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Officially the Istanbul Modern Art Museum, it has both a permanent collection of modern Turkish art and visiting exhibitions and installations and is located in the Tophane district, between Karaköy and Dolmabaçhe palace.

Its location is not obvious, though it is not far from the tramway that runs along Necatibey Caddesi - it is on the waterfront, in a converted warehouse-type building, with stunning views of the Bosphorus from its café. Though some detractors will take delight in spotting international influences on some of the Turkish artists, the place itself is a model of museum/gallery planning, with an excellent shop and impressive education activities.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/15488 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/10310
The walls served the city well protecting it from invading forces for nearly 1000 years until, in 1453, Mehmet the Conqueror breached the walls and entered the city.

The walls consisted of a main inner wall, 16 feet (5 m) think and 40 feet (12 m) high, a terrace, then an outer wall 7 feet (2m) thick) and about 30 feet (8.5 m) high, this outer wall overlooking a moat. The double walls also included a total of 192 towers plus 11 fortified gateways which gave access to the city. It was an amazing feat of engineering and must have been an incredible site to those approaching the city, especially if contemplating how to overcome this almost impenetrable barrier.

Now the ravages of time and neglect have meant that many areas of the wall have fallen into disrepair, though they are, as ruins so often can be, still very impressive, their shapes making jagged shapes, like broken teeth, against the sky. Other sections have been restored and these give a good indication of how the walls used to look.

We decided to walk along the walls from Yedikule Fortress to Edirnekapi before cutting inwards to the Kariye Camii Museum – a distance of about 3 miles. Walking ‘along’ the walls is a bit of a misnomer as though some guide books say it is possible to climb onto the inner or outer walls, access is not easy and the walls themselves, at times almost in a state of collapse, don’t always look safe enough to climb on. This did mean that for the first part of our journey following the route of the walls we were walking next to a busy main road and exhaust fumes are not the most pleasant accompaniment. However, next to the walls, in, I assume, the old moat are a string of allotments and the exhaust fumes were mitigated by the smell of growing vegetables and plants drifting across from them.

The old gates to the city are generally in quite good repair and close to one we were able to gain access onto the, reconstructed, outer wall and terrace, the latter also filled with allotments.
Though a bit ramshackle and rather a rubbish dump in places this part of the walk was fantastic as hidden from view we walked in solitude between the inner and outer walls watching butterflies flit between vegetables and trying to imagine what it must have felt like to be hunkered down in one of the towers waiting for an incursion or attack.

Later we passed through some more traditional neighbourhoods and stopped for tea at an outside café near the Topkapi Gate where we had a wonderful part English, part Turkish, part sign language conversation with some of the other customers who were interested to know where we had been, where we were going and how we liked Istanbul.

All in all it took us about 2 hours to complete our walk, arriving at the Kariye Camii Museum with a sense of achievement and some good memories. I wouldn’t recommend this walk for everyone it was tiring, it wasn’t always attractive – meaning the main road really – and certain sections of the walls are rather deserted and I wouldn’t want to tackle them on my own, however, it provided some of my most abiding memories of Istanbul and I am really pleased we did it.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/10310 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5154
The best tip I can give you is to have the utmost respect, for the culture, the people, the language because it is a liberal Muslim country that has adapted to the ideals of the west. The locals are friendly, not slimy and they truly possess the gift of the gab. Be prepared to be sold everything from sweet honey filled Gozleme - (pancakes) to fake designer rip off gear (just remember to check the spelling, I came back from the local Egyptian market with bags full of designer gear to find that my designer Gucci t-shirts were spelt Goolies).

The street vendors are colourful and funny and will entice you with anything. Don't pretend you don't speak English as I guarantee that the Turks can speak every language under the sun, try to learn the lingo 'Merhaba' (Hello) and 'Teshkuredrim' (Thank you) will take you a long way.

Never refuse the hospitality of a Turk, they will offer you tea and food with good intentions. Refusing can often offend people. Take English pounds and the euro and I guarantee that you will have the best bartering tool, a strong currency.

It’s the only place I know that is unspoiled by the explosive tourist trade and its currently one of the safest countries to visit in the Middle East. Turkey: it's definitely not just for Christmas.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5154 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5143 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5143 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5094 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5094 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5082 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5082 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5073
If you want to buy coffee to take home with you I would recommend Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi (Tahmis Caddesi 66, very near the Spice Bazaar). Smells lovely and tastes even better.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5073 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5069
If you enjoy shopping and bargaining you'll love it. If you find bargaining and being approached by people a little uncomfortable then the Grand Bazaar is probably not for you.

Yes, it's very touristy. There are endless shops selling apple tea classes, Turkish coffee cups, belly dancing outfits etc. However you can also buy beautiful jewellery, fine fabrics, good value leather goods and, of course, carpets and kilims.

