Alongside all the usual high street culprits, Leeds' compact city centre has a fantastic range of independent boutiques that really set it apart from many other shopping destinations. While long-time bastion of alternative and independent retailing, the Corn Exchange, is now being transformed into a luxury food emporium (there are a clutch of tempting little foodie stores in the intimate basement level), the surrounding streets of the Exchange Quarter are thriving. Blue Rinse, on Call Lane, is an old stalwart of Leeds retail and continues to be one of the best, and most reasonably priced vintage shops in the area. Newcomer Best Vintage, round the corner on New Market St really does what it says on the packet, with high quality and interesting pieces. Next door is fantastic organic minimarket Out of this World, and one of England's four fabulous Pop Boutiques selling bargain priced retro-style fashions (both new and vintage) is diagonally opposite on Central Road. Along Duncan St-Boar Lane from the Corn Exchange are several independent stores including ever popular streetwear shop Ace and poster/wall art mecca Off the Wall, amongst others. While down Lower Briggate is one of the city's biggest vintage emporia, Ryan Vintage, crammed to the ceilings with one-off finds.

Further up Briggate, opposite the opulence of the Victoria Quarter, are Queen's and Thornton's Arcades. They might not be as spectacular as their designer-filled counterparts across the street, but are still lovely examples of Victorian architecture offering rain-free environments in which to explore a wealth of mainly independent shops (and several high-end hair salons). Accent, award-winning White Label Clothing, Sugar Lump and No15 Boutique are amongst the many treasures to be had here. A personal favourite - though not really a shop - is Pickle & Potter, a delicatessen and café that not only offers a huge and mouth-watering selection of sandwich fillings but is home to what many - myself included - hold to be not only Leeds' but the world's best chocolate brownies.

If you tire of the hustle and bustle of the city centre but aren't quite done scouring the indie boutiques, a twenty minute walk (or 5-10 minute bus) journey away up Woodhouse Lane is Hyde Park Corner. Here you will find a small but brilliant clutch of stores and eateries, including vintage couture and evening wear at the Final Curtain, and best of all, the temple of vintage and antique treasures that is Retro Boutique. Two floors of clothes, jewellery, furniture, antiques and anything else you can imagine, immaculately laid out so that it ressembles something between a home you wish was yours and Aladdin's Cave, Retro Boutique is perhaps the zenith of Leeds' independent shopping experience, yet somehow is never as crowded as you might imagine.

All over Leeds city centre, particularly around the Corn Exchange (Call Lane) and Queen's and Thornton's Arcades, between Briggate and Lands Lane; Hyde Park Corner is at Woodhouse Lane/Headingley Lane, a mile and a half north-west of the city centre. Bus no1, 28, 95, 96, 97.

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One of the largest urban parks in Europe, the verdant expanses of Roundhay Park offers a huge range of different surroundings, all of which are a world away from the bustle of the city centre, only five miles away. Fields, forests, lakes and golf courses cover much of the parkland, but there are also many beautifully landscaped gardens, especially on the other side of Princes Avenue from the park proper. Canal Gardens with its crocus fields, scented borders and water features, is a great place to stop and pause. Next to it is Tropical World, a menagerie of rare animal and plant species in simulated habitats ranging from desert to Amazonian rainforest - always popular with children. The Roundhay Fox pub, situated in the middle of the park, is a lovely traditional pub with fantastic outdoor terrace, and there is a good range of dining options and shops both in the centre of Roundhay, and at the southern end of the park in Oakwood. There are also frequent events in the park in summer, particularly the ever-popular Indian delights of the Leeds Mela.

Roundhay Park, Princes Avenue, Roundhay, Leeds, LS8. Bus no2 or 13 from the city centre (New Briggate/Vicar Lane).

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We had lunch at Plush last Thursday, our first visit. Friendly and welcoming staff, lovely food - fresh, well presented and full of flavour across all three courses - with a good bottle of Sauv Blanc.
All with prompt but unobtrusive service.

Seated by a tropical fish tank, which was entertaining. All for £50 - great value and well recommended.

10 York Place. Near Wellington Street and railway station.
LS1 2DS
0113 234 3344

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This is one of the YHA's first Green Beacon eco-friendly hostels. It's a great place to go cycling across the North York Moors.

Old School, Lockton, Pickering, North Yorkshire YO18 7PY;
tel: 0870 770 5938;
email: lockton@yha.org.uk;
www.yha.org.uk/hostel/hostelpages/257.html

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