United Kingdom
They say drinking tea is a British obsession. Well, it certainly is an obsession of mine.
As autumn weather blows into the city, I can think of nothing better than taking shelter in a teashop and lovingly wrapping myhands around a good old mug of tea. And I’ve found a new tea-shop, and what a cracker it is too.
Eteaket is hidden just minutes from the busy Princes Street but provides a welcome relief from the chains that dominate the high street.
This ‘tea boutique’ is quirky and charming - and there’s not a teabag in sight. Hand-picked tea leaves and more types of tea than you could ever dream up – this quaint yet funky tea room also does a fine range in accompanying cakes.
The etiquette here is to sit back and enjoy your cuppa, so why not give a try. The earl grey comes highly recommended. As does the scone and jam now you come to mention it.
www.eteaket.co.uk/
41 Frederick St, Edinburgh EH2 1EP
+44(0)1312262982
Google map: bit.ly/mUQ6Ot
* Rachel is our Been there local for Edinburgh. You can view her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/edinburgh-local-rachel-brown.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/RachelBrown
With it being Children's Book Week I can only encourage all families to get out and visit some of the amazing places here in the UK that have links to brilliant children's books. In Scotland you could visit the Scottish Storytelling Centre in Edinburgh, JM Barie's birthplace in Kirriemuir. Crossing the border Harry Potter fans should visit Alnwick Castle before hitting Seven Stories in Newcastle, currently the only exhibition space in the UK dedicated to the celebration of British children’s literature. Crossing the Pennines you'll find the World of Beatrix Potter at Bowness-on-Windermere with the National Trust owned former home of Beatrix Potter nearby. Moving further south there are two delights for Dahl lovers - the Roald Dahl Children’s Gallery in Buckinghamshire County Museum, Aylesbury and The Roald Dahl Museum and Story Centre in Great Missenden. London is home to a wealth of children's literature attractions: Discover – The story making centre in Stratford is a good place to start and a visit to the Illustration Cupboard (just of Regent Street), an art gallery representing contemporary book illustrators from around the world is a must. If you're looking for locations which feature in children's literature (although they may not have actual visitor attractions there) the website Storybook England is brilliant (www.storybookengland.com/). Pack a picnic, a good book or two to read together and visit a location from a favourite book of your childhood!
Definitely one of the coolest hotels and bars in the world let alone Edinburgh. Small and intimate, stylish, and with a fantastic restaurant, this is a must for anyone visiting Edinburgh.
www.ricksedinburgh.co.uk
55a Frederick Street, Edinburgh EH2 1LH
+44(0)131 622 7800
Google map: bit.ly/qJVOif
Sometimes a fry up is exactly what the doctor ordered. This is a super little no frills, no fuss, ‘clean as your Grannie’s kitchen,’ café on Leven Street. Large mugs of builder’s tea for less than the cost of your bus ticket. Try a ‘tattie scone’ for the full Scottish breakfast experience.
27 Leven Street, West End , Edinburgh EH3 9LH
Google map: bit.ly/nWMZYO
If a fine and inexpensive cup of coffee is the potion that you require, then head up to Nicholson Street and pull up a pew in this little café, alongside the totem poles and pot plants.
Free wi-fi means you can stay in touch with the outside world as you hibernate in a warm corner.
www.blackmed.co.uk
2 Nicolson Street, Southside, Edinburgh, EH8 9DH
+44(0)131 557 6269
Google map: bit.ly/r6PRM9
* Rachel is our Been there local for Edinburgh. You can view her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/edinburgh-local-rachel-brown.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/RachelBrown
This little gem defies the scourge of the Royal Mile and is actually good. Genuinely friendly staff delight in serving you their latest fresh offerings.
Feel your hangover disappear with their delicious bacon roll, or enjoy a Scottish breakfast of smoked salmon and bagels.
Plenty of suitably de-toxing teas to go around.
Watch the crowds rush by along the Royal Mile from your own spot in the window. You really will wish it was always Sunday.
www.alwayssunday.co.uk
170 High Street, Edinburgh, City of Edinburgh EH1 1QS
+44(0)131 622 0667
Google map: bit.ly/oiHPDJ
* Rachel is our Been there local for Edinburgh. You can view her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/edinburgh-local-rachel-brown.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/RachelBrown
So many visitors leave Edinburgh having only made it to the shops of Princes Street. And what a shame this is.
Princes Street may have one of the best views of any high-street in Britain, (Edinburgh’s lovely castle) but the big high-street stores and garish tartan tat shops show nothing of the one-off boutiques, local designers, vintage stores and dusty bookstores that lurk off the beaten track.
