There are few things better than filling up your belly with amazing fresh seafood and then meandering along the waterfront at dusk. This part of Edinburgh has so much history as a once busy port. Now it is home to several amazing (some even Michelin starred) restaurants, and tastefully renovated waterfront areas. Take a seat and watch the big ships roll past.

16 or 22 bus from Prince's st in direction of Ocean Terminal
Google map: bit.ly/Yh7Juj

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According to one architectural guide Edinburgh's famous Cafe Royal has a "swaggering Parisian air". It was opened in 1863 and boasts Corinthian brass lamp standards, tall beveled windows, marble-topped counters and large tile pictures of famous inventors. It was said that this was the venue where Princess Margaret met a certain Roddy Llewellyn. What is less well known is that it was planned as a showroom for sanitary fittings. It’s a wonderful cathedral to the bon vivant – whether on a hot sunny day or a cold winter evening. It’s the sort of place you might go with mates for a swift half and when someone says lets have oysters and champagne everyone says yes!

www.caferoyal.org.uk
19 West Register Street, Edinburgh EH2 2AA
+44(0)131 556 1884
Google map: bit.ly/XqqWuq

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This is a small, but perfectly formed little diner in the heart of student central. The decor is "interesting" and the welcome is friendly. While not top end food the menu includes some of the most authentic Korean food I've had outside of Seoul. Try the brown rice tea. A cracker !

kimsminimeals.com/
5 Buccleuch Street, Edinburgh, EH8 9JN
+44(0)131 629 7951
Google map: bit.ly/NhBSoB

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A very popular fish restaurant on the shore that people keep coming back to. Always a good mix of locals and tourists. There is a bar area where locals come in for a pint or even a glass of champagne.
Had the fish platters and they did not disappoint!
Great quality fish as you come to expect. For two platters, bottle of house white, chips and glasses of port it set us back only £83.
In recent years while we were there we have seen the actor Stellan Skarsgard, cabinet minister Ben Bradshaw, Tom Kitchin (Michelin starred chef) and Celebrity Masterchef winner Nadia Sawalha to name but a few.

www.theshipontheshore.co.uk/
24-26 Shore, Leith, Edinburgh, EH6 6QN
+44(0)131 555 0409
Google map: bit.ly/IpoUSn

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Decent food quickly at very reasonable prices.
We had two mains, one Coke, two bottles of beer for £12.80. It should have cost £15 or so but there was an automatic 20% discount (which seems to occur frequently).
This place serves decent Asian food and not surprisingly given the student population in the area is always busy.
It is quick and cheap and while it will not be garnering any Michelin stars it is somewhere we often go back to when in the area.
Don't believe they do reservations and you can always get a table though you might have to wait a few minutes.

45 South Bridge, Edinburgh , EH1 1LL
Google map: bit.ly/IL8nH4

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As the name suggests, the only food sold here is pork. In the window is a whole hog from which the staff take shredded pork.
The pork is served on rolls (three different sizes) with the choice of stuffing and apple or chilli sauce for extra flavour. That is in essence the menu!
The pork is absolutely amazing!
Some seats on the premises though a lot of people just take away.

www.grassmarket.net/oink.asp
34 Victoria Street, Edinburgh, EH1 2JW
Open daily from 11am
Google map: bit.ly/HNF0ni

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Great bar on the Shore area of Leith in Edinburgh.
Extremely friendly and efficient staff. Feels like a French bar with dark wood and a fire in the corner.
This bar also has a separate eating area though you can eat in bar as well. We had a great fish pie (£8.50) and a steak and kidney pie (£9.50).
The bar, unlike some on the Shore area, is kids friendly.

www.fishersbistros.co.uk/the-shore-bar-and-restaurant.php
3-4 The Shore, Leith, Edinburgh, EH6 6QW
+44(0)131 554 5666
Google map: bit.ly/HEVn49

