A trip to Leeds would not be complete without a visit to Fuji Hiro. A small noodle bar based near the Merrion Centre. The exterior may not look impressive and the interior is simple to say the least, but once your food arrives you will realise there is no need for frills as the food speaks for itself. Mountains of noodles or giant soup bowls filled to the brim with fresh succulent chicken breast, garlic, chilli, ginger, you will not be disspapointed. And you will no doubt go away feeling like your clothing may have shrunk.

Merrion Centre, 45 Wade Lane, Leeds, LS2 8NJ
+44(0)113 243 9184
Nearest Station - Leeds City

Google map: tinyurl.com/yaf25aa

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Harewood is a fantastic place, with over 300 acres of immaculately and beautifully kept gardens and grounds for visitors to stroll through with their dogs, or romp wildly through the winding paths with their children or just sit and admire the Capability Brown fashioned landscape. This is all before you explore the architectural and artistic wonders of the house. The Lascelles family (the Earls of Harewood) have been avid collectors of fine art for over 250 years and most of it is on display for the public.

To keep the children amused there is a fantastic adventure playground, apparently spread over three acres - the kids love it, along with the bird garden, containing of all things penguins and flamingos.

Harewood's enduring appeal is its beauty, the wide range of experiences for young and old, all backed up with a magnificent events calendar.

Locals should take advantage of its membership - the Harewood card - which allows free entry throughout the year making it amazingly good value, the literature claims families can save upto £700 per annum on days out with the card!

Harewood House
Harewood, Leeds LS17 9LG
www.harewood.org
tel: 0113 218 10 10
Harewood House is 7 miles from Leeds and Harrogate, catch the number 36 bus, which drops outside the gate. Harewood lets you in half price with a valid bus ticket or if you are on a bicycle.

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From mid November, the Leeds Christkindelmarkt – set in the splendour of Millennium Square - offers a real alternative to the claustrophobic hustle and bustle of a pre-Christmas high street.

Lanes of garishly decorated wooden chalets stocked full of food, toys, clothes and trinkets provide alternative ideas for that last minute stocking filler. From German sausage and honey to hand crafted wind chimes and children’s toys, the market is an ideal haven for those looking for something a little bit kooky.

It’s at night, however, when the market really comes to life. The twinkling lights, the sound of the vintage carousel and the smell of frankfurters are a delight to the senses, that can’t help but put you in a festive mood.

For a real taste of Germany, end your day in the bierkeller where Oompah bands entertain a lively crowd with their own interpretations of songs written by Hamburg’s adopted sons, The Beatles.

Millennium Square, Leeds

Google map: tinyurl.com/y8q85ok

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With comfy sofas, friendly staff and a decadent line in chocolate cake, Kadas in Leeds is definitely a great choice for the late night reveller. Still going strong, after many years in the city, offering Middle Eastern fusion food and a relaxed vibe, Kadas enables the post pub/club go-ers to keep the party going in a less frenetic way. This little piece of Arabian heaven conveniently lives on Crown Street in the centre of the city and stays open until 6am on Friday and Saturday nights. Well worth checking out in the wee hours - there's nothing like a slice of their chocolate or carrot cake to sooth the soul before the trek home after a night out.

3-5 Crown Street, Leeds, LS2 LS2 7DA, 0113 243 3422

Google map: tinyurl.com/yad7pk8

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Not only is Hansa's one of the finest Indian restaurants in Leeds (indeed, restaurant of any kind), it is also entirely vegetarian - as much Indian cuisine traditionally is, or in Britain, was at least. The finest ingredients, lovingly prepared, go into making subtle, complex Gujarati dishes, whose flavours can all be made out even in the hottest of dishes. The staff - including Hansa herself - are extremely helpful and friendly, eager to explain the dishes to you, if you need any help after the thorough and interesting menu. A real treasure.

72-74 North St, Leeds, LS2 7PN - a fifteen minute walk from Leeds City Station, or ten from the bus station.