Here are three of my favourite shopping stops:
1. Totty Rocks – 40 Victoria Street, Old Town
Little boutique designer shop run by two friends, and packed full with retro chic creations. They love to put their own twist on a classic look, so stand out from the crowd in one of their own unique designs.
2. W M Armstrong’s – 81-83 Grassmarket, Old Town
This world famous vintage store is packed to the rafters with plenty of wonders from the past few decades. Anyone with even the slightest interest in clothes should pay a visit.
3. Armchair books - 72-74 West Port, Old Town
This old-school second hand bookstore has been delighting for more than 15 years. The shop itself looks as if it is entirely built of books and has that wonderfully musty old-book smell that Waterstones somewhat lacks. Lose yourself in the shelves.
Totty Rocks:
www.tottyrocks.co.uk/
40 Victoria Street, Edinburgh, EH1 2JW
+44 (0) 131 226 3232
Google map: bit.ly/onN1oZ
WM Armstrong's:
www.armstrongsvintage.co.uk/
83 The Grassmarket, Edinburgh, EH1 2HJ
+44(0)131 220 5557
Google map: bit.ly/pNGBoF
Armchair Books:
www.armchairbooks.co.uk/
72-74 West Port, Edinburgh, EH1 2LE
+44(0)0131 229 5927
Google map: bit.ly/pHQDUs
* Rachel is our Been there local for Edinburgh. You can view her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/edinburgh-local-rachel-brown.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/RachelBrown
There is a sign above the door of this Edinburgh institution which reads. “Purveyors of fine ales and spirits. Home of world renowned folk music,” and this little place does exactly what it says on the tin.
Impromptu folk sessions, a wide range of fine ales and a superb evening awaits in this tiny and unassuming pub. Plenty of regulars and tourists flock here each night as live musicians provide the soundtrack.
A great atmosphere is guaranteed, so sit back (or more likely prop up the bar) and enjoy your pint. We guarantee you’ll be tapping your foot before long.
25 Forrest Road, Edinburgh, Midlothian EH1 2QH
+44(0)131 225 2751
Google map: bit.ly/roJ9bV
Hidden on a corner of George Street, you can’t fail to breathe in the sweet coffee aroma as you walk past Wellingtons. Change your plans and make time to head down the steps and into the shop.
You might not get a table in this small but charming haunt, but find a spare stool and make friends with someone new.
Try a flat white and one of the large slabs of the cake that adorns the counter.
If you encounter a sunny day, pull up a pew at a pavement table, and watch the people of Edinburgh hurry by.
33a George Street, Edinburgh, EH2 2HN
+44(0)131 225 6857
Google map: bit.ly/olHTy5
* Rachel is our Been there local for Edinburgh. You can view her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/articles/edinburgh-local-rachel-brown.jsp and follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/RachelBrown
It's written by a local person in Edinburgh, who provides honest and detailed reviews of restaurants and bars in Edinburgh. Photos are provided too, so you can see what your meal looks like and if it's appetising!
To walk from Balerno to Leith Docks, along the Water of Leith is truly a walk through this city – as you stroll along sparkling water and weirs, you’ll see all manner of Edinburgh – ancient, old and new, rich and poor; grand-scale housing, colony housing, tenement housing; a glimpse of the lives people live, stunning scenery, many birds, industrial sites, a shout of graffiti and Anthony Gormley’s six times. New flood defences are also being built along the way. Passing strollers will greet you with a smile and a nod to the day.
Take the 44 bus to Balerno High School, the walk is signposted to the left. Part railway path, mostly riverside there is countryside, Colinton Dell, allotments, the Water of Leith Visitors Centre (an unimposing building and gives the history of this once hard-working river) onto industrial areas, then a beautiful stroll from Roseburn to the Modern Art galleries (great art, great café) and is where the Anthony Gormely 6 Times begins, onto historical Dean Village and New Town, St Bernards Well, Stockbridge, Bonnington where industrial meets regeneration and on to where the Water of Leith meets the Firth of Forth at Leith Docks and AG #6 looks out to sea, (well worth the walk) on one side adjacent to the Royal Yacht Britannia, the other to working dockland.
One of the beauties of this urban walk is you can jump off the beaten track at any time – to have a break, explore (and you will be tempted!) or get a bus! I’ve lived around the city centre most of my life and I love walking here, and never fail to see something new.
www.waterofleith.org.uk/
24 Lanark Road, Edinburgh EH14 1TQ
+44(0)131 455 7367
Google map: bit.ly/qb4oGh
Starting in the Pentland Hills, The Water of Leith Walkway takes you through leafy Juniper Green along the old Colinton railway and Dell then through Edinburgh to the Firth of Forth. The full walk is 13 miles but for a half-day easy stroll you can start halfway at the Water of Leith Visitor Centre and get a view of the importance of this river to Edinburgh. Once boasting 70 mills producing paper, flour, snuff and textiles, it flows from the rural Pentland Hills through Edinburgh to Leith’s busy port.