The shop keepers can be persistent but are always hospitable. Often an invitation into a shop will be accompanied by an offer of apple tea or Turkish coffee. If you don't want to buy anything just politely refuse. If you do, then get set to bargain. Offer about half the asking price, or below, and work from there. Have in your mind what you want to pay and stick to it.
Remember, always be polite. And if you do get exhausted with haggling there are plenty of little cafes to sit down in, have a drink and admire the bargains you've bought.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5069 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5068
A good place to shop for gifts to take home. Or some apple tea to accompany the tea glasses you buy at the Grand Bazaar.

The streets around the Spice Market, particularly leading up to the Grand Bazaar, are a crowded, vibrant noisy, confusion of people, shops, stalls and carts.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5068 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5066
The harem, the private living quarters of the Sultan, his wives, concubines and children, is a labyrinth of corridors rooms and courtyards. Some of the rooms, such as the imperial chamber and the dining room of Ahmet III, are exquisitely decorated. Standing in one of the courtyards overlooking the Harem baths it is easy to imagine the daily life of the women here, their frustrations, hopes and ambitions.

In the narrow corridors one can imagine the scheming, intrigue and jostling for position as the favours of the Sultan were vied for.

The third courtyard contains the treasury, where the famous Topkapi dagger is held, and the pavilion of the holy mantle, which contains some of Islam's Hholiest relics. Walking past the room containing the Prophet Mohammed's mantle listening to the sound of chanting as verses of the Koran are recited was a heady, quite emotional experience.

In the fourth courtyard is the Baghdad Pavilion beautifully decorated with blue and white tiles and the gold canopy of the Iftariye Pavilion where there are wonderful views over the Golden Horn.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5066 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5065
The first thing to strike you when entering the nave is its sheer size and scale (the dome reaches a height of 54m, 187 ft). It is worth letting your eyes wander up the walls past the half domes and on to the apex of the main dome which seems to float, as if suspended in the air, above the interior space. Quite dizzying.

The galleries contain some beautiful frescos, you can also get a close up view of the huge plaques bearing calligraphic inscriptions which hang over the nave. The views over the nave itself and the ceiling are fantastic.

Just outside the exit is an exquisite ablutions fountain. Visiting Hagia Sophia is a truly awe-inspiring experience.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5065 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5064 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5064 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5042
Where do you hear that in Britain?]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5042 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/2947
It is a wonderful building. Serene and majestic. The aesthetic of the exterior is beautiful. The way the domes cascade down towards the courtyard. Then the interior of the Mosque itself - spacious and peaceful - with the blues, red and gold of the decoration and the huge yet intricate chandeliers.

During the summer months there is a free Son et Lumiere show just after dusk.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/2947 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/2946
As well as being a place of worship it included a hospital, soup kitchen, school and bath house and a welfare system that tended to the needs of the poor of the city.

The complex is very worthy of the name magnificent. From the soaring minarets, the peacefulness of the courtyard to the beauty and tranquility of the Mosque's interior.

Not as highly decorated as the Blue Mosque, it is equally impressive with its fine masonary, decorated dome and intricate calligraphy.

The tomb of Suleyman, next to the Mosque, is also worth visiting. Ceramic stars are set into the ceiling overlooking the coffins of Suleyman, his daughter and two of his successors.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/2946 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/1372 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/1372 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/1318 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/1318 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5137
That said, a little advice picked up from the experts in the business might be useful.

When looking for carpets, be sure to look around and compare before committing (a little home study before arriving is great too). Try to look for shops with serious tradition (family-owned is a good sign) and an attested reputation; such firms are keen to keep up their business and good name and enjoy repeat business- another good indicator.

Further, you'll be wise to demand Turkish rugs only, with certification. The last few years have seen a proliferation of cheap, mass-produced carpets from Afghanistan and Pakistan passed off as the real thing.

Third, avoid the touts and well-attired persuaders strategically located nearby the prime tourist sites; they are working on commission and not particularly scrupulous.

Now that you know what to look out for, where to go?

The Grand Bazaar is of course the prime place for shoppers (though not the only), teeming with over 4,000 shops of all kinds. Although there are many excellent carpet dealers, one unique and rather hip one is Ethnicon, a small but now quite well known outlet offering unique “fusion” rugs and wall hangings, or "kilims."

The vision of the company was to cater to an emerging market (the modern urban interior of varying degrees of minimalism) while at the same time addressing an acute need: the increasing scarcity of antique carpets coming from Anatolian family collections, which have gone from a flood to a trickle over the past 20 years.

To get around this lack, Ethnicon decided to use what was to be found from damaged antique partial carpets, nomad tent coverings, soft casings, scraps and so on, patching them all together through a 15-step process. The result is alluring rugs and wall decorations that combine old ingredients with modern deco tastes. With widespread media attention, the Ethnicon style has become a brand in its own right.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/5137