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A really decent pub.
This is part of the Belhaven chain and has a very good value drinks menu. Additionally the food menu is very reasonably priced and very tasty - a step above a lot of pubs.
In the less busy times of the week, there are great deals to be had on food and drink.
They even have a 'Man V Food' challenge on Tuesdays!
The pub is situated on the popular Shore area of Edinburgh (Leith) and feels like a pub that should be in a port with all the nautical memorabilia on the walls.

www.belhavenpubs.co.uk/pub/get_pub/77/
58 The Shore, Leith, Edinburgh, EH6 6RA
+44(0)131 554 2425
Google map: bit.ly/Ir9Y7H

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Over the past ten years, Jeffrey Street’s La Garrigue has steadily built up a loyal following of regulars who don’t need Gordon Ramsay’s endorsement to tell them that this is French food made to the highest order. And then 12 months ago, La Garrigue opened a sister branch on the other side of town, so I popped along to see if the food there was up to scratch.

There is a friendly, welcoming atmosphere and La Garrigue’s whole ambience is similar to sitting in a friend’s front room. Offering wonderful service and mouth-watering dishes, three courses for £30 is exceptional value for the fine ingredients and culinary skill. Be sure to take your appetite.

www.lagarrigue.co.uk‎
14 Eyre Place, Edinburgh EH3 5EP
+44(0)131 5581608
Google map: bit.ly/ydGkYf

* Rachel is our Been there local for Edinburgh. You can view her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/edinburgh-local-rachel-brown.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/RachelBrown

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The word 'gastropub' is so overused these days but this establishment certainly deserves that tag.
Have been here many times before and as usual it did not disappoint. Good food, friendly service and great value. There is a wide choice on the menu (and on specials board).
My wife had lentil soup as well as mackerel pate with oatcakes while I had the homemade burger. Portion sizes were big and together with two drinks only set us back £22.
This place never seems to be in various restaurant listing publications but it is well known to people from the Leith area as a place to be treasured.
Kitchen open 10 am - 10pm.

44 Queen Charlotte street, EH6 7EX Edinburgh
+44(0)131 554 1979
www.facebook.com/thecompassleith
Google map: bit.ly/z5Zxmi

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Good location for food and drink. The menu while on the face of it looks like a typical bar menu is inventive. You'll find things like rabbit burgers and pheasant on the menu that you wouldn't normally find in a bar. The food is very much moving towards 'gastropub' territory.
On Saturday nights the bar is packed as they have live music. Even when it is quieter it is nice to sit down with a nice pint.
Family friendly.

www.noblesbarleith.co.uk/
44a Constitution street, Edinburgh EH6 6RS
+44(0)131 629 7215
Google map: bit.ly/z8TeR1

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Right in the heart of the shopping district, the ‘Place to Eat’ at John Lewis in the St James Centre, is a great place for a bite to eat. It might be in the middle of a department store, but the food is good and the restaurant has stunning views out across the city if you can elbow your way to a window seat.

www.johnlewis.com
St James Centre, Edinburgh EH1 3SP
+44(0)131 556 9121
Google map: bit.ly/ux1yCS

* Rachel is our Been there local for Edinburgh. You can view her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/edinburgh-local-rachel-brown.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/RachelBrown

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If you’re near to the Royal Mile you could try the little Turkish treasure Café Truva. The hot chocolate is to die for, and the place just charming. The danger is you’ll make yourself so comfortable you’ll forget all about the Christmas shopping.

www.cafetruva.com/
251-253 Canongate Eh8 8BQ
+44(0)131 556 9524
Google map: bit.ly/rM6LCm

* Rachel is our Been there local for Edinburgh. You can view her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/edinburgh-local-rachel-brown.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/RachelBrown

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Henderson’s Vegetarian Restaurant at 94 Hanover Street provides anything from light snacks to a full meal – and with its location just minutes away from the charming George Street, it’s a great place to rest your feet and tuck into a hearty healthy lunch. There is a gorgeous deli and shop too – the perfect place to stock up on gifts for foodie friends.

www.hendersonsofedinburgh.co.uk/
94 Hanover Street, Edinburgh, EH2 1DR
+44(0)131 225 2131
Google map: bit.ly/tPQ6vi

* Rachel is our Been there local for Edinburgh. You can view her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/edinburgh-local-rachel-brown.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/RachelBrown

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They say drinking tea is a British obsession. Well, it certainly is an obsession of mine.