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The best scheduled scenic train journey in Yorkshire, and probably England, is the Settle-Carlisle route over the massive but elegant Ribble Viaduct. Setting off from Leeds, the gritty mill towns unfold as the hills rise up, a prelude to the drama of Yorkshires Three Peaks and the panoramic views that motorists, and even walkers, never get. Ingleborough, Pen-y-ghent and finally the very flanks of Great Whernside fill the windows, making an assault on one of them almost irresistable followed by a yorkshire pint at a village pub, perhaps the welcoming Crown at Horton.

Ribblehead, Northern rail on the Leeds Carlisle line, Horton-in-Ribblesdale or Ribblehead for a walk

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Alongside all the usual high street culprits, Leeds' compact city centre has a fantastic range of independent boutiques that really set it apart from many other shopping destinations. While long-time bastion of alternative and independent retailing, the Corn Exchange, is now being transformed into a luxury food emporium (there are a clutch of tempting little foodie stores in the intimate basement level), the surrounding streets of the Exchange Quarter are thriving. Blue Rinse, on Call Lane, is an old stalwart of Leeds retail and continues to be one of the best, and most reasonably priced vintage shops in the area. Newcomer Best Vintage, round the corner on New Market St really does what it says on the packet, with high quality and interesting pieces. Next door is fantastic organic minimarket Out of this World, and one of England's four fabulous Pop Boutiques selling bargain priced retro-style fashions (both new and vintage) is diagonally opposite on Central Road. Along Duncan St-Boar Lane from the Corn Exchange are several independent stores including ever popular streetwear shop Ace and poster/wall art mecca Off the Wall, amongst others. While down Lower Briggate is one of the city's biggest vintage emporia, Ryan Vintage, crammed to the ceilings with one-off finds.

Further up Briggate, opposite the opulence of the Victoria Quarter, are Queen's and Thornton's Arcades. They might not be as spectacular as their designer-filled counterparts across the street, but are still lovely examples of Victorian architecture offering rain-free environments in which to explore a wealth of mainly independent shops (and several high-end hair salons). Accent, award-winning White Label Clothing, Sugar Lump and No15 Boutique are amongst the many treasures to be had here. A personal favourite - though not really a shop - is Pickle & Potter, a delicatessen and café that not only offers a huge and mouth-watering selection of sandwich fillings but is home to what many - myself included - hold to be not only Leeds' but the world's best chocolate brownies.

If you tire of the hustle and bustle of the city centre but aren't quite done scouring the indie boutiques, a twenty minute walk (or 5-10 minute bus) journey away up Woodhouse Lane is Hyde Park Corner. Here you will find a small but brilliant clutch of stores and eateries, including vintage couture and evening wear at the Final Curtain, and best of all, the temple of vintage and antique treasures that is Retro Boutique. Two floors of clothes, jewellery, furniture, antiques and anything else you can imagine, immaculately laid out so that it ressembles something between a home you wish was yours and Aladdin's Cave, Retro Boutique is perhaps the zenith of Leeds' independent shopping experience, yet somehow is never as crowded as you might imagine.

All over Leeds city centre, particularly around the Corn Exchange (Call Lane) and Queen's and Thornton's Arcades, between Briggate and Lands Lane; Hyde Park Corner is at Woodhouse Lane/Headingley Lane, a mile and a half north-west of the city centre. Bus no1, 28, 95, 96, 97.

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The Victoria Quarter is, quite simply, probably the most beautiful shopping area in the whole of the United Kingdom. It is only small, but it crams almost one hundred stores into its stunning arcades and elegant King Edward Street frontage. The North's premier luxury shopping destination, the Victoria Quarter is home to designer boutiques from Vivienne Westwood, Paul Smith and Louis Vuitton alongside exclusive branches of stores like Arrogant Cat not found elsewhere outside of London, as well as jewellers, chocolatiers, popular high-end chains such as Reiss and All Saints, and famously, the first Harvey Nichols outside London. If the fantastic range of shops isn't enough to tempt you, the gorgeous architecture makes the Victoria Quarter unique. County Arcade is a sumptuous Victorian feast for the eyes in gilt and marble, while the airy atrium of Queen Victoria Arcade is home to the largest stained-glass ceiling in Europe. Immaculate shop fronts and striking window displays lend further elegance to the Quarter. Sheltered from the northern weather, you can indulge yourself year-round in indoor retail therapy without the soulless clone atmosphere of modern shopping malls. And there are a clutch of fantastic cafés located in the centre for when it all gets too much. It really is luxury retail heaven and makes a trip to Leeds a must for any shopper all by itself.

