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The world in one city

Tower Bridge at dusk


"London is a roost for every bird," Benjamin Disraeli.

We all have our own London. It might be among the sharp suits and smart eateries of Notting Hill, the arty, casual types of Hackney or Hoxton or perhaps the greenery and relative calm of suburbs like Hampstead or Greenwich. Wherever it is, it is hard to escape the conclusion that just now London is a city at the top of its game. It is, as it has for hundreds of years, growing, re-stocking its population, revitalising its landscape, renewing its confidence.

The people are its greatest resource. "The World In One City" was the slogan that won London the right to stage the 2012 Olympic Games. For once, you can believe the hype.

Once you have seen the Bangladeshis in Brick Lane (also known as "Banglatown"), strolled down Brixton market with its English, African and West Indian influences, or eaten Turkish food in Stoke Newington, there are still the South Africans and Australians to visit in their new enclaves in east London, and the grand Sikh temples in Stratford and Neasden. See how each claims their territory without ruining the fabric of the city.

Witness the architecture of the royal palaces and Trafalgar Square (now free of dive-bombing pigeons), but also the modernity of the cigar-shaped Swiss Re building (dubbed the Gherkin) in the City, with City Hall (often compared to a headlamp) and Tate Modern, the reclaimed pumping station turned modern art house, on the south side of the River Thames. And then, of course, there is the river itself: an unpredictable, evolving marvel, much like the city itself.
Best view
St Paul's Cathedral
The view of St Paul's Cathedral at dusk from the Millennium Bridge outside Tate Modern. The clean lines and high-tech modernity of the 330 metre steel bridge offer a dramatic, light-enhanced view of Wren's cathedral.

Tube: St Paul's, Southwark

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Best thing to do for free
Wander around Covent Garden
The shops, street performers and cafes are always a treat for the eye, and within a few hundred yards there's also the newly-refurbished Royal Opera House with its stunning glass facade, the lightweight but fun theatre museum and the peace and quiet of St Paul's church.

Tube: Covent Garden

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Where to watch the world go by
Old Compton Street, Soho
The epicentre of London's gay community. Take a seat at a pavement cafe and enjoy the bustle as the worlds of arty creatives, salt of the earth locals and suited business types collide.

Tube: Leicester Square, Piccadilly Circus

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Nighttime hangout
The Jazz Cafe
For drinkers, diners and dancers alike, for years the Jazz Cafe has provided a platform for new talent as well as more established stars.

5 Parkway, Camden Town; Tube: Camden Town; www.jazzcafe.co.uk/

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Cultural highlight
The Museum of Migration
The first museum to celebrate diversity, and referred to by Michael Palin as "one of the most remarkable places in London," this run-down home in the East end was once the home of a Huguenot master silk weaver and hides a rare surviving synagogue built over its garden. Check the website for details of the occasional public open days.

19 Princelet Street, Spitalfields; Tube: Liverpool Street, Aldgate, Aldgate East; www.19princeletstreet.org.uk/

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Bring back
Tea
Loose tea from Fortnum and Mason, where you can buy over 100 different blends. Prices from £5.75.

181 Piccadilly, W1; Tel: 0207 734 8040; Tube: Piccadilly Circus, Green Park; www.fortnumandmason.com/

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Leave there
Royal memorabilia
Avoid anything (posters, T-shirts, trinkets) featuring a London bus or a member of the Royal Family.

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Time for love
The Rose Garden at Regents Park
Londoners are spoilt for choice when it comes to open spaces, but for many Regents Park is the jewel in the crown. Where better to pass a romantic summer day than in the finest garden in London dedicated to the symbol of romance?

Tube: Regents Park, Baker Street

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Best-kept secret (till now)
Cheap food
Cheap foodie delicacies can be snapped up at Borough Market at 3pm, an hour before closing.

Southwark Street, SE1; Tube: London Bridge; www.boroughmarket.org.uk/

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The thing to eat
Pizza and ice cream from Harrods
Of course you don't have to stop there. The legendary food hall offers an absurd variety of food to suit everyone from gourmets to guzzlers. Also worthy of note are the Neuhaus chocolate counter and the pastries.

