United Kingdom
A strange little shop, filled to bursting point with fairy, gnome, imp and pixie figurines. The whole place is like entering the underworld. The shop itself is definitely on the cosy side, and with fairies hanging from the ceiling and surrounding you it seems positively minuscule. The fairies and pixies definitely rule this shop, humans can only visit for as long as you can stand the powerful incense that fills whatever room is left.
57 Cockburn Street, Edinburgh, EH1 1BS
+44(0)131 225 8207
Google map: bit.ly/tbEBIL
Mr Woods Fossils sells exactly what it says (and no crystals.) There are large slabs of rock with a lot of fossils in them and huge ammonites but also plenty of interesting smaller specimens as well as some which are pocket money sized. There are also usually the most amazing fossils of fish and shrimp like creatures. When you've done the tartan and whisky bit in Edinburgh this is the place to go.
www.mrwoodsfossils.co.uk/
5 Cowgatehead, Grassmarket, Edinburgh, EH11JY
+44(0)131 220 1344
Google map: bit.ly/uXYmf2
Right in the heart of the shopping district, the ‘Place to Eat’ at John Lewis in the St James Centre, is a great place for a bite to eat. It might be in the middle of a department store, but the food is good and the restaurant has stunning views out across the city if you can elbow your way to a window seat.
www.johnlewis.com
St James Centre, Edinburgh EH1 3SP
+44(0)131 556 9121
Google map: bit.ly/ux1yCS
* Rachel is our Been there local for Edinburgh. You can view her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/edinburgh-local-rachel-brown.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/RachelBrown
So many visitors leave Edinburgh having only made it to the shops of Princes Street. And what a shame this is.
Princes Street may have one of the best views of any high-street in Britain, (Edinburgh’s lovely castle) but the big high-street stores and garish tartan tat shops show nothing of the one-off boutiques, local designers, vintage stores and dusty bookstores that lurk off the beaten track.
Here are three of my favourite shopping stops:
1. Totty Rocks – 40 Victoria Street, Old Town
Little boutique designer shop run by two friends, and packed full with retro chic creations. They love to put their own twist on a classic look, so stand out from the crowd in one of their own unique designs.
2. W M Armstrong’s – 81-83 Grassmarket, Old Town
This world famous vintage store is packed to the rafters with plenty of wonders from the past few decades. Anyone with even the slightest interest in clothes should pay a visit.
3. Armchair books - 72-74 West Port, Old Town
This old-school second hand bookstore has been delighting for more than 15 years. The shop itself looks as if it is entirely built of books and has that wonderfully musty old-book smell that Waterstones somewhat lacks. Lose yourself in the shelves.
Totty Rocks:
www.tottyrocks.co.uk/
40 Victoria Street, Edinburgh, EH1 2JW
+44 (0) 131 226 3232
Google map: bit.ly/onN1oZ
WM Armstrong's:
www.armstrongsvintage.co.uk/
83 The Grassmarket, Edinburgh, EH1 2HJ
+44(0)131 220 5557
Google map: bit.ly/pNGBoF
Armchair Books:
www.armchairbooks.co.uk/
72-74 West Port, Edinburgh, EH1 2LE
+44(0)0131 229 5927
Google map: bit.ly/pHQDUs
* Rachel is our Been there local for Edinburgh. You can view her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/edinburgh-local-rachel-brown.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/RachelBrown
After travelling to both Milan and Rome, two of the most influential cities of Europe fashion-wise and finding nothing but street after street of generic designer boutiques, I was ecstatic to find Edinburgh riddled with vintage clothes boutiques. Not only does South Bridge and Nicolson Street play host to several charity shops, often home to the most wonderfully unique pieces, but W. Armstrong & Son (founded in 1840) is the true heart of Edinburgh vintage. Found on The Grassmarket, room after room is filled with genuine World War II jackets and 1940's fancy dress; complete with trunk full’s of top hats, wigs and Venetian masks. Although W. Armstrong & Son is the crème de la crème of retro fashion, other vintage gems can also be found along Teviot Place and on Frederick Street.
