Sick of the layers of history in Istanbul? OK, that's unlikely, but here's an alternative for the culturally omnivorous.

Officially the Istanbul Modern Art Museum, it has both a permanent collection of modern Turkish art and visiting exhibitions and installations and is located in the Tophane district, between Karaköy and Dolmabaçhe palace.

Its location is not obvious, though it is not far from the tramway that runs along Necatibey Caddesi - it is on the waterfront, in a converted warehouse-type building, with stunning views of the Bosphorus from its café. Though some detractors will take delight in spotting international influences on some of the Turkish artists, the place itself is a model of museum/gallery planning, with an excellent shop and impressive education activities.

www.istanbulmodern.org/

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Built between 1316 and 1361, around an earlier church, the small brick building of St. Saviour in Chora (now called the Kariye Mosque Museum) contains some of the most wonderful and best-preserved examples of Byzantine art anywhere.

The church’s patron, Metochites, a Byzantine scholar and politician ended his days as a monk at the church having been allowed to return after falling from power and spending two years in exile.

The mosaics found in the church portray scenes from the life of Christ and the Virgin Mary, the Day of Judgement and Heaven and Hell. The colours in the mosaics seem as vibrant and fresh as they were when first created. When the church was converted to a mosque in the 15th Century the mosaics were covered over with plaster rather than destroyed remaining so until the mid 19th Century, and this covering may have helped to preserve their appearance.

They are also intricately detailed and one of the pleasures of standing in front of them is being able look deeper into the images picking out different things with each sweep of the eyes, for instance one small beautifully realised scene where water is being poured from a pitcher into large earthenware pots.

Although slightly off the beaten path it is well worth taking a trip to the Kariye Camii to see these magnificent pieces of art.

Open: Mon-Tues, Thurs-Sun Closed: Wed.

Kariye Camii Sokak 26, Edirnekapi

Bus 37E and 38E from Eminonu

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Housed in an old palace overlooking the Hippodrome the Museum of Turkish and Islamic Arts charts the history, influences and changes in Islamic art through the use of pottery, tiles, artefacts, calligraphy, glass and metal work, manuscripts and friezes.

There are some wonderful exhibits, especially the beautiful calligraphy and decorated manuscripts, vibrantly coloured tiles and also the exquisite, elaborate pins and brooches used to decorate turbans.

The later galleries and the Main Ceremonial Hall contain one of the world’s foremost collection of antique carpets. The exhibition explains the different types of carpets and how some styles are named after certain artists i.e. Holbein, because they were featured in paintings by those artists. In the west Turkish carpets were so prized that they were used as table coverings rather than on the floor, thus showing the wealth of those who owned them.

The museum also has an Ethnographical Section which includes a reconstruction of a traditional Yurt dwelling and also details of how natural dyes are made from such things as plants, dried flowers and even crushes insects.

All the exhibits are well displayed with descriptions in Turkish and English. There is a lot to take in however the museum also has a lovely tea room where you can refresh your senses and feet and, in summer, sit out on the terrace with beautiful views over the Blue Mosque.

At Meydani 46, Sultanahmet
Overlooking the Hippodrome, opposite the Blue Mosque.

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This is a fascinating museum with some wonderful exhibits. The highlight is probably the collection of sarcophagi discovered in 1887 at Sidon in Lebanon. The "Sarcophagus of the Mourning Women" has wonderful decorative friezes and the remarkable Alexandria Sarcophagus is covered in intricate raised friezes on which some of the original colours can still be seen.
There is a collection of fine Roman statues and in the Museum of the Ancient Orient colourful glazed brick friezes from Babylon.

Osman Hamdi Bay Yokusu

Opening Hours: 9.00am-4.30pm closed Mondays

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Situated in a peaceful, quite courtyard very close to Divan Yolu, Yerebatan Sarayi and Aya Sofya this is a perfect place to stop for lunch or a drink.

The medresseh itself houses workshops and exhibition rooms highlighting traditional Turkish crafts such as calligraphy, ceramics, jewellery and so on which you can look round either before or after your meal.

The food was well prepared and very tasty and our kick-boxing, friendly and attentive waiter was great!

The menu reflects more of a cafe than a restaurant feel with dishes such as lamb meatballs served with chilli and spaghetti and scrambled eggs with tomatoes and chilli

Caferiye Sokak., Sogukkuyu Cikmazi No 1
Quite easy to miss but is signposted from Caferiye Sokak

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Istanbul is a city of culture, with loads of venues, ranging from the Hagia Irene in the grounds of Aya Sofia, to Rumeli Hisar castle on the banks of the Bosphorus, to the Istanbul modern, the new art venue. Plus the open- air theatre and the jazz ferry boats. The bienniale is a series of cultural events spread over 6 weeks; starts soon. There are events all over Istanbul; if you miss it you have to wait 2 years.

www.iksv.org/bienal/english/

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Exquisite display of more than a 100 masterpieces, along with the photographs and a thorough biography of the master himself. Stroll around, buy a catalogue and take a break in a museum cafeteria – it`s actually the famous C`hanga restaurant. The museum itself is a a part of Sabanci University, owned by wealthy Sabanci family; situated in Emirgan, and has a splendid view of Bosphorus. A whole-day excursion would be a day to remember.

Istinye Cad No 22, Emirgan; tel: 212 277 22 00;
Bus No T40 from Taxim Sq;
muze.sabanciuniv.edu/english;
Admission: 10YTL;
Picasso exhibition open until March 26 2006

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