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Ortakoy mosque
Photo: Murad Sezer/AP

Turkish delight
The beauty of watching the sunset over Europe from the Asian side of the Bosphorus, the noise of the street-sellers, the smell of grilled fish and some of the hippest bars are among the many experiences that make this capital of three empires the spellbinding place it is. Istanbul has the beauty of Paris without its arrogance, the history of Berlin without its glossy skyscrapers and the bars of New York without its prices. Just leave the cliches and stereotypes about the clash of civilisations at the airport ...

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