81-83 Grassmarket, Edinburgh, Midlothian EH1 2HJ
www.armstrongsvintage.co.uk/
Google map: bit.ly/chE2vT
A fantasic place to stay when visiting Edinburgh, the staff were extremely friendly and helpful, great local knowledge. It has views of the castle and is right in the heart of the city. The room itself was awesome with great personlised touches, homemade muffins yum :) We also dined in the restaurant and we loved the food and service, we wouldn't normally dine where we stay, but was so glad we did and we even got a 10% discount which we thought was a nice touch. We really enjoyed our stay, I'm sure you will too – it's a little gem.
www.therutlandhotel.com
Google map: tinyurl.com/y2as29r
Superb four star hotel just opened last month. It's located at the end of Princes Street which is a great city centre spot. Facilities include pool, gym, bar and restaurant, rooms are brand new with all modern gadgets, wi-fi throughout. The bar is a trendy hangout to see and be seen in. For some of the best shopping in Scotland turn right onto Princes Street when you exit.
Tel: 0871 288 1208
www.apexhotels.co.uk/hotels/edinburgh-waterloo-place/
Its a emporium of everything ladies love. From unusual lingerie and nick nacks, to the most divine home made cup cakes ever. We had a decadent afternoon tea served in the cafe which was absolutely five-star.
15 William Street, at the West End. Lots of lovely speciality shop in the street too
Edinburgh isn't exactly a city that hides its charms: a castle bang in the centre of town atop dramatic cliffs, a gothic skyline, a cobbled old town crammed full of tourist shops, a Georgian 'New Town' of refined restaurants and leafy squares, and several celebrated museums and galleries.
However, if you tire of tourists and want to seek real, everyday Edinburgh, consider a trip to the district just south-west of the city centre. Tollcross isn't what you would call beautiful, but is home to some of the city's finest ethnic restaurants (such as Number 1 Sushi and Lai Thai), as well as the King's Theatre and the Cameo Cinema. One of the finest arthouse cinemas in the country, the Cameo is both atmospheric and cheap, and with several screens offers something for every discerning cinema goer, as well as a much loved bar seeping with old-world atmosphere. The Beckett Pub nearby is similarly atmospheric, and neighbourhood newcomer, Cuckoo's Nest offers some of the cities best value for money drinks (particularly the cocktails).
Heading up the hill, you reach the Bruntsfield Links on your left, and beyond spectacular views across the Meadows to the Castle, Old Town and Arthur's Seat. Bruntsfield itself is one of the city's loveliest districts, a pleasing mixture of vibrant student district and upscale residential neighbourhood. Its main drag is home to several quality restaurants and bars, as well as a handful of intriguing shops, especially for foodies.
Coco's is arguably Edinburgh's best chocolatier, and sits near to a branch of Peckham's delicatessen and an extravagant cake shop. For those who wish to continue, the main road heads down into extremely well-heeled Morningside (though the shopping strip is perhaps a little underwhelming), and neighbouring the Grange and Merchiston, all of which are home to some beautiful Victorian villas on their leafy streets, and are a pleasure to stroll around.
Tollcross is at the southern end of Lothian Road, a ten-fifteen minute walk from all parts of central Edinburgh. The main road, Gilmore Place-Bruntsfield Place leads up the hill to Bruntsfield and then round towards Morningside. Multiple buses to all of these neighbourhoods, see Lothian Buses website.
If up near the castle it is well worth wandering down through the Grass Market as a previous reader has remarked. Where the road continues into West Port there are some splendid shops tourists might not otherwise find. Just by walking a bit more I came across a wonderful shop, Cabaret Antiques and Curios, which is spread over two floors and has an extraordinary selection of antiques, knick knacks, curios, books and other treasures. I found presents for several people in here and the prices seemed very reasonable. The owners seem happy for you to browse and take your time. It was an unexpected surprise and proves it is well worth exploring sometimes away from the usual tourist areas. Edinburgh is definitely a city for walking and exploring, especially the old town bit all around the castle which so dominates the city.