Follow the meandering river downstream to the preserved Dean Village deep in a gorge spanned by Thomas Telford’s dramatic Dean Bridge. Here you can stop off at the Gallery of Modern Art. At Canonmills leave the trail for a visit to the Edinburgh Botanic Gardens.
The walkway passes through considerable woodland and the river flourishes with wildlife; brown trout, grayling, eels and otters have been seen. There are kingfishers, herons, wagtails and dippers. You may also see roe deer and otters.
End up with a visit to the Royal Yacht Britannia docked at Leith’s Ocean Terminal and immerse yourself in the bustling splendour of this great whaling and shipping port.
www.waterofleith.org.uk/
24 Lanark Road, Edinburgh EH14 1TQ
+44(0)131 455 7367
Google map: bit.ly/qb4oGh
Castle Rock’s smaller sibling is Calton Hill, a grassy spot some 450ft above sea level at the east end of Princes Street. It is from this spot that every postcard shot of the city has been taken, so take a wander up and take in the view for yourself.
Explore the strange structures at the top – including the locally named ‘Edinburgh’s disgrace’ – an overambitious attempt to replicate the Parthenon in the ‘Athen’s of the North.’
Take a picnic and take this short walk to one of the finest views of Princes Street, the Castle and beyond.
Google map: bit.ly/qNhCjl
The Water of Leith is Edinburgh's secret river, winding a 12 mile path from the outer suburb of Balerno right through the heart of the City until it emerges near the docked Royal Yacht Britannia. If you pick up the trail behind the National Gallery of Modern Art then the last few miles are enlivened by spotting five life-sized Anthony Gormley figures who stand in the river bed.
Well signposted nearby, easiest found behind the National Gallery of Modern Art
24 Lanark Road, Edinburgh, Midlothian EH14 1TQ
+44(0)131 455 7367
Google map: bit.ly/p2NMgS
Little Sparta is a garden created by the artist Ian Hamilton Finlay over four decades. It is unique and delightful. As you wander round you are continually surprised as you encounter his many art works.
www.littlesparta.co.uk/
Google map: bit.ly/jJWquh
It's a great music venue and also hosts a wide variety of shows and events from philosophy and comedy to mountain bike films. My favourite ever show was by Joshua Radin. The club is small but has a great atmosphere and even serves hot chocolate!
37 Holyrood Road, Edinburgh EH8 8BA
www.thebongoclub.co.uk/index.php
+44 (0)131 558 7604
Google map: bit.ly/iwsM7k
Fantastic small gallery with some of the most innovative exhibitions in the city. Best to plan ahead and set aside some time if you are interested in the video pieces. Very helpful and friendly staff as well.
23 Cockburn Street, Edinburgh, EH1 1BP
+44 (0) 131 622 6200
www.stills.org
Google map: bit.ly/gRiRmm
Not a gallery in the accepted sense, nevertheless a Georgian square in Edinburgh's New Town has been transformed into an outdoor gallery displaying amazing, giant sized natural history photographs. The exhibition is part of the city’s Science Festival and runs until May 1st. Many more people were admiring the work displayed in this setting than I’ve seen visiting more conventional galleries.
St Andrew's Square, Edinburgh
www.sciencefestival.co.uk
Google map: bit.ly/f9zD4n
Gorgeous, good value and amazing range of vegetarian and vegan food. There is a nightly programme of live music ranging from jazz, folk to more contemporary styles. Henderson's of Edinburgh is also an arts venue housing Janet and Mac Gallery and there are regular exhibitions, openings and charity events. It is a cultural hub, home to many monthly community meetings including the Scottish animal welfare society.
94 Hanover Street, Edinburgh, EH2 1DR
www.hendersonsofedinburgh.co.uk
+44(0)131 225 2131
Google map:P bit.ly/ermhvL
Just off Edinburgh's Royal Mile, David Bann's is a modern adventurous veggie restaurant. It says on the menu there are no microwaves in the kitchen, and you can taste the results of that in the food. The combinations are delicious and you don't get a fiddly little portion in the middle of a big plate - you get such a large portion that I have never managed to get through the full three courses. It's very reasonably priced (mains are £10 - £13 )and is guaranteed to be full on a Saturday night. Inspiration for the menu comes from all round the world and the puddings in particular are top notch.
56-58 St Mary's Street, Edinburgh, EH1 1SX
+44(0)131 556 5888
www.davidbann.com
Google map: bit.ly/hmFS9E
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