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I've been traveling around on a budget for close to three months and this was one of the best places I have stayed. I highly recommend this guesthouse to anyone looking for a great room and great service at an affordable price. The staff booked my tours, drove me everywhere I needed to go to catch buses, and even woke me up extra early to make me a Turkish breakfast when I had an early tour. Location was great and there was a beautiful outdoor breakfast area. All in all, great budget hotel.
Address: Aslanlar cad no 44 Kusadasi
www.sezginhotel.com
I waited outside this mosque for my male friend to finish looking around: having that morning met up with a woman who had been screamed at for being improperly dressed, I was reluctant to risk the same treatment for some perceived infraction.
This site is of religious importance so I was surprised be the subject of sexual harassment there. I actually conducted an experiment whereby I stood perfectly still and allowed the leering men to circle me ever-closer, in an effort to see just how close they would actually get right inside the busy compound of the mosque.
Before my experiment was really completed my companion returned, and so it only behoves me to say if you are female and visit this place do not be lulled into thinking you will be any less harassed once you get there. After living in Istanbul for one year I can honestly say it was the most dangerous place to be female I have ever been to.
If groups of dodgy-looking men jingling change in their pockets and calling 'How much? How much?' as you nip from your house round the corner to the supermarket in broad daylight on a busy street would bother you then you might want to give Istanbul a miss. If you would be annoyed at being ripped off for every item you try to purchase (forget taking a taxi anywhere), sexually harassed by every man at every opportunity or stopped by police to be relived of your passport and then receive demands of payment for it to be returned, then I'd thoroughly recommend you to go somewhere else. A huge pity, because the city itself is unforgettable.
Köyceğiz is a beautiful quiet town with hot summers and friendly local people.
The Lake of Köyceğiz is often said to be as "as smooth as glass" till noon and then great for wind surfing in the afternoon. The Köyceğiz Lake contains almost every kind of seafood from fish to crab.
The Rock Tombs are tombs carved into the rock in Dalyan and date back to the ancient harbour city of Caunos.
The Mud baths are natural hot mud baths - very good for the skin!
Koycegiz, Dalyan
Head towards Rustempasha mosque, away from the Egyptian Bazaar or Spice Market. You'll find twisty streets full of tiny shops, including many selling wooden implements such as paddles for pide ovens, huge sieves, forks and spoons. The spice shops here are half the price of the Egyptian market, too, and if you're lucky you'll see the hamals (market porters) at work, or find a cubbyhole selling cay (tea) inside one of the old han courtyards.
Around Rustempasha mosque, Eminonu
On Peykhane, one of the streets running off Divan Yolu and about ten minutes' walk from Cemberlitas. Unassuming, bright diner, with excellent, cheap meals (pide, kebab, salad, soup), no hassle or hustling, friendly staff, and the best fresh bread we tasted in the whole city. 12-20 liras for two. Convenient for Sultanahmet hotels but out of the tourist beargarden.
Karadeniz kebab, Peykhane
I think it is the best restaurant in Istanbul. Wonderful atmosphere with friendly service. I was very impressed with the menu and excellent quality of the food. Some dishes are exclusive to the restaurant. The Destiny Special is a delightful combination of tender beefsteak with a cream and mushroom sauce, served with a cinnamon cabbage in red wine sauce. Also recommended is the Destiny cake made with spinach - it melted in the mouth and tasted just of vanilla and cream. Don't be put off by the green colour! Definitely worth a visit. Reasonably priced too.
Bereket Mah. Haci Ali Sok. No. 11/A, Galata-Byoglu, Istanbul. Can be found by walking down from Galata Tower or by climbing up the steps by the Oyak Bank near the tramway in Karakoy.
The male camels are decked out in colourful livery with tassels with names shown such as the heroic Thunderbolt, Destiny, Falcon and the more dubious Jackal. The prospective protagonists are introduced to the female to liberate their natural tendency to do battle. Fights last from a few minutes to 15 minutes.
The combatants initially strain against each other, neck to neck. Very occasionally one camel flees. A victory occurs when one camel forces the other to the ground. A well-dressed referee oversees the contests in the ring and officials occupy the one small stand while an announcer describes the detailed action. Can combine with a visit to Ephesus.
Selcuk, Western Turkey - third weekend in January
A great place to watch an authentic folklore and dance show and for dinner. Very happy and friendly atmosphere.
On Cumhuriyet Caddesi, 10 min walk from Taksim Square towards Hilton.
This is a new restaurant which is known as the best seafood restaurant in Sultanahmet. The food is outstanding, you should ask the staff for the special of the day.
The restaurant is on the shore of Marmara Sea with a view of Turkish islands. The "Boukoleon" name comes from the 5th century. There used to be a "Boukoleon Palace" standing right where you sit.