As autumn weather blows into the city, I can think of nothing better than taking shelter in a teashop and lovingly wrapping myhands around a good old mug of tea. And I’ve found a new tea-shop, and what a cracker it is too.
Eteaket is hidden just minutes from the busy Princes Street but provides a welcome relief from the chains that dominate the high street.
This ‘tea boutique’ is quirky and charming - and there’s not a teabag in sight. Hand-picked tea leaves and more types of tea than you could ever dream up – this quaint yet funky tea room also does a fine range in accompanying cakes.
The etiquette here is to sit back and enjoy your cuppa, so why not give a try. The earl grey comes highly recommended. As does the scone and jam now you come to mention it.

www.eteaket.co.uk/
41 Frederick St, Edinburgh EH2 1EP
+44(0)1312262982
Google map: bit.ly/mUQ6Ot

* Rachel is our Been there local for Edinburgh. You can view her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/edinburgh-local-rachel-brown.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/RachelBrown

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Sometimes a fry up is exactly what the doctor ordered. This is a super little no frills, no fuss, ‘clean as your Grannie’s kitchen,’ café on Leven Street. Large mugs of builder’s tea for less than the cost of your bus ticket. Try a ‘tattie scone’ for the full Scottish breakfast experience.

27 Leven Street, West End , Edinburgh EH3 9LH
Google map: bit.ly/nWMZYO

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If a fine and inexpensive cup of coffee is the potion that you require, then head up to Nicholson Street and pull up a pew in this little café, alongside the totem poles and pot plants.
Free wi-fi means you can stay in touch with the outside world as you hibernate in a warm corner.

www.blackmed.co.uk
2 Nicolson Street, Southside, Edinburgh, EH8 9DH
+44(0)131 557 6269
Google map: bit.ly/r6PRM9

* Rachel is our Been there local for Edinburgh. You can view her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/edinburgh-local-rachel-brown.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/RachelBrown

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This little gem defies the scourge of the Royal Mile and is actually good. Genuinely friendly staff delight in serving you their latest fresh offerings.
Feel your hangover disappear with their delicious bacon roll, or enjoy a Scottish breakfast of smoked salmon and bagels.
Plenty of suitably de-toxing teas to go around.
Watch the crowds rush by along the Royal Mile from your own spot in the window. You really will wish it was always Sunday.

www.alwayssunday.co.uk
170 High Street, Edinburgh, City of Edinburgh EH1 1QS
+44(0)131 622 0667
Google map: bit.ly/oiHPDJ

* Rachel is our Been there local for Edinburgh. You can view her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/edinburgh-local-rachel-brown.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/RachelBrown

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Wonderful authentic Vietnamese restaurant in the centre of Edinburgh.
Though small, the food is superb and great value.
Run by a young woman from Saigon so you can be sure of its authenticity.
No drink licence yet but its BYOB with only £1.50 corkage fee.

3 Grove Street, Edinburgh, EH3 8AF
+44(0)131 228 3383
www.vietnamhousescotland.com
Google map: bit.ly/gDo6ov

Just off Morrison Street, a stone's throw away from Haymarket Railway station.

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Honest food at honest prices. "Real" beef or chicken or bacon burgers, traditionally with bun or healthily with salad, with thick shakes...or Fentimans Ginger beer, and on the Roral Mile,too. Rightly poular with families, locals and tourists.

217 High Street, Edinburgh
Google map: tinyurl.com/3y697ea

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