Salieri is a new but wonderfully placed art-cafe in the heart of Odessa. An inconspicuous entrance opposite the Mozart hotel, the back opens up to a beautiful old courtyard recently renovated at the back entrance to the Odessa opera house. Meals are very good and reasonable prices - main courses for under £5. As always in Odessa, 75% of the menu is dedicated to alcohol! Just a wonderful place to go and relax.
Langeronoskay str. Odessa
or walk round the back from the left side of the opera house.
This 18th-century house, built for nobility, is now home to a very interesting selection of Ukrainian and Russian art. The exhibits range from 400-year-old icons to 19th- and 20th-century modernists and present day photographers. On the top floor, there's a selection of Soviet era propaganda art.
Strangely, there's also an artificial grotto beneath the building, imitating a cave complete with waterfall. Personally, I'd stick to the art.
A bustling farmers’ market near the station. People come in from miles around to sell their produce, usually at very low prices. The Privoz is a real slice of Ukrainian life. Priests can sometimes be seen blessing the food with holy water.
Privoznaya 14; open 6am-5pm; www.essentialukraine.com
The late-19th century Austrian built opera house is a fine sight to behold from the street, assuming that the scaffolding from extensive restoration has now been dismantled. It’s a world-renowned venue and a major icon of the city, many people visit Odessa just to attend a performance of either opera or ballet.
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