Don leathers and leave behind the elegant, quintessential Englishness of Chester (built to keep the Welsh out), gradually ascend and ride the switchback of the dramatic Horseshoe Pass, an early natural rollercoaster, and glide (pausing awhile at the Ponderosa for refreshments) under the clouds into One Hundred Years of Solitude, or the Welsh Dee Valley, at Llangollen overlooked by the brooding magnificence of Castell Dinas Bran

Go in July and catch the International Eisteddfod, the epicentre of grass roots world music for a week. This year, acts range from Joan Baez to Jose Carreras but the true stars are from Iraq, China and the west coast of Africa!

The best Welsh brewed real ales are at Gales in the high street and for Welsh contemporary "tapas", try the stunningly located Cornmill on the banks of the swirling Dee.

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I had a holiday in this area and it was really unfriendly, nothing to do but go to chip shops, and get abused by all the inhabitants. Same went everywhere else we went in north Wales.

Dont try

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The stretch of canal around Llangollen is one of the most scenic anywhere. Just follow the towpath and you will eventually find yourself walking on air, crossing Thomas Telford's majestic Pontcysyllte aqueduct 126 feet above the valley below. Even scarier on a boat - there's no handrail that side!

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