My partner, baby and I booked a cottage in Lynmouth for a mid-winter break, returning after zooming down here on a scooter for our first date. In December it was more than dead; it was buried and mummified. The furnicular railway linking Lynmouth and Lynton was closed, and although there were visitors wandering during the day wrapped up against the elements, the walks along Watersmeet were beautiful and the beach was suitably blowsy and slate-grey, after dark the only sound you could hear was the wind whistling through the empty streets and the shutters of the closed fish and chip shop and cafes clanging in the distance. Sadly, this isn't so much a village now as a museum piece; there was nowhere to buy a pint of milk or even a newspaper and of the three pubs and bars open there was only one we could take our baby into for dinner and that was just into the empty dining area, not the warm and cosy bar.

If you want to stay here in the winter I would recommend staying up the hill in Lynton, where there were human beings visible after 4pm, open shops to buy food and provisions, a greater selection of eateries and when we visited, a great Christmas shopping festival. We couldn't fault our little cottage on Watersmeet road, but next time we will be visiting Lynmouth for a trip to in the day and making Lynton our base.

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