Even when I was living in Edinburgh I didn't know about his little gem - it took visiting an American expat who'd moved there to discover the joys of being taken around the Firth of Forth by a pretty little ferry, and seeing seals, puffins and other wildlife with an entertaining commentary from the skipper about local sights. You could just do the round trip cruise, but it's worth stopping off at Inchcolm to for magnificent 360 degree views from the historic abbey and a picnic on the beach. My only regret was not having time to do the evening jazz cruise - maybe another time!

30 minutes by bus or car from the centre of Edinburgh (three buses per hour; by car follow the signs for the Forth Road Bridge then the brown tourist signs for Inchcolm Abbey Ferry, then head for Hawes Pier under the Rail Bridge). By train get off at Dalmeny Station from Edinburgh. www.maidoftheforth.co.uk 0131 331 5000 (sailings from April to October, though they also do private charters and weddings!)

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