Now you can easily see the archeeological heritage of the old time palace. If you are interested in history, looking for a nice Istanbul view and also outstanding food, I would highly recommend you go to this restaurant.
www.boukoloen.com
Hagia Sofia, Sultanahmet, Istanbul
90212 6387148
This is a beautiful villa with a shared pool (shared with villa opposite) in a quiet town, which is on the edge of a huge lake. It's really beautiful, and we were very well looked after during our stay. We loved it so much that we're heading back in May! If you like diving, it's not far from Dalyan where you can jump on a boat (we used Tripoint Diving) they were very good. Incredible viz, and we dived a great wreck!
Koycegiz (pronounced 'kur-y-jeez') is a wonderful off-the-beaten-track town near Dalaman airport, on a beautiful lake with its own hot springs and mud bath. My family and I stayed there in Villa Jasmine, and had an excellent holiday. We enjoyed its private pool, but also went on a fab boat trip across the lake to the Mediterranean sea. Really recommend it as a holiday spot away from the crowds.
The Lycian coast of Turkey has many jewels: choose from Kalkan, Kas, Gocek or Fethiye. Beautiful villas and apartments at very reasonable prices, frequent scheduled and charter flights, extremely friendly, hospitable and humorous people, roof terrace restaurants offering local delicacies or international cuisine, fabulous swimming and water sports at stunning locations and the longest and best sandy beach in Europe within easy reach. And there are inland excursions and activities and a 20 mile gorge to explore, for the more energetic. The combination is unbeatable and offers exceptional value for a family holiday - just do a little research on the internet!
This is an excursion for the budding adventurers in the family - go in late summer when the icy waters are fairly low and there won't be too much wading required (be prepared for wet legs though!). The 20km long gorge, carved out by the melting snows, is a spectacularly cool walk, with parts to clamber over and pools to cross. If you don't fancy the trek, you can just chill at one of the restaurants built out over the river, drinking apple tea and listening to the music. Go late afternoon to avoid the coach trips and get the benefits of the evening sun.
Treks and walks are possible for residents and visitors alike. Certainly the coast offers beauty beyond description but the forests and mountains, together with the villages and settlements contained within their folds, provide an experience that, unchanged by tourism, contrasts sharply with the local resorts.
This ancient city clings to the side of a mountain high in the hills inland from Finike, on the Lycian coast of Turkey.
It's known as the 'Turkish Delphi', but one of the great things about Arykanda is that it's right off the beaten track, so you don't get the huge crowds you do in Greece. The ruins and setting are equally beautiful and impressive.
We were lucky enough to go there with an archaeologist, Peter Sommer, who knew the site and truly brought it alive for us. We were on a gulet cruise, visiting ancient cities along the way. I had no idea there were so many ruins in Turkey - and so well preserved! But it was Arykanda that really shone out.
Never get angry or show your anger to locals, in shops or markets.
Turks are generally very friendly and hospitable. You may feel pressurised to buy something, but they know you don't have to. If you find it difficult to extricate yourself from a persuasive salesman/woman, just politely say 'No thank you', 'Sorry, not today, thank you' or better still, 'Tesekur' ('Thank you' in Turkish), and walk away.
People going to Ephesus are often ripped off by an exorbitant taxi or transfer from Izmir airport. You can avoid this by taking the train from Izmir Airport to Selçuk. There aren't many trains; they depart the airport at 8.01, 9.38, 15.32, 18.39, 19.34, 20.12 and 21.33 and take 1 ¼ hours. The alternative (if you don't have much baggage) is to walk to the end of the airport slip road (about 1 mile), cross the main road and pick up a minibus.
The train station is right next to the airport and well signposted. The train fare is 2 Lira (80p), the minibus is 6 Lira (£2.50). If you need to get a taxi, you might be able to haggle the price down to 80 to 100 Lira (£30 to 40).
Located in the historic Sultanahmet, district with a roof terrace overlooking the Blue Mosque, this is a friendly hotel right in the heart of old Istanbul. Rooms are really well equipped with toiletries, dressing gowns and all the extras, and the friendly staff are very helpful. Double rooms start from around €60 in low season.
Mimar Mehmet Aga Cad. Amiral Tafdil Sk. No: 22 Sultanahmet, Istanbul
Tel: (212) 638 19 96/97
www.hotelangelshome.com
Jimmy and his family are very very friendly. They are inexpensive, sell everything and take you to their hearts. A trip to Patara without visiting them is a void.
On the road to the beach
Sick of the layers of history in Istanbul? OK, that's unlikely, but here's an alternative for the culturally omnivorous.
Officially the Istanbul Modern Art Museum, it has both a permanent collection of modern Turkish art and visiting exhibitions and installations and is located in the Tophane district, between Karaköy and Dolmabaçhe palace.
Its location is not obvious, though it is not far from the tramway that runs along Necatibey Caddesi - it is on the waterfront, in a converted warehouse-type building, with stunning views of the Bosphorus from its café. Though some detractors will take delight in spotting international influences on some of the Turkish artists, the place itself is a model of museum/gallery planning, with an excellent shop and impressive education activities.
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