Don leathers and leave behind the elegant, quintessential Englishness of Chester (built to keep the Welsh out), gradually ascend and ride the switchback of the dramatic Horseshoe Pass, an early natural rollercoaster, and glide (pausing awhile at the Ponderosa for refreshments) under the clouds into One Hundred Years of Solitude, or the Welsh Dee Valley, at Llangollen overlooked by the brooding magnificence of Castell Dinas Bran

Go in July and catch the International Eisteddfod, the epicentre of grass roots world music for a week. This year, acts range from Joan Baez to Jose Carreras but the true stars are from Iraq, China and the west coast of Africa!

The best Welsh brewed real ales are at Gales in the high street and for Welsh contemporary "tapas", try the stunningly located Cornmill on the banks of the swirling Dee.

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