- Ilfracombe
- (12)
-
United Kingdom
Historic hand carved tunnels which lead to rockpools and blue flag beaches.
Best to go here when the tide is low giving you a better chance to see a wider variety of 'creatures'.
Also not very far from the tunnels is the Watermouth Castle. As well as the castle and dungeon there is a theme park, gardens and maze.
Tunnels Beach:
www.tunnelsbeaches.co.uk/
+44(0)1271 879123
Watermouth Castle:
www.watermouthcastle.com/
Berrynarbor, Ilfracombe, Devon, EX34 9SL
+44(0)1271 867474
Google map: bit.ly/hsqbNG
I'm not a great horse rider but there's something about the activity which inspires my romantic notions. While on holiday in Woolacombe I booked some riding lessons with Hannah (based along the coast in Ilfracombe) and she got me riding confidently within a few hours. I joined a group for a beach ride later on in the week and while it wasn't exactly the scene out of the Black Stallion film when he gallops bareback through the surf but it was close enough for me.
I'll never be a dressage queen but Hannah has got me to a level where I can ride ok and will definitely be including as part of future trips.
About two miles west of Ilfracombe - as the crow flies - lies this small gem of a seaside village. It's set in a very deep 'combe' or valley and is one of those places where you genuinely feel as though you've stepped back in time. The village can be reached by road where you can experience the vertiginous descent through narrow lanes or by footpath across the cliffs from Ifracombe with wonderful sea views.
Once there you can enjoy a variety of pleasures - visiting the Fuschia tea gardens or the Grampus pub, taking one of several excellent walks, or just enjoying the wonderful little rocky cove and beach which for many is the highlight that really provides Lee with its charm.
From Ilfracombe take the B3231 passing through Slade valley and Lincombe then descend into Lee.
www.leebay.co.uk/
Combe Martin is about six miles out of Ilfracombe on the A39.
It's excellent for rockpools. Head onto the beach and walk to the cliffs on the right. At low tide you will find a path that follows the base of the cliff and around the headland about 200m.
It has an abundance of big and small rockpools full of sealife.
Keeps the kids (and dads) happy for hours.
There is also a lovely stretch of sandy beach exposed beyond the water break at low tide.
A few miles south of Ilfracombe are the villages of Croyde, Saunton and Braunton. What they all have in common are huge sandy beaches and conditions that have become well known for surfing. If you don’t surf, just get an ice cream and watch – it’s quite entertaining.
Croyde, Saunton, Braunton
www.croydedevon.co.uk/
Just a couple of miles up the road from Ilfracombe is the small resort of Woolacombe. The most remarkable thing about it is its huge sandy beach with a warren of dunes behind it. Most people seem to crowd together at the town end, but if you're prepared to put in a little exercise you can have the pick of the mile or so of sand that stretches before you.
Woolacombe
Apart from those who will only walk on tarmac roads, this island truly caters for all ages. Being a happy urban family, we spent a week here with our 3 kids (then aged 6,9 and 11) and they are begging to go back.
My husband used to love philosophising during the evenings at the tavern after pulling out rhodis all day and then, in our loved up youth, we spent a
very happy time drifting around the many walks and sights of this tiny island.
But our best time was with our kids (no TV or playstation but sadly mobiles do work out there) watching puffins, walking amongst the rocks and having them drag us off in to the Marisco Tavern which greeted them in a truly friendly manner.
The Tavern boasts numerous books and games to amuse
all ages, is welcoming at all hours and there is usually a troubadour or two (with instruments on hand) to provide an up-market karaoke element. Once, we even had a unicycle display around the whole tavern, weaving his way amongst the drinkers and diners. This is an island that provides both peace and quiet when required but also many opportunities for socialising.
We would have no hesitation in going back because, having been on many occasions, it's been a novelty every time. Oh! and the tavern male loo has one of the best views in the whole of the country!
Authentic clotted cream ice cream. Produced by small local family business dating back to the mid 1930s. Only serve vanilla from the vans (no diversification necessary). Vans can be found on Ilfracombe Seafront, Bideford Quay, Appledore Quay, Torrington Commons, and Westward Ho! Seafront. Fantastic!