Victoria Quarter, between Briggate and Vicar Lane in Leeds City Centre. A ten minute walk from train and bus stations.

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One of the largest urban parks in Europe, the verdant expanses of Roundhay Park offers a huge range of different surroundings, all of which are a world away from the bustle of the city centre, only five miles away. Fields, forests, lakes and golf courses cover much of the parkland, but there are also many beautifully landscaped gardens, especially on the other side of Princes Avenue from the park proper. Canal Gardens with its crocus fields, scented borders and water features, is a great place to stop and pause. Next to it is Tropical World, a menagerie of rare animal and plant species in simulated habitats ranging from desert to Amazonian rainforest - always popular with children. The Roundhay Fox pub, situated in the middle of the park, is a lovely traditional pub with fantastic outdoor terrace, and there is a good range of dining options and shops both in the centre of Roundhay, and at the southern end of the park in Oakwood. There are also frequent events in the park in summer, particularly the ever-popular Indian delights of the Leeds Mela.

Roundhay Park, Princes Avenue, Roundhay, Leeds, LS8. Bus no2 or 13 from the city centre (New Briggate/Vicar Lane).

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A lively little neighbourhood three miles north of the city centre, Chapel Allerton is about as close to a continental drinking and dining experience as you'll get in the north of England and is home to a clutch of the region's finest restaurants. Clustered around the junction of Stainbeck Lane and Harrogate Road, Chapel Allerton may not be possessed of the beauty of a French square or Italian piazza but come on a summer's evening and find a lively, friendly buzz without the sense of underlying tension and atmosphere of total drunkeness that most of Britain's drinking districts entail. The restaurants and bars spill out onto the pavements, many with heated or covered seating areas, nestling in between a range of small independent shops that make a daytime trip a pleasant diversion from the bustle of central Leeds. Some of Chapel Allerton's more renowned restaurants include the much-lauded Sukhothai, held by many to be one of the country's finest Thai restaurants, a branch of Leeds' greek Olive Tree restaurant, Sami's North African cuisine, and two Casa Mias, the original, cheaper, trattoria-style eatery with a range of light Italian meals and sumptuous desserts and Casa Mia Grande, a high-end, high-quality Italian dining establishment that is among Leeds' best restaurants. As for drinking, traditional pubs like the Regent compete for your custom with quirky bars like Further North and quality cocktails at the Hub, Zed and Angels Share, amongst many others

Chapel Allerton, north Leeds, take the no2 or 3 bus from various points in the city centre.

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Dough is a restaurant in the leafy suburbs of Leeds. It has gone from strength to strength and is now considered among many Leeds diners to be one of the best restaurants in the county! It's small and intimate but this Parisian style bistro creates a fantastic atmosphere. The service is superb and laid-back. The food, however, is what really does the talking, with menus that change on every visit, food sourced only from the local region - apparently the chef has his own allotment that he uses produce from! As well as the quality of the food, the fact they allow customers to 'bring their own' while remaining fully licensed is a revelation in the industry, proving that not all businesses are just out to make a quick buck!

Address is 293 Spen Lane, Headingley, Leeds, LS16 5BD. Tel 0113 2787255. E-mail doughbistro@yahoo.co.uk. Nearest station is Headingley I presume.

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Stunning country house, lake and parklands with fascinating sculptures by Henry Moore.

Just off the M1 Motorway

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This is Roundhay/Harehill's up and coming restaurant, and extremely good value. The secret is out, because these days Arti is getting a full house and is popular with white and Asian customers alike.

Arti offers some south Indian fare such as dhosa and idli as well as the more standard Indian dishes; warning - the starters are huge and really delicious.

