystery and uniqueness of the place, built with regional masonry and cedar interior furnishing. It is spacious and comfortable, with not only a swimming pool but a Romeo and Juliet balcony with a prime view of Kayakoy. The town takes on an especially magical charcter at night, when it is floodlit, and you can hear the faint strummings of guitar players in the distance. What really sets this place apart is the owners; Selma and Hussein, whom we came to know personally, have their house next door. Expect to be invited to one of Selma's fantastic barbeques-welcome is the word, no strings attached. Picking of fruit from the surrounding fig, almond and pomegranate trees is allowed - if you are lucky Hussein will even help you to do it. To cap it all off, the villa is a short drive from the beach, walking distance from sumptuous pine forests, and is well served by restaurants offering the best in locally sourced Turkish food.]]></description>
                
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                <title>Fethiye Fish Market</title>
                
                <link>http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23141</link>
                
                <description><![CDATA[Great value for money and hugely atmospheric, if you can find it. Hop on a dolmus into Fethiye, get off at the last stop, then take the road behind the main mosque into the heart of the town. It's only about a two-minute walk (if you get lost, ask a local or follow the cats!) Buy your fish direct from the stall holders - levrek (sea bass) and cupra (sea bream) are both delicious - and one of the surrounding restaurants will cook it for you there and then, how you like, for a small cover charge with fresh bread and salad alongside. Mezes are extra and raki, the potent local aniseed-based tipple traditionally enjoyed with fish, is an absolute must. My favourite is Recep's Place and the owner, formerly a butcher, is a bit of a local celeb.]]></description>
                
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