Hockings Dairy Cream Ices
The Icecream Factory
Kingsley Avenue
Appledore
EX39 1PF
Quite possibly the richest, tastiest ice cream in the UK. Hocking's make vanilla ice cream to a generations old family recipe, believed to include clotted cream.
I was first introduced to it by my former grandfather-in-law who, so beloved of this local delicacy, would offer to get you some, only to return with a teaspoons-worth in a bowl. He, nor I, never tired of this joke.
At a time of nanny-state dictats, treat yourself to an indulgent bowl of Hocking's ice cream. And to be really naughty, eat it like the north Devonians do, with a splodge of clotted cream on top.
It can only be bought from the company's vans at the following locations - Ilfracombe Seafront, Bideford Quay, Appledore Quay, Torrington Commons and Westward Ho! Seafront - and I'm pretty sure they're only there through the summer months.
Lundy is a Norse word meaning puffin, so ‘Puffin Island’ gives the game away somewhat. There are still puffins there, and this is what many people who visit the island are hoping to see, though in truth most tourists would be ill-equipped to do so, as the little birds don’t just stroll around on the footpaths, preferring instead to hide away on the extremely high, sheer cliff-sides that define the island.
On arrival, most likely via the MS Oldenburg that sails regularly from Ilfracombe and Bideford (the alternative being a rather more ostentatious helicopter), you‘ll find a 3.5 mile long and 0.5 mile wide granite outcrop residing in the Bristol Channel about 11 miles from the mainland. It rises some 400 feet, and when the heather’s in bloom, it makes a particularly pretty sight as you approach the small harbour at the bottom of the eastern cliff. There’s only one path up the cliff-side, which most people walk (it’s about a mile) though you can get transport if you need it. As a general rule though, there are no cars (or anything that you could call a proper road) on the island.
On the way up you’ll see a Regency style house, the residence of a former owner of the island, but this is hardly typical of the buildings that make up the small village that you’ll discover once you’ve reached the cliff-top. Inevitably, they’re mostly small, granite affairs that house the island’s 19 permanent inhabitants. There’s also one shop, a Victorian era church and, of course, a pub, the Marisco tavern, named after a former 12th Century ruler of the island, William de Marisco. Outside the village, on the south eastern corner, is a medieval castle that was built by Henry III.
The tranquillity of the island is legendary, as are the sea views and the opportunities for various forms of wildlife study – from bird watching to underwater exploration. I was very surprised to spot some wild deer in the middle of the island, but they’re very shy despite their limited territory. Lundy is also a gift for artists and photographers so don’t forget to take your gear.
Apart from day tripping, there is accommodation of various types on the island if you fancy a real retreat from modern life. No cars, no high street franchises, no office buildings, and no street lights – you can actually see the stars at night while listening to the roar of the Atlantic on the rocks below.
The MS Oldenburg runs regularly from Ilfracombe and Bideford during Spring - Autumn months.
Four tunnels carved through the cliffs lead to a secluded beach and tidal pool. Very safe for children and bliss for adults over the crowded summer. Snacks available from the cafe so you can make a whole day of it.
Open all year. July and August, 9am-7pm; the rest of year, 10am-5pm or 6pm;
Entrance fee: £1.75 for adults and £1.25 for children.
We recently stayed at Westwood House in Ilfracombe, North Devon. We found it by accident as it hasn't been open very long, but we were glad we did. Although it's classed a B&B, it's more like a small boutique hotel. The £75 room we stayed in was beautifully decorated and the bed was very comfortable. The room came equipped with a widescreen TV and DVD player so we were able to enjoy a film after our night out at Damien Hirst's restaurant. After a great nights sleep we were treated to an organic breakfast which was delicious and set us up for the day of walking ahead. We've stayed in lots of good B&Bs and hotels over the years but credit where it's due, this is probably the best to date.
Westwood
Torrs Park
Ilfracombe
North Devon
EX34 8AZ
01271 867443
www.west-wood.co.uk
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