The best bit is the Tearoom at Ettrick Bay, a couple of miles north of Rothesay. This is a semi-derelict shed which desperately needs a lick of paint, but serves the most incredible home cooking including lemon meringue pie with the top four inches high and soup to keep you going for a week.

www.isle-of-bute.org.uk/ettrickbay/

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A faded echo of its palmy days when it had 30 thousand visitors a day, it’s now a haven for birdwatchers, walkers and those interested in vitrified forts, standing stones, Mount Stuart House, and peace and quiet.

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