Simply the place to get the most fantastic fresh fish and seafood, Malliag is a proper fishing port rather than a tourist destination. Most people arrive there and stay only briefly on their way to Skye, Rhum or Knoydart but the excellence of the food, served in a harbourside setting, is such that it is worth organising an overnight stop on your way to these places. The service is helpful, friendly and unpretentious and the helpings more than generous.

Right on the harbour near the ferry terminal.

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The most thrilling way to do Knoydart, Britain’s last wilderness and unreachable by road, is to take a speedboat (seafari.co.uk) from Mallaig into Loch Hourn (Loch Hell!). It can’t dock anywhere so you just leap off onto shoreline rocks. Hike up Ladhar Bheinn, arguably the finest mountain on the mainland, with staggering views over the “rough bounds”. Descend southwards to Inverie and hit the legendary and often riotous Old Forge for a heather ale and a smokehouse platter. Anyone who sneers at Scottish food hasn’t eaten here. Had one of the best weekends of my life here. Dorms at the nearby Bunkhouse, £14 per person.

www.seafari.co.uk

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For decades Rum was 'the forbidden island' but now it's an easy ferry ride from Mallaig. But it's still a place for the intrepid, with serious hill walking and ferocious midges in summer.

The bizarre Edwardian sandstone castle built by eccentric Lancastrian cotton millionaire Sir George Bullough overlooks Loch Scresort where the ferry docks. There are guided tours, and there's a useful hostel in the former servants' quarters. The tiny population (c 25) is composed mainly of employees of the island's present owners, Scottish Natural Heritage.

Calmac ferry from Mallaig, or day trips from Arisaig.

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