Arti started his restaurant a couple of years back, is very friendly, keen to find out what the customer thinks. This boy's going places! It's a hard act to follow - we've moved to a different city and still looking for an Arti replacement.

Arti Restaurant
285-287 Roundhay Road
Leeds LS8 4HS

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The Sheesh Mahal on Kirkstall Road always manages to amaze me with both the quality of the food and service on offer. Azram, the owner, is always serving and chatting with his regulars, and nothing is too much trouble for him, whether it is explaining the history behind dishes on the menu, or providing cake and a free bottle of wine for a friend's birthday.

There are many very, very good curry houses in Leeds and Bradford, but the Sheesh manages to serve food that's up there with the best. The service always tips the scales in the Sheesh's direction though.

Key dishes to try include the prawn puri starter, and either the fish balti or sheesh gosht karahi with a side order of cauliflower and aubergine. I've tried most of the menu and have yet to have a bad meal there.

Kirkstall Road, Leeds
www.sheeshmahal.co.uk

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We had lunch at Plush last Thursday, our first visit. Friendly and welcoming staff, lovely food - fresh, well presented and full of flavour across all three courses - with a good bottle of Sauv Blanc.
All with prompt but unobtrusive service.

Seated by a tropical fish tank, which was entertaining. All for £50 - great value and well recommended.

10 York Place. Near Wellington Street and railway station.
LS1 2DS
0113 234 3344

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The fish is truly stunning, loads of well cooked chips, mushy peas are great as is the service. However, the batter is out of this world - crispy, and just flakes off the fish and tastes great (they use beef dripping as you always should!). If you're ever near Leeds, head for this place asap!

12-14 North Lane, Headingley, Leeds, West Yorkshire, LS6 3HE
Tel: 0113 2323344

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Cafe and takeaway. It is a proven fact that fish and chips are uneatable south of the Trent and west of the Pennines. Bryan's set out to be simply the best in West Riding, excelling where excellent was the norm. If you really want it (for they do cater for the less discriminating tastes) there is perfect cod. But exquisite haddock is the norm. With mushy peas, of course.

Headingley. Ask anyone, or follow your nose.

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Simply the best Thai restaurant in Leeds. Tucked away behind the impressive Town Hall (or City Hall, I always get them mixed up, basically the massive hall on Headrow).

Cheap with mains at less than a fiver and starters about £2. Friendly staff and a convivial atmosphere when it's full. Keeps funny opening hours though, its open through the day but closes at 10pm.

Worth popping into the Victoria Hotel just along the road afterwards for a swift one.

39 Great George Street, Leeds LS1 3BB, Tel: 0113 245 9224

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Punjabi Indian restaurant a little way out of town (about 1.5 miles) but worth making the effort for.

Staffed by possibly the smiliest gents I have ever seen or met. Not massive portions by some standards, its all about the flavours, which are consistently a notch above other curry houses around and about. Still a proper good feed though, and all at a belting price.

Raja's has almost a permanent place in the Leeds Good Food Guide.

There are many many other ethnic eateries along the same road (Roundhay Road) so it's worth a look if you're not bothered about Raja's, but there are no bars in the area (except for a well dodgy Irish bar).

If you crave booze give me a knock, theres always beer and wine in the fridge, and I live just round the corner from Raja's.

186 Roundhay Road
Leeds
LS8 5PL

0113 248 0411

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A really rather lovely bar, just out of town, but definitely worth the little walk. A relaxed atmosphere with massive battered sofas to fall into, and a mix n' match attitude to the rest of the furniture. Usually has a bit of an exhibition on the walls too. Definitely worth eating there too. Small but perfectly formed menu which never fails to taste absolutely gorgeous (lamb shank being my particular favourite at the moment), which can be eaten in the informal restaurant bit in the back of the bar whilst watching the chefs do their thing in the open kitchen.

Reasonably priced too. Separate daytime and evening menus.

Another excellent place to either start a night or just to have a few quiet bevvies in.

76-78 North St, Leeds, LS2 7PN 0113 295 6060

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