137 West Port
Edinburgh
EH3 9DP
0131 229 4100
This wonderful little book really made our shopping trip to Edinburgh. It's full of inside information, and having it in our pocket was like having a knowledgeable local with us. An added bonus was discovering parts of the city that we would otherwise have missed.
You can buy it from bookshops or online at www.edinburghshopguide.com
... Is, in my opinion, in Broughton Street, and looks so posh from the outside that I hardly dare to go in. Everything is spotless, and it isn't even that expensive. They also sell award winning self-made ale pies and Haggis in one-person sausage-like portions.
The head butcher has a really big belly, which in my opinion is a quality trademark of good butchers, as they want to serve customers fresh produce but don't like to throw their high quality products away - so they eat it themselves. That's the same with my village butcher at home.
Apart from that, there is a wide variety of special sausages to try for free - from wild boar to beef with blackberries and Lucifer's matchsticks.
The butcher is also very friendly and chatty, and they have leaflets on their products such as the history of Haggis and Burn's supper, including a variety of poems. They might even recite them for you at the till to get you to hear them with the original Scots language.
Crombie's of Edinburgh: 97 Broughton Street;
www.sausages.co.uk
To get a real flavour of the celebratory nature of the locals and the town, it is a good idea to visit just before or at Christmas time, when the Christmas fair is on in the city centre. It brings alive the kid in you with a ferris wheel, a very enchanting fortune teller and other rides. Besides, you can gorge on mulled wine every evening and eat scrumptuous street food while you browse through local knick knacks at the German market or empty your purse at the high street big brand sales. Very memorable!
Various locations in the centre of Edinburgh;
www.eventful-edinburgh.com/events/christmas.html
This street is great for shopping with the smaller shops selling souvenirs and kilts and the outside stalls selling handcrafted goods. It is really peaceful too as cars are banned from this street.
It also has a buzzing atmosphere in the evening with people drinking in the many pubs and eateries with funny names like Filthy McNasty and Dirty Dicks. It's a great place to mingle with the Scots.
Rose Street runs parallel to Princes Street between St Andrews Square and Charlotte Square.
Not always on the tourist trail, home to the Last Drop pub, scene of executions in years gone by, and also some good places to eat and interesting shops - Two Fat Ladies cookshop, Mr Woods Fossils and some amazing jumper shops.
Down the winding hill from Greyfrairs Bobby - the most over-rated dog in town.
If you’re a foodie, find the ultimate deli: Valvonna and Crolla. This is for the serious gourmet. Squeeze past each other in the narrow tiled aisles and avoid the hanging salamis and hams overhead. Sample the succulent fat-laden mortadella. Be tempted by the transparent shavings of prosciutto freshly cut. Indulge your baser instincts in the creamy soft blue St Agur that slowly melts on the tongue to the gentle persuasion of Graham’s Vintage Port. And for a present to bring home? An estate bottled olive oil from Umbria? Some bulbs of roasted garlic from the Languedoc? And as for wine...
When the finest Italian food shop in the country only sells one fresh sausage, you know it's going to be good. Valvona & Crolla's Fonteluna doesn't disappoint. This is a solid, semi-cured sausage flavoured with chilli and fennel. As it is semi-cured it can be eaten raw as a salami or cooked. It can be cooked by either frying or grilling. As it is a dry sausage it really needs a wet sauce - I like it diced in a tomato sauce, thinly sliced and used as a pizza topping or with peppers.
It's not cheap at £4.95 for 265g but this is concentrated, strong tasting sausage with no water or cheap filler. Highly recommended! It would be a hard soul that would not come out of here the richer in taste and the poorer in pocket. Worth visiting on a Sunday morning, especially for their imported Indian peppercorns, or just to sit and have tea in their restaurant while the world muses and peruses. Blue Mountain coffee or green tea? Jalapenos peppers or habaneros?
Valvona & Crolla: 19 Elm Row, Edinburgh EH7 4AA
VinCaffè: 11 Multrees Walk, Edinburgh EH1 3DQ;
www.valvonacrolla.co.uk
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