The most thrilling way to do Knoydart, Britain’s last wilderness and unreachable by road, is to take a speedboat (seafari.co.uk) from Mallaig into Loch Hourn (Loch Hell!). It can’t dock anywhere so you just leap off onto shoreline rocks. Hike up Ladhar Bheinn, arguably the finest mountain on the mainland, with staggering views over the “rough bounds”. Descend southwards to Inverie and hit the legendary and often riotous Old Forge for a heather ale and a smokehouse platter. Anyone who sneers at Scottish food hasn’t eaten here. Had one of the best weekends of my life here. Dorms at the nearby Bunkhouse, £14 per person.

www.seafari.co.uk

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