87-135 Brompton Road, Knightsbridge, SW1; Tube: Knightsbridge; Tel: 020 7730 1234; www.harrods.com/

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Green space
Parks
Take your pick of Greenwich Park, Hampstead Heath, Hyde Park, Richmond Park or Kew Gardens.

www.royalparks.gov.uk/

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Best ride
Riverboats
The Damien Hirst designed, polka-dotted riverboats connecting the Tate Gallery and Tate Modern.

www.tate.org.uk/

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Keep the kids happy
Science Museum
The basement at the Science Museum is great for kids. Experiments and puzzles that make up a world of edutainment.

Exhibition Road, SW7; Tel: 0870 870 4868; Tube: South Kensington; www.sciencemuseum.org.uk/

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Escape the crowds
City of London
For peace and quiet, go into the City of London at weekends or wander around the botanical splendour of Kew Gardens.

Kew Gardens, Richmond, Surrey, TW9 3AB; Tube: Kew Gardens; www.rbgkew.org.uk/

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The film to see before I go
Wonderland
Michael Winterbottom's tale, released in 2000, focuses on a south London family, but the city itself is the star.

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... and the novel to read
London Calling
Sukhdev Sandhu's acclaimed study of the city as seen through the lens of black and Asian writers.

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Where to eat (budget)
Mangal
Turkish cafe with open charcoal grill kebabs and salads to die for, all for between £4 and £10 a head.

10 Arcola Street, Dalston, London E8; Tel: 0207 275 8981; BR station: Dalston Kingsland; www.mangal1.com/

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Where to eat (moderate)
Mela
Award-winning Indian food, friendly waiters and a lively atmosphere. £25 per head.

152-156 Shaftsbury Avenue, WC2; Tel: 0871 332 0581; Tube: Tottenham Court Rd; www.melarestaurant.co.uk/

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Where to eat (posh)
Hakkasan
High-class Chinese food, a performing cocktail waiter and the beautiful people. Average price £60.

8 Hanway Avenue, W1T 1HF; Tube: Tottenham Court Rd; Tel: 0207 927 7000

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Where to stay (budget)
Astor's Victoria Hotel
60 beds close to Tate Britain and Westminster Abbey. Shared dormitories from £16.50. Double and twin rooms for £50 a night.

71 Belgrave Road, London, SW1V 2BG; Tel: 0207 834 3077; Tube: Pimlico, Victoria; www.astorhostels.com/

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Where to stay (moderate)
The Basil Street Hotel
Quiet hotel in the city centre owned by the same family for three generations. Single en suite rooms from £117 per night. Double en suite from £150 per night.

8 Basil Street, Knightsbridge, London, SW1 1AH; Tel: 0207 581 3311; Tube: Knightsbridge; www.thebasil.com/

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Where to stay (posh)
St Martin's Lane
The fruit of collaboration between Ian Schrager and Philippe Starck, with stunning views of the city. Double en-suite: prices from £220 (as of August 10).

45 St Martin's Lane, London, WC2N 4HX; Tel: 0207 300 5500; Tube: Leicester Square; www.morganshotelgroup.com/

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Find out what's on
Time Out
Time Out, The Guide (comes with the Guardian every Saturday), London Tonight, the Evening Standard's What's On pages.

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Get there from the airport
Airport transfer: Train
Heathrow: The Heathrow Express (www.heathrowexpress.com) is a regular and quick shuttle service into Paddington Station, and at £13 is fairly reasonable. If you are travelling in a group of four or more, however, you may find that a taxi will be a more reasonable option. Travelling by tube is a cheap alternative, but with current disruption to the service (until work on the new terminal is finished in September 2006) it may prove far from cheerful.

Gatwick: Two services run directly from Gatwick into the centre of London. The Gatwick Express is a non-stop train into Victoria Station, taking only 30 minutes. Unfortunately at £20 for a single ticket the cost is fairly high. Check the website (www.gatwickexpress.co.uk) for various reductions and offers. Cheaper but slower is the Thameslink service which takes 50 minutes to reach King's Cross Station.

Stansted: Because Stansted is well beyond the outskirts of London, the train is the most sensible option for anyone with more sense than money. The Stansted Express is a regular service running direct to Liverpool Street in 45 minutes. See www.stanstedexpress.com for fares.

www.baa.co.uk

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